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CHACE
Jan 1, 2011, 9:08 PM
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Hi all, my girlfriend and I are going on a long climbing trip around the pacific rim. We are starting in Fiji and are looking for a cheap place to camp for a few nights. If anyone knows of a good spot it would be helpful. Also! If you can recommend some good climbing spots in New Zealand and Australia, it would be very helpful. Thanks! And happy 2011
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rtwilli4
Jan 2, 2011, 8:14 AM
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There are a shit ton of islands in Fiji... where exactly are you interested in going?
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wiki
Jan 2, 2011, 9:00 AM
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For the latest NZ climbing (there has been a lot of development lately), check out www.mojozone.co.nz
I could recommend a lot of good places but there are so many new ones I haven't been to yet.
(Whanganui Bay is a classic)
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wrbill
Jan 2, 2011, 12:18 PM
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You say Fiji, New Zealand, Australia and Asia. The question is what part of Asia as there is a lot to Asia. Some more info as to what part of each area/country you are going to would be helpful in answering you question.
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CHACE
Jan 2, 2011, 1:37 PM
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Thanks for the reply! We will be flying into Singapore and traveling by land up Malaysia into Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. We have about three months in the south east asia part of the trip, maybe longer if we can make some money on the road.
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CHACE
Jan 2, 2011, 1:41 PM
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We are only going to be on Viti Levu. We are flying into Nadi and plan on exploring the island for a while before flying into Aukland.
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wrbill
Jan 2, 2011, 2:30 PM
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Thanks for the update, but sorry I can't help you with any of those areas. If you were coming to the Philippines I would be able to help.
Any way have a safe trip.
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steinmethod
Jan 2, 2011, 4:20 PM
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Hangdog campground located in the top of the south island in New Zealand. As well go to Wanaka!!
Have a great time!
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kiwiprincess
Jan 3, 2011, 6:15 AM
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In NZ if you are prepared to walk and spend some time you will do much Better climbing.
What kind of climbing? Sport, bouldering, trad, alpine adventures?
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phang_nga
Jan 3, 2011, 10:50 AM
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CHACE wrote: We are only going to be on Viti Levu. We are flying into Nadi and plan on exploring the island for a while before flying into Aukland.
The two coolest islands I visited in Fiji were Taveuni and Vanua Balavu. Tavenuni has one coastline with somewhere around 40 waterfalls and Vanua Balavu has a bay called Qilaqila that is dozens upon dozens of mushrooms-shaped outcroppings... stunning. The animal life on Vanua Balavu was not afraid of people. I could paddle right up to kingfishers, fruit bats and other bird life. It was extremely nice being able to do that.
If you're staying on Viti Levu, hop over to Suva and watch the afternoon rugby games. There are a few pitches in town and there were games running most afternoons when I was there... those huge guys could fly!
Have fun...
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 3, 2011, 9:34 PM
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CHACE wrote: Thanks for the reply! We will be flying into Singapore and traveling by land up Malaysia into Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. We have about three months in the south east asia part of the trip, maybe longer if we can make some money on the road.
You can hit the Singapore Quarry if you're stuck there for a few days, but it's nothing spectacular. Otherwise, I'd get outta there ASAP. It's expensive and not all that great, IMHO. Kuala Lumpur is a 3 hour bus ride north; look into the Batu Caves. There's a ton of info on Thailand, no need to repeat here - other than to encourage you to check out the stuff around the central area (Bangkok). Much less traveled than Krabi and Chang Mai. Check out Petchaburi, Lopburi, and Katchanaburi. Laos is awesome, and you'll most likely go through Vang Vieng presuming that you're heading up to Luang Prabang. There's a ton of good climbing in Vang Vieng, cheap accommodation and food, and drugs are really easy to come by. Don't bother with Cambodia (climbing). I'd go check out Angkor and Siem Reap (3 days) and get the fuck out of there. No need to go to Phneom Phen. Vietnam is mostly deep water solo (Halang Bay) unless you're strong in the upper .12s and 13s. No need for camping anywhere in S.E.A. due to cheap rooms
If you climb trad head down to Arapiles in Australia. $2 a night camping, great atmosphere and some 2000 routes in walking distance. You also have the Blueys (hostel camping), Frog (good camping), Booroomba, and dozens more I'm sure.
I liked the central region of upper NZ (Wharepapa area), but I've gotten a lot of disagreement on that from people on the internet. A ton of fun climbing on a volcanic rock called Ignimbrite which can be similar to both limestone and granite. A guy named Bryce runs a hostel which has private rooms, group, and camping. In the south you have Paynes ford (good camping) and whatever that pebble wrestling place by Christchurch is called.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 3, 2011, 9:40 PM
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CHACE wrote: Hi all, my girlfriend and I are going on a long climbing trip around the pacific rim... We have about three months in the south east asia part of the trip, maybe longer if we can make some money on the road.
