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lrossi
Dec 17, 2010, 10:27 PM
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Never enough climbing, but ...
242 pitches over 41 days outside.
Probably the same number of days at the gym.
Mostly all sport climbing, but I did my first real trad leads this year. Just a handful.
I got my hardest redpoint yet, a 5.11c.
And the year isn't over yet.
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gamehendge
Dec 17, 2010, 11:55 PM
Post #52 of 101
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After several years of being a weekend warrior, I finally broke into the solid .12s including an onsight of a .12a, redpointng several others, and currently projecting a .12d (1 fall last go) in Red Rocks. Also starting to get into V8's.
(This post was edited by gamehendge on Dec 18, 2010, 12:07 AM)
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coastal_climber
Dec 18, 2010, 12:01 AM
Post #53 of 101
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gamehendge wrote: After several years of being a weekend warriror, I finally broke into the solid .12s including an onsight of a .12a, redpointng several others, and projecting a .12d (1 fall last go) in Red Rocks.
Umm....
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gamehendge
Dec 18, 2010, 12:14 AM
Post #54 of 101
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coastal_climber wrote: gamehendge wrote: After several years of being a weekend warriror, I finally broke into the solid .12s including an onsight of a .12a, redpointng several others, and projecting a .12d (1 fall last go) in Red Rocks.Umm....
Yeah, I'm aware that RR is soft but most of the .12s I've done (including the onsight) was not @ RR. I'm just saying that I'm projecting a very popular .12d there now which probably more of a .12b/c anyways.
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potreroed
Dec 18, 2010, 1:02 AM
Post #55 of 101
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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The usual.
Clipped bolts and bolted new routes (and retro-bolted some old ones) in the Potrero Chico Winter, Spring and Fall. Trad climbing on fabulous rock in Wisconsin all Summer.
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brian_h
Dec 18, 2010, 3:05 AM
Post #56 of 101
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Registered: Aug 24, 2010
Posts: 59
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cracklover wrote: brianh - that's really inspirational. Thanks for sharing, and kudos on finding your passion, finding a way to share it with your wife, and shedding some old baggage that was dragging you down (smoking and soda). GO
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vegastradguy
Dec 18, 2010, 6:11 AM
Post #57 of 101
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Posts: 5919
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it's been a weird year for me- its my first focusing far more on sport than on trad, despite my moniker and leanings toward playing on gear. somewhere in my playing on the rock this past spring i decided i wanted to climb 5.12 on bolts and went for it having no idea how exactly to push the envelope, so i picked a project (Fear and Loathing, .12a) and worked it...and worked it, and worked it until i injured myself and ended up taking a month off.
getting back into things, i worked it again, but lost interest after one of many burns, went over to another crag and fired my first .12a on my second go, and less than a month later, my second .12a went (but not fear and loathing) and again i injured myself...*sigh*
a good summer was had, laid up injured, i spent a fair bit of time in the PNW playing on moderate trad and sending harder than i expected in Squish (.11ish) before returning with a vengance to bolts this fall at the Red. No .12s there, but i got strong and FINALLY sent my original project a few weeks ago after my return to the desert and shortly after I managed to flash a .12a with running beta- an excellent day to be sure. definitely not a .12 climber, but i can finally get on them and get up them- getting them clean, of course, is still a project. but my goal was achieved, so yay.
# of Pitches: 400ish
# of routes: almost 300
hardest sport: .12a
Hardest trad: .11ish
oh, and i replaced somewhere around 119 bolts in Red Rock this year with the help of my partner Scott, and an extremely generous donation of bolts and supplies from the American Safe Climbing Association and support from the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Dec 18, 2010, 6:12 AM)
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nkane
Dec 18, 2010, 5:46 PM
Post #58 of 101
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Registered: Aug 12, 2006
Posts: 143
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Good year for me. Got plenty of climbing in, despite living in Manhattan and going to school.
Broke into Gunks 5.9 and easy Index 5.10, did plenty of cragging in the PNW and southern Utah, and maintained my mid-11 sport climbing.
Plus I got to do some fantastic alpine climbing in the Picket Range.
