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Suggested BC climbing areas?
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Jeffard9


Dec 18, 2010, 9:12 PM
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Suggested BC climbing areas?
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A friend and I are planning to flight out to BC over the summer for two weeks or so and we're wondering what are the must see places to visit/climb. We're possibly going to have trad gear, but at the moment it's looking like a sport rack.

We're planning on definitely visiting Squamish (that's just understood) and make our way across the mountains to Canmore, Alberta.

Any suggestion for the best flight accommodation (location), sleeping (bringing a tent but showers are nice once and a while), classic routes (climbing 10's and 11s), places with amazing views (doesn't seem like that going to be hard to find in BC), etc.

The more suggestions the better, probably not going to be able to see/try everything but there's always next time.

Thanks in advance.


coastal_climber


Dec 18, 2010, 9:39 PM
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Re: [Jeffard9] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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First off, you might as well move, since you won't wanna go back.

You HAVE to have trad gear. Stay home if you are just bringing draws.

Fly into Vancouver, then catch a bus to squamish. You can camp at the chief campground, and snag showers at the pool (if its open) or take a dip in the river/ocean.

DO NOT go to the hostel for anything. Period.

Climbing can be walked too from the campground.

So you will have 2 weeks in Squam then head east?


uni_jim


Dec 18, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Re: [Jeffard9] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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Squamish - Salmon and crack climbing
Skaha - Fresh Fruit, wine, and cragging
Lake Louise - Tourists, Overpriced food, and cragging
Bow Valley - Steak, variable rock, and good pub storries ("I was so run out when that foothold blew!")


marc801


Dec 19, 2010, 5:30 AM
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Re: [uni_jim] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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uni_jim wrote:
Squamish - Salmon and crack climbing
Skaha - Fresh Fruit, wine, and predominantly sport cragging, although about 25% of the routes are trad and some of the sport routes can use a cam or a couple of stoppers.
Lake Louise - Tourists, Overpriced food, and cragging
Bow Valley - Steak, variable rock, and good pub storries ("I was so run out when that foothold blew!")
Added some Skaha clarification comments for ya.


macblaze


Dec 19, 2010, 7:28 AM
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Re: [Jeffard9] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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I discovered this summer while BC provincial campgrounds may have some of the cleanest outhouses in the universe they just don't do running water. Alberta provincial campgrounds on the other hand, quite often feature showers, power and other luxuries. But you are going to have to reserve ahead because Banff area in the summer is a zoo.

Suffice it to say we were pretty rank by the time we hit the AB border...

If you have time and are just seeing the sights, going south along the #3 is a spectacular drive and We really enjoyed the climbing in Castlegar (which seems to have disappeared from the route database??).

Edited to add:
Oops, found it! http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ys/Water_Line_Walls/


(This post was edited by macblaze on Dec 19, 2010, 7:31 AM)


coastal_climber


Dec 19, 2010, 8:11 AM
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Re: [macblaze] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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macblaze wrote:
I discovered this summer while BC provincial campgrounds may have some of the cleanest outhouses in the universe they just don't do running water. Alberta provincial campgrounds on the other hand, quite often feature showers, power and other luxuries. But you are going to have to reserve ahead because Banff area in the summer is a zoo.

Isn't the idea behind camping not to have those amenities? Tongue


brianri


Dec 19, 2010, 8:14 AM
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If you have the trad rack go to the Bugaboos. One of the great climbing destinations of the world.


Jeffard9


Dec 19, 2010, 8:17 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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The two weeks include BC and Alberta.

Yeah, I think you convinced me to bring the trad rack. Just can't say no to capital letters! Plus some sweet climbing might have played some part in the decision.


bearbreeder


Dec 19, 2010, 11:06 AM
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Re: [Jeffard9] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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- bring yr trad rack, youll use it in squish, and in rockies as well
- make sure you climb at lake louise ... the most scenic climbing in the rockies, trad and sport
- hit up the bugs if you get the chance
- you can camp or stay at hostels ($30/night) in squish or canmore .. choice is yours
- squamishclimb.com for info and partners, climbfind, at worst you can hit up the meetup groups for vancouver and calgary
- wait till the new squamish guidebook by colin moorhead is out (hopefully) if you are going to do lots of climbing there, if not the select climbs of the canadian west should be enough
- if you look online you might be able to find all the topos you need saving on a guidebook
- bring yr day hiking gear as youll likely hike/scramble on your off days ... you can also rent a bike
- make sure your insurance covers medical in canada
- if yr going to do some classic multipitch in the rockies, bring bear spray ... guidebooks recommend it for some climbs
- standard rack from micros to #3 will work for most climbs, micronuts useful for harder (thinner) cracks, doubles useful .. same for both squish and rockies
- bring good headlamp ... night runs up the apron need to be done at least once
- bring light warm jacket for rockies, something with DWR recommended for squish
- youll likely learn to climb in light rain in squish ... everyone does it


Jeffard9


Dec 19, 2010, 6:56 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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Thanks, we got some stuff to thing about now. Good call on the health insurance though, something that you can easily forget.


coastal_climber


Dec 19, 2010, 6:58 PM
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Its universal accross Canada isn't it?


uni_jim


Dec 19, 2010, 7:02 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
Its universal accross Canada isn't it?

as far as I know. Just keep your heath care card handy.


bearbreeder


Dec 19, 2010, 8:33 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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my bad ... i just noticed hes from ontario ...

rescue and health should be covered ... however if his friend is from out of country ... you never know

safe better than sorry


coastal_climber


Dec 19, 2010, 9:36 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Suggested BC climbing areas? [In reply to]
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People from Ontario should have fees...


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