Post up pics of your girlfriend, we'll let you know if you stand a chance to make some money on the road.
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healyje
Jan 3, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Skip climbing in most of those places and just go to Arapiles or the Blue Mountains and call it good.
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rtwilli4
Jan 4, 2011, 1:14 AM
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Not much climbing on the big island in Fiji, not much else to do their either. Suva is fun if you like to party... but be careful. Rugby is HUGE there so it makes for a fun afternoon.
Everything that's been said here about SE Asia is correct. You're wasting a plane ticket if you just go to TOnsai and don't explore the rest of the country. There is more rock in SE Asia than you can believe.
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rtwilli4
Jan 4, 2011, 4:42 AM
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phang_nga wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: You're wasting a plane ticket if you just go to Tonsai and don't explore the rest of the country. There is more rock in SE Asia than you can believe. What? Tonsai is the center of the climbing universe. I believe it's even mentioned in the bible.  Chace, go to Koh Yao Noi and visit The Sea Gypsy Restaurant in Takhao Bay. You'll meet other climbers there and be able to go out to some absolutely wonderful cliffs on the northern end of the island. There are more routes there than in Tonsai and Railay... and none of the downsides of climbing there. Slip up to Chiang Mai and visit Crazy Horse. Bouldering on Ko Tao sounds cool. A new climbing buddy just came back from there and he said there were tons of bouldering opportunities.
Let's not get ahead of ourselves... there are definitely not more routes on Koh Yao Noi that Tonsai and Railey, even if you count Koh Lo Ka, Koh Pak Bia, etc. Maybe if you include all of the climbing north of Phra Nang...
But I agree, the climbing is amazing and Koh Yao Noi is probably one of my favorite places in the entire world.
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gee
Jan 4, 2011, 6:08 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: If you climb trad head down to Arapiles in Australia. $2 a night camping, great atmosphere and some 2000 routes in walking distance. You also have the Blueys (hostel camping), Frog (good camping), Booroomba, and dozens more I'm sure.
I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs.
What time of year will you be in Australia for? Mid-summer wont be ideal. :)
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phang_nga
Jan 4, 2011, 6:43 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Let's not get ahead of ourselves... there are definitely not more routes on Koh Yao Noi that Tonsai and Railey, even if you count Koh Lo Ka, Koh Pak Bia, etc. Maybe if you include all of the climbing north of Phra Nang... But I agree, the climbing is amazing and Koh Yao Noi is probably one of my favorite places in the entire world.
In the old guidebook there are 87 routes on Koh Yao Noi and 33 routes on nearby islands. There have been quite a few new routes put up since the last edition of the guidebook.
I've not climbed anywhere better in Southern Thailand. The park outside of Phang Nga Town does rival it though... the overall experience of the bay and Phang Nga Town cannot be compared to the hassle of climbing in Krabi.
BTW, I'm probably going to buy six rai of land in northern Krabi Province... not my first choice of locations, but it's far enough away from the thundering masses to not be affected. There are cliffs on this land! Yippee, I might be able to climb in my back yard. 
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rtwilli4
Jan 4, 2011, 7:06 AM
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I haven't seen a guidebook but I climbed at Bee Wall, The Mitt, Tree Wall, Grateful Wall, The Watchtower, The Dump, HD Wall, The Hang, and a few of the smaller islands. Also climbed at a new area just right of the Big Tree Wall. Not sure how many routes but Mark was still working on it when I went up there with him. Actually gave him my glue gun when I left... I know he's still putting up routes like a champ!
Also the best climbing I've done in S. Thailand. I wish I had gotten up to Phang Nga proper but never made it. When I go back to Thailand... it will be to spend time in Phang Nga Province.
I'd agree that the experience is much better than you get in Krabi; I was just saying that there are more routes in Krabi. I could probably name more routes on the Phra Nang Peninsula alone than exist on Koh Yao Noi. And there is no approach. That's why it's so freakin' crazy there.
There are too many people in Tonsai/Railey, there are too many routes, and most people that spend time there now are just beginners and/or gym climbers. A group of old timers still go every year, but it's more for the friendship and the parties than for the climbing. Phi Phi has been infiltrated by Eurotrash and capitalism and is too wild and crazy for most climbers.
It's not quite what you or I are interested in (as a climbing area) but you can't dispute that the quantity of good climbing within walking distance is nearly unparalleled, and that Laem Phra Nang was once the definition of a Climbing Paradise.
