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uni_jim
Jan 4, 2011, 3:26 AM
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trad gear dosn't hold falls, ice screws can never be trusted, and yer all gonna die.
Discuss.
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rhythm164
Jan 4, 2011, 3:33 AM
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who invited Debbie Downer?
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uni_jim
Jan 4, 2011, 3:43 AM
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rhythm164 wrote: who invited Debbie Downer?
Denial. You just have to quit lying to yourself. Blind trust in yur gear is gonna get you killed.
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TheRucat
Jan 4, 2011, 3:55 AM
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So if what your saying is true, and I get hurt, who is liable?
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uni_jim
Jan 4, 2011, 4:12 AM
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The gear manufacturers, and indirectly the sponsored athletes are responsible.
edit to add:
especially will gadd.
(This post was edited by uni_jim on Jan 4, 2011, 4:13 AM)
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rinkratt25
Jan 4, 2011, 4:33 AM
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I just finished building my first rack (kinda lol) I hate reading things like this makes me nervous…..but if I die climbing fuck it ill die happy
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rhythm164
Jan 4, 2011, 5:21 AM
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uni_jim wrote: rhythm164 wrote: who invited Debbie Downer? Denial. You just have to quit lying to yourself. Blind trust in yur gear is gonna get you killed.
Agreed, the cam is only a good as the climber placing it. I trust my ability to place gear.
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climbinginchico
Jan 4, 2011, 5:35 AM
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I have a green alien that begs to differ.
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potreroed
Jan 4, 2011, 6:30 AM
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Don't know about ice screws but I took a 30 footer onto a tiny #2 rp once and it held just fine-- otherwise I'd a gone another 30 feet to the ground and I prolly wouldn't be here to write this.
You are right, though, we're all gonna die--sooner or later, somehow, somewhere.
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quiteatingmysteak
Jan 4, 2011, 6:47 AM
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Do you trad with trad gear? Unless it's sport, then do you mix?
We should hook up some time when you are in socal. We can go tradding.
I haven't tradded in a while.
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rsmillbern
Jan 4, 2011, 10:19 AM
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uni_jim wrote: rhythm164 wrote: who invited Debbie Downer? Denial. You just have to quit lying to yourself. Blind trust in yur gear is gonna get you killed.
I agree 100%. "Blind Trust" will enventually cause you harm. That being said, I trust a good stopper or cam, placed correctly, in good rock, as much or more than a bolt.
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socalclimber
Jan 4, 2011, 10:28 AM
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I agree, never trust your gear. Horrible stuff it is...
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sungam
Jan 4, 2011, 12:28 PM
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rinkratt25 wrote: I just finished building my first rack (kinda lol) I hate reading things like this makes me nervous…..but if I die climbing fuck it ill die happy
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sp115
Jan 4, 2011, 12:39 PM
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This was from Brutus, from years ago...
"WHAT YOU OUGHT TO KNOW
DISCLAIMER:
Climbing is not only dangerous, it is FATAL. If you climb, you will die. In FACT, it is SO fatal, that even if you don't do it, you will die.
You state that you are considering sport leading. I'm assuming here that you know the basics
KNOTS:
figure-eight knot, bowline, clove hitch, prusik, garda hitch, bachman, kleimheist, butterfly... the simple stuff, and can tie them with one hand and your teeth, falling-down drunk in a cold shower while standing on one foot.
BELAY
And that you can belay with or without a device (ATC, grigri, Eight, Sticht, Tuber, Munter hitch or hip belay as needed)
DESCENT
and can get down off the route whatever happens (walk-off is always first choice, then rappelling with and without a rappel device, with and without carabiners [see carabiner brake, carabiner wrap, and Dulfersitz], and can unclip and down-aid or down-fall as necessary if no rap stations present themselves. "Lower me!" works good too)
ANCHORS
and that you know the difference between a bomber 4-foot oak tree and a 4-inch oak tree, know how to set SLCDs, stoppers, nuts... OK, OK. Maybe not for sport routes. That you know the difference between Star-Drivyn nail anchors, rivets, and 3/8" to 1/2" Fixe stainless anchors. or Rawl 5-piece.
My point is, there's a lotta stuff out there to learn, and a lotta stuff that can kill you. Some of it WAY too simple, WAY too basic, WAY too exemplary of human nature: What sticks in my mind from the last 5 years?
