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calpolyclimber
Dec 20, 2002, 5:53 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Do most of you guys use shoulder length slings (doubled) or regualar quickdraws? I have been trad climbing with a friends rack for some time now, and its time to put together my own. He had me using mostly quickdraws, but taking along a few shoulder length slings to use where needed. Just wondering what your thoughts are about this. I bought 6 of the Neutrino's, and I was thinking of using those on the rope end of the runner "draw". Sound like a good idea? What biner would you suggest for the pro-clipping end? Thanks alot for any help here.
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flash5twelve
Dec 20, 2002, 7:04 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2002
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Quote:Do most of you guys use shoulder length slings (doubled) or regualar quickdraws?
When trad climbing I use a 12" open runner as a draw instead of a sport quickdraw. They are longer and more flexible than most quickdraws, so they are less likely to pull out a nut or tip a cam. Plus they are more versatile than a regular quickdraw. I like to hang them directly on my harness, but they hang too low for shorter partners. They will triple them up to get them out of the way, or hang them from a sling to raise them up. I'll usually carry about six of those, and a few shoulder length slings across my neck with a 'biner attached. I also carry a double length sling with the ends clipped together under the rest, so I can unclip it and pull it out without getting it caught with the others. A warning here: put a twist in the double sling before you clip it, or the carabiner can slide off without unclipping.
If you want to carry shoulder length slings on your harness (I sometimes carry them there), triple them instead of doubling them. To do this, hold the sling by the top 'biner. Take the bottom 'biner through the top 'biner and clip the two strands that are hanging. When you want to extend the sling, unclip any two strands and you're set. Is there a picture of this on the web?
Quote:I bought 6 of the Neutrino's, and I was thinking of using those on the rope end of the runner "draw". Sound like a good idea? What biner would you suggest for the pro-clipping end?
My trad draws and slings don't have a "rope" end or a "gear" end. Most of them are made up with random "D" carabiners -- that way there is no up or down. It's one less thing to worry about, and if you have a good enough stance to fiddle with gear and extend slings, having a 'biner that is easy to clip on the rope end isn't going to matter.
Hope this helps.
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tradklime
Dec 21, 2002, 12:29 AM
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I like the long petzl draws and shoulder length slings. I carry about half and half.
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vegastradguy
Dec 21, 2002, 12:43 AM
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climbing @ red rocks with lovely wandering routes has me carrying mostly shoulder length slings. reduces rope drag. I also carry a half dozen 12" slings...i've pretty much stopped carrying quick draws, they arent that useful on trad out here.
it really depends on where you climb. the moderates at red rocks (many of them, anwyay) wander all over the place, so you want long slings. But, if you're climbing a 1000' plum line crack, you wont need anything more than draws.
i would suggest a mix of all of the above, and check the topo before you climb for what you think you'll need. slings arent expensive, so keep a few of each.
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bigwallben
Dec 24, 2002, 6:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
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I find a mix of draws(8" open slings w/DMM biners) and shoulder length runners works out the best for me.
Ben
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stevematthys
Dec 24, 2002, 6:43 AM
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i use all shoulder legnth slings and longer, because the longer the sling is the less chance for rope drag and if there is not much rope drag it is easier to climb and there is less of a chance of your pro pulling out
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