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phang_nga
Jan 4, 2011, 7:54 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: I haven't seen a guidebook but I climbed at Bee Wall, The Mitt, Tree Wall, Grateful Wall, The Watchtower, The Dump, HD Wall, The Hang, and a few of the smaller islands. Also climbed at a new area just right of the Big Tree Wall. Not sure how many routes but Mark was still working on it when I went up there with him. Actually gave him my glue gun when I left... I know he's still putting up routes like a champ! Also the best climbing I've done in S. Thailand. I wish I had gotten up to Phang Nga proper but never made it. When I go back to Thailand... it will be to spend time in Phang Nga Province.
Wow, you got around when you were here... well done! Yes, Mark is out almost every day putting new stuff up. There's enough rock to put up a lot more routes without it turning into a climbing zoo.
Hmm, OK, just how many routes are there in Krabi? Admittedly, I haven't been there in over a decade. I can't stomach the people - both the local rip-off merchants and the types of climbers who go there. If you say there are more routes, then I bow to your knowledge. I guess they did what they do in most places in Thailand: find something nice, the over-do the fcuk out of it. 
When you come back, let's hit Phang Nga Province. You'll go nuts! 
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rtwilli4
Jan 5, 2011, 2:09 PM
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I've been there a few times... I really love it.
There are at least 300 on Phra Nang, close to 100 on Phi Phi, and a few dozen at a new place in Chong Pli, near Ao Nang. Chong Pli is excellent by the way and alway empty. I can put you in touch w/ the route developer if you like, just Pm me.
The problem with Tonsai and Railey is that a lot of the routes have yet to be rebolted.... but we're making progress. But yea, I completely agree with your last comment. It seems like people just don't know when to stop in that country.
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kachoong
Jan 5, 2011, 3:36 PM
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gee wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: If you climb trad head down to Arapiles in Australia. $2 a night camping, great atmosphere and some 2000 routes in walking distance. You also have the Blueys (hostel camping), Frog (good camping), Booroomba, and dozens more I'm sure. I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs. What time of year will you be in Australia for? Mid-summer wont be ideal. :)
You obviously climb the wrong routes at Booroomba. There are at least 50 great crack climbs there.
Having said that, if you're not visiting Canberra there's no real benefit to organizing a stop at Booroomba.
Definitely don't miss the Grampians, Arapiles, Blue Mountains and Frog Buttress. If you want some alternative areas with great atmosphere go to the Warrumbungles, Mt Buffalo, Glasshouse Mountains and/or Point Perpendicular... possibly even Tasmania if you are there Oct-April.
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porthillsclimber
Jan 5, 2011, 8:44 PM
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For NZ, south island is the best for climbing. castle hill for bouldering and a bit of sport climbing. wanaka and queenstown are worth a visit. I would recommend getting hold of a copy of rock deluxe, it gives you a bit of information about most of the south island crags.
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gee
Jan 6, 2011, 1:03 AM
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kachoong wrote: gee wrote: I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs. You obviously climb the wrong routes at Booroomba. There are at least 50 great crack climbs there.
I probably have been, yeah. Any recommendations other than the obvious ones (Hermes, Vomit, Integral)?
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kachoong
Jan 6, 2011, 1:46 AM
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gee wrote: kachoong wrote: gee wrote: I'll add another vote for Arapiles. I'd skip Booroomba unless you particularly enjoy runout slabs. You obviously climb the wrong routes at Booroomba. There are at least 50 great crack climbs there. I probably have been, yeah. Any recommendations other than the obvious ones (Hermes, Vomit, Integral)?
You living in ACT?
Hmmm, well lets see. Fiasco (17) is a beautiful line (probably the best 17 pitch at Booroomba I reckon) and in the same area look for Madrigal (19?). Ummm... Yellow Brick Road (20 or 21) has a wonderful pitch up high from memory. I think also Outer Limit (18?) has some great moves on it. Big Boris (17?) I believe has some good crack. Fearon (15) is a nice line nearby but perhaps not too much crack climbing. Then there is Inscisor (tough 19) on the north butt... incredible line and intimidating when you're at the base of it. Do Hurricane Cracks too (I think one is a 15). Do Possum (13) and finish on Carressima finish (really enjoyable grade 15 pitch). Determinant (16) has some nice climbing on it too. If you do Possum, rap down and from the top of the traverse pitch, climb out left under the overlap and do the 18 that blasts up that face...can't remember it's name... maybe starts with an "I". More will come to mind, but that's a good start. All really good climbs IMO.
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