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stran1028
Dec 28, 2010, 1:36 AM
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Hey everyone!
I'm thinking of getting new shoes with some of the money I've saved up. I'm currently wearing the evolv pontas but they're beginning to do terribly on the steeper climbs. I've narrowed it down to the la sportiva testarossa or the solutions.
They're both around the same price and I've heard amazing things about both shoes but it's hard to pick between the two. I would probably use these shoes for bouldering/sport climbing and bring back my pontas if I ever need to do any long trad.
I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or personal recommendations!
Thanks!
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billcoe_
Dec 28, 2010, 1:38 AM
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stran1028 wrote: Hey everyone! I'm thinking of getting new shoes with some of the money I've saved up. I'm currently wearing the evolv pontas but they're beginning to do terribly on the steeper climbs. I've narrowed it down to the la sportiva testarossa or the solutions. They're both around the same price and I've heard amazing things about both shoes but it's hard to pick between the two. I would probably use these shoes for bouldering/sport climbing and bring back my pontas if I ever need to do any long trad. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or personal recommendations! Thanks!
You can ever have enough shoes. Get both. You're welcome.
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lucaskrajnik
Dec 28, 2010, 1:50 AM
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one's for bouldering, the other's for sport.
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stran1028
Dec 28, 2010, 1:52 AM
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which is which?
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vegastradguy
Dec 28, 2010, 2:05 AM
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the solutions are far more popular, but as to their effectiveness....who knows. ive never bought into the thing that one shoe is that much better than another- chances are good if you're asking, better footwork will get your through, or possibly a resole.
you should try on sportiva's and make sure they fit. they're pretty narrow and not necessarily a good fit for those who wear evolv. you may consider the Talon or Predator, evolvs downturned options.
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uni_jim
Dec 28, 2010, 4:50 AM
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I LOVE my testarossas. They rock on the limestone, conglomerate and steep quartzite of the rockies!!! However, they are NOT my choice for crack climbing or routes that require lots of smearing.
A tip for stretching them to your feet when new:
Soak them in warm water, then wear them arround the house (best if you can watch a movie or something, cause walking in these will suck) off and on until they dry. This seems to help me speed up the break in time by a week or so.
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phxclimb
Dec 28, 2010, 4:50 AM
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Whichever ones fit your feet the best.
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rtwilli4
Dec 28, 2010, 7:16 AM
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I'm all about getting new shoes but don't expect them to make you climb better. The Pontas does pretty well on overhanging stuff. Have you seen the climb that it was named after?
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lucaskrajnik
Dec 30, 2010, 7:37 PM
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The solutions are a bouldering shoe, with an odd toe. (those will help you boulder better) swear it.
I havnt used the testarossas, but i have the muira. which are a sport shoe. They are nice.
Solution=boulder
Testarossa=sport
which best fits your foot is better.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 30, 2010, 10:42 PM
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phxclimb wrote: Whichever ones fit your feet the best.
+1
Testarossas are softer (unlined leather) than Solutions. The heel on them is slightly smaller than on Solutions. Laces allow for slightly more precise fit than the strap on Solutions.
For me personally, Testarossas are a better fit. Your mileage may vary.
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