And I just found out that this time next year, I'll be living in San Francisco! So watch out Yosemite, here i come.
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nkane
Dec 18, 2010, 5:56 PM
Post #59 of 101
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Registered: Aug 12, 2006
Posts: 143
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2010 greatest hits:
Best Route: Crimson Chrysalis, RR
Best Pitch: Godzilla, Index
Biggest fall: Japanese Gardens, Index (25' or so, put a kink in the stem of a #3 c4)
Best individual move: tie between cutting my feet on Modern Times and the rad step-arounds at the end of Godzilla
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 18, 2010, 9:09 PM
Post #60 of 101
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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cracklover wrote: Sniff, it's because she has bigger boobs than me, isn't it? Sniff sniff. You said you didn't care about that. 
Hint: When a guy says he doesn't care about boobs.....HE'S LYING!
In reply to: Seriously, we gotta get you guys both out here next time. I had a great time climbing with you both this year, both in CO and NY, and - there's so much new stuff I need to show you that you'd really groove on, that I didn't know about when you were here earlier. GO
March again? I am trying to get Tiff to go this year. It all depends on her school.
Josh
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robdotcalm
Dec 18, 2010, 10:25 PM
Post #61 of 101
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nkane wrote: 2010 greatest hits: Best individual move: cutting my feet on Modern Times
That sounds interesting. What are the details?
r.c
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nkane
Dec 18, 2010, 10:53 PM
Post #62 of 101
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robdotcalm wrote: nkane wrote: 2010 greatest hits: Best individual move: cutting my feet on Modern Times That sounds interesting. What are the details? r.c
It looks like this:
Fantastic route - totally lives up to the hype.
But why didn't I wear my red shirt that day? Rookie move.
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phang_nga
Dec 19, 2010, 1:09 AM
Post #63 of 101
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Posts: 326
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I wish I had kept track of how many climbs I've done this year. All I can say is I've had a wonderful time and found a lot of cool places to climb.
I've made several trips to a small town park in Phang Nga Town (many bolted routes) and managed to figure out the moves to get up some routes that gave me way too much trouble initially. It really felt good figuring out how to get up this one particular route. Now I can blast past the crux without even thinking about it.
I started climbing again with one of my most long-term Thai friends and he's shown me a ton of bolted walls in Phang Nga Bay that I didn't know existed. He's a really good climber and has helped me improve my technique a lot.
In sum, I've climbed more this year than I've done in more than a decade. The most impressive (personally) thing is that I've moved up from 5.9 to 5.10d and I've done it by focusing on my footwork. That makes me very extra good about my climbing.
My next move is to stop drinking beer so I can lose my beer belly.  5.11 here I come! 
(This post was edited by phang_nga on Dec 19, 2010, 1:12 AM)
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currupt4130
Dec 20, 2010, 4:08 AM
Post #64 of 101
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515
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Had a pretty good year. Started in Hueco in January and had a blast bouldering (unusual for me). Sent some moderately hard stuff for myself.
Spent my last semester in school climbing every weekend that I could at the New River Gorge. Ticked off many long standing routes that I'd attempted and never sent.
Got a job working in Montana from August to October and in that time I was able to climb in:
-Wind River Range - Summitted Pingora and Block Tower. Had a great trip with some good people there.
-Ten Sleep Canyon - Sent my first 12, The Dope Shinto
-Climbed all over Montana and introduced some good friends and coworkers to more serious climbing. Climbed lots of limestone
Spent more time at the New River Gorge in the fall with good friends from college and my girlfriend. Ticked a long standing upset, Handsome and Well Hung on a walk up and gun it mission. Straight out of bed.
Made it to Red Rocks with my girlfriend after Montana to do some climbing in November. Had a blast doing some good moderates with her and some sport climbing. Climbed Frogland, Birdland, and Geronimo while we were doing multi pitch stuff and climbed some easy sport as well as California 12a (12c/d) (which was the hardest thing I'd dogged up to date).
Since then though no good climbing except a session here and there at the gym. But, a good year overall.