Sport climbers lowering their partner, letting the end of the rope slip through the device. "SPLAT!" But don't worry. That won't happen to YOU. Until you start to relax, to feel like this is easy. When you start to become complacent, watch out.
OK. You're at the base of your first sport lead. You know what back-clipping is, and why you shouldn't do it. You know what Z-clipping is, and that it will never happen to you. You've practiced the movement of right-handed and left-handed clips thousands of times, and are finally ready.
But wait. You climb solid 5.11 on top rope. You know you can cruise this 5.10c. You climbed it two months ago, and floated it.
Climbing "skills" or engrams tend to deteriorate under stress. Like a deer in the headlights or an actor forgetting his lines, we can lose touch with all but the simplest movements and coordination when strung out a long, long way (like 3') from our pro. There's a technical term for this. It's called "shitting your pants."
Start small. Cut a FEW number grades from your top-rope ability. NEVER push the limit in protection and difficulty at the same time. Inspect your gear after every day of climbing. Wash your hands and flush the toilet every time, unless there's a drought. Then, if it's yellow, let it mellow. if it's brown, flush it down. But wash your hands nonetheless.
In closing, I will say this: Knowledge is one of the lightest, most useful things you can bring with you on a climb. And, after you become a world-class climber, never forget what it was like to be a beginner, with so many questions that you didn't know where to start. Hope this helps, and stay safe."
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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ClimbSoHigh
Jan 4, 2011, 7:15 PM
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I loved that from Brutus, but what is the deal of pointing out
In reply to: Wash your hands and flush the toilet every time, unless there's a drought. Then, if it's yellow, let it mellow. if it's brown, flush it down. But wash your hands nonetheless. In reply to: Start small. Cut a FEW number grades from your top-rope ability. NEVER push the limit in protection and difficulty at the same time. Inspect your gear after every day of climbing.
I just dont get the point of the whole bathroom advice, and figure it is just an anectdote that I am completely missing. Or maybe pee and poo have sulfuric acid in it that I was unaware of...
In reply to: Climbing is not only dangerous, it is FATAL. If you climb, you will die. In FACT, it is SO fatal, that even if you don't do it, you will die.
I like this... I will take this and use as my own!
And to the OP, no need to worry since I don't fall on gear or screws (hell, I don't even climb ice).
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erisspirit
Jan 4, 2011, 7:23 PM
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uni_jim wrote: trad gear dosn't hold falls, ice screws can never be trusted, and yer all gonna die. Discuss.
someone is bored
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sp115
Jan 4, 2011, 8:22 PM
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ClimbSoHigh wrote: I just dont get the point of the whole bathroom advice, and figure it is just an anectdote that I am completely missing. Or maybe pee and poo have sulfuric acid in it that I was unaware of...
Given the solemn nature of the topic I can only assume it was a brief moment of levity. Let's just call it "artistic license".
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rtwilli4
Jan 7, 2011, 5:47 PM
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rinkratt25 wrote: I just finished building my first rack (kinda lol) I hate reading things like this makes me nervous…..but if I die climbing fuck it ill die happy
If you have that kind of attitude then you really will die. And no one dies happy my man.
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rinkratt25
Jan 14, 2011, 7:57 AM
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I don’t understand why so many of you are so scared… we’re rock climbers not basket weavers….. pain and even death is what climbing provides.. There’s no room in our sport for pusses
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cmagee1
Jan 14, 2011, 8:45 AM
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In the last issue of Climbing there was a mountain hardwear ad that is now on my wall. It was a picture of an ice climber. I dont know who where or what route it was, but it had a caption that said this:
Risk:everything Reward:everything
I think thats what its about. Its dangerous, we all know that. No one will deny it. But thats part of it, if your not risking everything, can you really get everything out of it?
Thats my view...
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OCD
Jan 14, 2011, 10:55 AM
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I think uni jim should try moving outa his moms house, and grow up and be a man, you gotta trust something. he is probaly upset that his girl friend didnt call him back last night. or maybe his gear wont hold his fat ass. quit your bitching and start climbing
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OCD
Jan 14, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Thanks magic E, we are all gonna die, and we should live in all the moments that we have a chance to live say hi to tammy, and the dogs
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climbingtrash
Jan 14, 2011, 1:34 PM
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climbingtrash
Jan 14, 2011, 1:37 PM
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ice climbing iz Aid
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