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sungam
Jan 4, 2011, 8:11 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I once made the mistake of forgetting to cut your fucking rope when I had the chance! Oh yeah, instead you tried to kill me by throwing an enormous fucking rock at my head. Thanks, Greg. tee hee hee My only regret was that it wasn't big enough, both in size and surprise. edit: I'm tired dammit, and haven't had my afternoon nap. I hate typos. It wasn't that big a surprise. "Greg, wait! Don't throw that rope" *rockfall ensues* "What? I couldn't hear you over the sound of me TRYING TO END YOUR LIFE."
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cracklover
Jan 4, 2011, 8:14 PM
Post #103 of 207
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Lots of good stories. Thanks for posting them! I've only really fucked up once. It was the end of a long day and I was leading the crux last pitch of Book of Solemnity. I was pretty zonked and it was a long and very difficult lead for me. I had never been on it before, and was hoping to onsight. Adding to the complexity, I had two seconds I was planning to bring up, and I was leading on double ropes. So I was putting a lot of thought into where to put gear both to protect me, and also each of the two seconds. And if any of you have done the climb, you know there are some spots on the pitch that are very dangerous for the second. (EDITED to add that in all the pictures, the second rope is removed for simplicity.) Anyway, I had made it to the top, clean, and was tired but happy. I thought I had set everything up perfectly for both my seconds so they would be protected at the crux, and also at the top of the climb, where there's a very tricky move just to traverse over to the belay slab. So up starts second number one. He gets to the crux and I realize that I've done something really stupid. Here was the situation: I had extended myself ten feet down a steep slab from the anchors so as to be able to see over the lip and keep track of my seconds. The belay rope was going over five feet and up ten into a piece I had placed to protect the second for the final traverse move to the anchor. Well I'm sure you can see as well as I how dumb that seems. If the second were to fall anywhere on the pitch and that piece were to blow, the second would fall 20+ feet, plus rope stretch! And, at the crux of the route, 50 feet below me, the second fell! The piece held, but I got really nervous. As the second was hanging on the rope, I decided I didn't care any more about being able to see him, I cared more about that 20 feet of slack in the rope if the piece were to blow. So I hiked myself up to near the piece, pulling in slack as I went. Here's how it looked now: My second continued to try the crux move, and fell several times. Each time the piece held. And then he fell and I heard the pop. There was a moment of slack and then I was flipped over backwards and dragged upside-down to the bottom of the slab. He had only dropped the ten feet I'd been dragged down the slab, and fortunately it was steep below him, so he hadn't hit anything. But I felt like such an idiot. To endanger yourself, as a leader, is one thing. But to needlessly endanger your second like that is so much worse. I sure as hell learned my lesson about directionals that day. GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jan 4, 2011, 8:20 PM)
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sp115
Jan 4, 2011, 8:26 PM
Post #104 of 207
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Awesome story AND we got pictures!
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Gmburns2000
Jan 4, 2011, 8:29 PM
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I once made the mistake of forgetting to cut your fucking rope when I had the chance! Oh yeah, instead you tried to kill me by throwing an enormous fucking rock at my head. Thanks, Greg. tee hee hee My only regret was that it wasn't big enough, both in size and surprise. edit: I'm tired dammit, and haven't had my afternoon nap. I hate typos. It wasn't that big a surprise. "Greg, wait! Don't throw that rope" *rockfall ensues* "What? I couldn't hear you over the sound of me TRYING TO END YOUR LIFE." heh, that was funny to read. not quite accurate, but funny. if I remember correctly, you were specifically told not to start jugging the first pitch until after I finished jugging the second pitch, and you were hit with rockfall as I was jugging P2 after you didn't listen to us. hehe...ah, that was a great three days...
