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david7896
Dec 29, 2010, 4:50 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2010
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My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.
The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.
With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.
my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.
The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.
I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.
(This post was edited by david7896 on Dec 29, 2010, 5:14 PM)
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bill413
Dec 29, 2010, 5:06 PM
Post #2 of 71
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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david7896 wrote: My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident. On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie) Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go. The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch. The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight. With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting. my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other. The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future. I would also like to that the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.
Thank you for sharing. Hope for a speedy recovery.
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billl7
Dec 29, 2010, 5:10 PM
Post #3 of 71
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Thanks, man.
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rocknice2
Dec 29, 2010, 5:12 PM
Post #4 of 71
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Get well soon
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Gmburns2000
Dec 29, 2010, 5:31 PM
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thanks for sharing, and a speedy recovery to you.
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majid_sabet
Dec 29, 2010, 5:33 PM
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not clear what the hell you were doing and how you ended up with so much slack but I assume you were climbing with the climber's autopilot on and took too many unnecessary risk without calculating "what if"
you are lucky that you are alive
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david7896
Dec 29, 2010, 5:41 PM
Post #7 of 71
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yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.
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majid_sabet
Dec 29, 2010, 5:49 PM
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david7896 wrote: yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.
in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ?
Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.
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boymeetsrock
Dec 29, 2010, 5:49 PM
Post #9 of 71
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majid_sabet wrote: not clear what the hell you were doing and how you ended up with so much slack but I assume you were climbing with the climber's autopilot on and took too many unnecessary risk without calculating "what if" you are lucky that you are alive
Climber was above third bolt. When he called "clipping", belayer paid out unneeded slack. Climber blew the clip and fell. Between Extra slack and rope stretch climber decked.
Best wishes to you for a speedy recovery. Hope your wife recovers quickly too. Not to minimize your pain, but mental stress from this type of accident can be substantial too. Glad to see the two of you are assessing the situation and results clearly.
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rocknice2
Dec 29, 2010, 5:56 PM
Post #10 of 71
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majid_sabet wrote: Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.
It's December!!!
Nothing like compounding the injury with frost bite.
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david7896
Dec 29, 2010, 5:59 PM
Post #11 of 71
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I’m not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. I’m sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasn’t extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But that’s between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and don’t need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.
(This post was edited by david7896 on Dec 29, 2010, 6:00 PM)
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billl7
Dec 29, 2010, 6:01 PM
Post #12 of 71
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david7896 wrote: yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.
Bill L
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david7896
Dec 29, 2010, 6:02 PM
Post #13 of 71
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thank you bill
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bearbreeder
Dec 29, 2010, 6:14 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ? Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.
climb a 5.8 lead yet majid?
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wonderwoman
Dec 29, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #18 of 71
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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I've hidden some personal attacks in this forum. Please keep it civil in here.
To the OP, I'm glad to see that you have learned from your mistake and it does take courage to put it all out there and share your lessons in this forum. Here's to a speedy recovery.
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majid_sabet
Dec 29, 2010, 6:47 PM
Post #19 of 71
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david7896 wrote: I’m not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. I’m sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasn’t extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But that’s between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and don’t need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.
hey
Do not get me wrong. I have a lot of respect for climbers who come forward to talk about their mistakes, especially in RC.
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majid_sabet
Dec 29, 2010, 6:48 PM
Post #20 of 71
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bearbreeder wrote: majid_sabet wrote: in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ? Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life. climb a 5.8 lead yet majid?
no, i need to buy some gear so what do you recommend ?
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jakedatc
Dec 29, 2010, 7:07 PM
Post #23 of 71
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Majid and Bear. This is not the forum for jokes. Someone was seriously hurt here.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Dec 29, 2010, 7:09 PM)
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kennoyce
Dec 29, 2010, 7:18 PM
Post #24 of 71
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
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david7896 wrote: My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident. On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie) Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go. The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch. The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didn’t need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight. With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting. my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Let’s not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other. The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climber’s job and the belayer’s job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future. I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.
Sorry about your accident and I wish you a speedy recovery. Not to criticize you but there are certainly things to be learned/remembered from this accident.
1. The second and/or third bolt of a climb is generally the most dangerous part because you are close to the ground. If you have any extra slack out in this area of a climb you can very easily deck.
2. Not that this happened, but it is important to note that when you are close to the ground you should never give a soft catch because that could mean decking. I always ask my belayer to give me a hard catch (i.e. take in slack, sit down, or whatever to keep me off the ground) until I have clipped the third bolt on many routes.
3. Climbing is a sport where you can't let your brain take a brake. You always have to be thinking about the possible outcomes of every action you take. Had you been thinking you wouldn't have asked for slack to make the clip (or said clipping as this means slack to the belayer), and you probably wouldn't have decked.
4. Belayers should be paying attention to their climbing partners whenever possible. I don't know if this was possible in your situation, but if the belayer could have seen you she would have realized that you didn't need slack to clip, she would have seen you fall, and she may have been able to take in slack as you fell to keep you off the ground.
Once again this wasn't to put you down or anything, but as always, we can all learn from mistakes. Once again, I hope you recover quickly.
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david7896
Dec 29, 2010, 7:25 PM
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thank you for the constructive criticism. that was very helpful and you are completely right.
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