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cpaquot
Dec 14, 2010, 11:59 PM
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Is it fine to climb at riverside quarry during or right after it rained?
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alpinismo_flujo
Dec 15, 2010, 12:08 AM
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Is it sandstone.....I've actually never been out there but I know it couldn't be..
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cpaquot
Dec 15, 2010, 1:28 AM
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umm some people seem to say it's granite over there.
anyways, I'm interested in knowing if the rock is steep enough that it stays dry or if any seepage is going on, etc.
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sshiflett
Dec 15, 2010, 3:32 AM
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Ya, the quarry is granite. I've climbed the day after rain many times, and it's fine. There are parts of the wall that could be climbed if it's raining lightly, but if it gets raining too hard then the water runs off the top of the hill and makes most route really wet.
Hope this helps
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alpinismo_flujo
Dec 15, 2010, 3:54 PM
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How crowded does it get there now? I've always looked at it from Rubidoux but never took the time to go see what was up. I guess I just stuck to what I heard many years ago "chossy and not worth it", but that was long before all the bolting.
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sshiflett
Dec 15, 2010, 4:08 PM
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It is WELL worth the trip. The majority of the routes are 5.11 and harder, with a huge selection for the 5.12 climber. The routes are highly featured and most are very long (you need at least a 60m to do a lot of them).
As far as the choss factor......well it's a quarry. If you stay on the more popular routes there tends to be much less or no loose blocks. You can get into trouble if you get off route or try to traverse between routes as these areas have not been cleaned as well. Also, just watch for X's on certain holds. The locals are pretty good about marking loose holds with an X. I've been climbing there for about a year and a half, and I've not kicked off anything larger than a golf ball.
Weekend days can get sort of crowded, especially on the few 5.10 climbs. During the week, or if you can climb in the 5.11+ range there is plenty of room, and you won't be waiting around
(This post was edited by sshiflett on Dec 15, 2010, 4:09 PM)
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cpaquot
Dec 22, 2010, 6:19 AM
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Sounds great! I will be there on Tuesday and Wednesday (next week), I hope the crag will be completely dry :) Do you know if it'll get crowded? Since it's a holiday break for most people...
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sshiflett
Dec 22, 2010, 8:02 PM
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You'll have fun. Even being a holiday it should be fine. The 5.10 warm ups may be hard to get on, but like I said, if you can climb 5.11+ and harder you won't ever need to wait for a climb.
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todd_climberinla
Dec 23, 2010, 6:37 PM
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Hey --
If anyone goes out there to climb in the next few days, please tell us about the conditions of the wall.
Last year, after a week of heavy rain in January, it took more than a week for most routes to dry up and some routes continued to seep for months! Certain routes tend to harbor internal waterfalls that drip for months (like the area around Natural Selection and Tangerine Dream).
In any case, please post a report about the cliff when you have a moment.
Thanks!
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