Starting this next year with a trip back to Hueco where I'm gonna make an honest attempt at See Spot Run and hopefully flash T-Bone Shuffle (didn't try it last year).
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Dec 20, 2010, 4:09 AM)
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phang_nga
Dec 20, 2010, 10:02 AM
Post #65 of 101
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currupt4130 wrote: Spent my last semester in school climbing every weekend that I could at the New River Gorge. Ticked off many long standing routes that I'd attempted and never sent. Spent more time at the New River Gorge in the fall with good friends from college and my girlfriend. Ticked a long standing upset, Handsome and Well Hung on a walk up and gun it mission. Straight out of bed.
I LOVE the New River Gorge! I'm originally from Hampton (armpit of the universe) Virginia. I used to drive to West Va almost every weekend to kayak and climb.
I started climbing in the Gorge back in the early/mid '80s. We almost never saw anyone else back in the day.
I hope to climb there again in the near future... perhaps this summer. I haven't decided if I want to visit my family or not. It's 12 time zones and one very expensive ticket away.
BTW, have you ever been to the Va Beach Rock Climbing Gym? I kinda like going there.
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currupt4130
Dec 20, 2010, 12:11 PM
Post #66 of 101
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Been to the VBRG two or three times, didn't much care for it though. It is what is, and it's better than nothing though.
I went to school at Va Tech so I was at the New every weekend that I could be once I started climbing my second year of school
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Dec 20, 2010, 12:12 PM)
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phang_nga
Dec 20, 2010, 12:49 PM
Post #67 of 101
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Registered: Apr 2, 2006
Posts: 326
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Ah yes, Blackburg, Va... a lovely spot.
Have you climbed at Seneca Rocks? What about slipping up to the Gunks?
Yep, completely agree... VBRG is OK. I like the people there and the location, but it ain't rock.
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cracklover
Dec 20, 2010, 5:54 PM
Post #68 of 101
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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j_ung wrote: cracklover wrote: j_ung wrote: 2010 was my first full year after back surgery. I had a goal of 10 FAs in 2010. Ended with 14. I'm not as strong as I was, but I'm close enough for now.  That's fantastic, congrats! GO Thank ya! 40 last may, huh? Me too. Obviously we both still have some life left. I'll go get me some if you do too.
Happy 40th to you old man! 
Hope to rope up with you some day before we both get too decrepit, hahaha!
Cheers!
GO
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cracklover
Dec 20, 2010, 5:58 PM
Post #69 of 101
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Posts: 10162
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gamehendge wrote: After several years of being a weekend warrior, I finally broke into the solid .12s including an onsight of a .12a, redpointng several others, and currently projecting a .12d (1 fall last go) in Red Rocks. Also starting to get into V8's.
That first 5.12 onsight is an incredible feeling. Kudos!
And congrats to you, too VTG (or vegas sportandtrad guy?) on your first 12s! Though it sounds like they came at quite a cost.
Speaking of cost...
vegastradguy wrote: oh, and i replaced somewhere around 119 bolts in Red Rock this year with the help of my partner Scott, and an extremely generous donation of bolts and supplies from the American Safe Climbing Association and support from the Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council.
That's fantastic. Thank you very much for your time and effort.
blueeyedclimber wrote: March again? I am trying to get Tiff to go this year. It all depends on her school. Josh
Well, as you know from experience, March is pretty variable here on the front range. That being said, we're almost guaranteed to get some great climbing in at that time of year. Hope you can both make it!
robdotcalm wrote: nkane wrote: 2010 greatest hits: Best individual move: cutting my feet on Modern Times That sounds interesting. What are the details? r.c
Modern times is a totally wild climb in the Gunks. The only 5.8 I can think of that is so steep that you are pretty much required to cut your feet loose at one point (unless you're tall).
GO
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kachoong
Dec 20, 2010, 7:04 PM
Post #70 of 101
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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cracklover wrote: Modern times is a totally wild climb in the Gunks. The only 5.8 I can think of that is so steep that you are pretty much required to cut your feet loose at one point (unless you're tall). GO
You would love Arapiles then, Gabe... lots of steep at no cost in grade. Jug city on so many climbs... plus it's pretty much all trad.
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cracklover
Dec 21, 2010, 12:17 AM
Post #71 of 101
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kachoong wrote: cracklover wrote: Modern times is a totally wild climb in the Gunks. The only 5.8 I can think of that is so steep that you are pretty much required to cut your feet loose at one point (unless you're tall). GO You would love Arapiles then, Gabe... lots of steep at no cost in grade. Jug city on so many climbs... plus it's pretty much all trad.
Indeed, I'm sure I would love it. I first heard about the place from the Glowacz/Wiesmeier book Rocks Around the World. Ever seen it? Great pics, and sounds like a great vibe. Been psyched to go ever since. That pic of him soloing your namesake climb in the perfect setting sun is fantastic.
Someday, I hope.
GO
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forkliftdaddy
Dec 21, 2010, 1:57 AM
Post #72 of 101
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408
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39 years old
11 years climbing
unemployed (part-time routesetter)
~90 days on rock this year
~100 boulder problems
- hardest flash: Woody's V3, V5-,
- hardest send: Picasso Arete, V5+, Asheboro
- favorite problem: Ebonics, V4+ (natural line), Grandmother
~400 pitches
hardest onsights
- Just Another Pretty Face, 11 sport, NRG
- The Angry inch, 11 sport, Maple
- Up The Cliff w/o a Ladder, 11- mixed, Big Cottonwood
hardest flashes
- Dry Spunk, 11 sport, Maple Canyon
- Discombobulated, 11 sport, NRG
hardest red point
- Fat Crack and Beer, 11+ mixed, NRG
- Trojans, 11+ trad, NRG
hardest pink point
- Boogie Til You Puke, 12 mixed, Moore's Wall
- Marionette, 11 trad, NRG
- Synchronicity, 11- trad, RRG
favorite pitches
- VD, 11 trad (red point w/snake at anchor), Moore's Wall
- Unfinished Concerto, 9 trad (onsight with the flu), Looking Glass
- Beer Quester, 11- sport (end of day onsight), Maple Canyon
- Do or Dove, 10- (free solo), Moore's Wall
- Stab in the Dark, 10+ (free solo), Moore's Wall
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Dec 21, 2010, 1:58 AM)
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camhead
Dec 21, 2010, 4:09 AM
Post #73 of 101
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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gamehendge wrote: coastal_climber wrote: gamehendge wrote: After several years of being a weekend warriror, I finally broke into the solid .12s including an onsight of a .12a, redpointng several others, and projecting a .12d (1 fall last go) in Red Rocks.Umm.... Yeah, I'm aware that RR is soft but most of the .12s I've done (including the onsight) was not @ RR. I'm just saying that I'm projecting a very popular .12d there now which probably more of a .12b/c anyways.
The Gift?
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kachoong
Dec 21, 2010, 12:55 PM
Post #74 of 101
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cracklover wrote: kachoong wrote: cracklover wrote: Modern times is a totally wild climb in the Gunks. The only 5.8 I can think of that is so steep that you are pretty much required to cut your feet loose at one point (unless you're tall). GO You would love Arapiles then, Gabe... lots of steep at no cost in grade. Jug city on so many climbs... plus it's pretty much all trad. Indeed, I'm sure I would love it. I first heard about the place from the Glowacz/Wiesmeier book Rocks Around the World. Ever seen it? Great pics, and sounds like a great vibe. Been psyched to go ever since. That pic of him soloing your namesake climb in the perfect setting sun is fantastic. Someday, I hope. GO
You mean this one?
I don't actually have that book, but know of it. Funny enough, the pic was taken at sunrise, since that's the best time for sun to splay across the face like that. The sun moves around over Mitre Lake (in the background) throughout the day and many pics you see of Kachoong will be difficult to get perfect... you get more silhouette shots unless taken very early morning.
Araps is one of the perfect, classic climber scenes. It's our version of camp 4 but without the nasty crowds. Most places in Aus lack crowds in the proportions seen here in the States.... it's one of the things I found unfortunate when moving here.
But yeah... every climber should get to experience Araps. It should be on top of the list!
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