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ClimbSoHigh
Jan 4, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #106 of 207
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In reply to: boymeetsrock wrote:I have two that stand out. 1) Lead the first of a two pitch climb and finished at a hanging belay. While hanging there @ 160' off the ground I noticed my harness felt loose. I thought to myself, 'I really though I snugged this up before leaving the ground.' Looked down and realized I hadn't doubled-back my buckles. The whole thing was sliding loose while I was hanging in it! I think I had my second on an auto-block, which made it easier to double-back the buckles while maintaining the belay. 2) In the gym and still new to lead belay with a gri-gri. I noticed I threaded the gri-gri backwards when my partner was already two or three clips up the wall. I immediately asked a third member of our group to give me a back up belay. Once the climber could clip in I re-threaded the belay. I also chastised both of us for not catching that pre-climb. Perhaps it is the simple tasks that are most easy to overlook and that are often deadly if missed. I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot. II have a suggestion for gri gri's that I do not see many climbers do, that will help mitigate gri gri failures. Everytime I lead a sport climb, I double check the knots and set ups like most people do/should. As most posters have hinted to, even with this double and tripple check, we all get distracted once in a while and glance over things and a back threaded gri gri doesn't jump out like "dude, your not tied in" does. My advice before every climb with a gri gri belayer, is to do your check on knots, biners, belay device, and harness, then do the tug test. I simply grab my tie in (to make sure I am tugging on the right end, and to tripple check that knot after making a knot mistake years ago), walk my hands along the rope to where it is connected to my belayer, then I give it a yank to verify the gri gri is threaded correctly, and is not gummed up or frozen. It gives my physical proof the device is working and will lock in a fall before I leave the ground. And for my 2 stories that come to mind... 1. A bunch of years ago I worked out the moves to my first 5.12a climb but was too weak at the end of the day to send. The next morning I ran to my climb, tied in, threw my shoes on, and started rehearsing my moves in the air while my buddy caught up and set up the belay. After a quick safty check, I was off, and flashed it. Totally psyched I clipped the quick clips, yelled take in excitement, leaned back into my harness once I felt the rope go tight, and suddenly started to invert. Shocked I quickly grabbed my rope and corrected myself, then looked down and saw that I had only tied in to my leg loop tie in (the 8 was well dressed though!). Wouldn't have decked or anything, but could have had a nasty inverted helmetless whipper into a block had I blown the final crux. I went from pure excitement and joy, to ashamed and disapointed with myself, before I even got back to the ground. So my first 12a is actually an embarasing memory, not a triumphant one, and I flashed it none the less. More recently really hung over, I went trad climbing with a buddy. He was on something well within his abilities, but was rehabbing an injury. Tired with a stiff neck i sat down on a natural chair that angled my head up, like I do for TR'ing often, still paying attention and locked off, but clearly not belaying as well if I was standing. My buddy got into the crux and got hung up for a minute, he looked down and yelled at me to get my ass up. I still feel embarased about this as I really should not be sitting for any belaying (although I still do for TR), nor climbing/belaying very hung over which I know plenty of climbers do even though we know we shouldn't, even the pro's do it... Just ask Jason Kruk how hangover went...) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...r-for-the-weekend-56
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sungam
Jan 4, 2011, 8:45 PM
Post #107 of 207
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I once made the mistake of forgetting to cut your fucking rope when I had the chance! Oh yeah, instead you tried to kill me by throwing an enormous fucking rock at my head. Thanks, Greg. tee hee hee My only regret was that it wasn't big enough, both in size and surprise. edit: I'm tired dammit, and haven't had my afternoon nap. I hate typos. It wasn't that big a surprise. "Greg, wait! Don't throw that rope" *rockfall ensues* "What? I couldn't hear you over the sound of me TRYING TO END YOUR LIFE." heh, that was funny to read. not quite accurate, but funny. if I remember correctly, you were specifically told not to start jugging the first pitch until after I finished jugging the second pitch, and you were hit with rockfall as I was jugging P2 after you didn't listen to us. hehe...ah, that was a great three days... Yeah, I started early but the rockfall was from you throwing the rope. I was at the belay station and I defnitely remember first being hit by rope, looking up to shout at you then seeing the rock...
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boymeetsrock
Jan 4, 2011, 8:45 PM
Post #108 of 207
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Damn Gabe. That's a good one! Glad all were OK in the event. Did you consider ascending to the anchor and redirecting again off of that, as apposed to ascending to the directional. Still would have been a longer fall for the second, but at least you wouldn't have flipped. Good illustrations too.
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sungam
Jan 4, 2011, 8:46 PM
Post #109 of 207
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I once made the mistake of forgetting to cut your fucking rope when I had the chance! Oh yeah, instead you tried to kill me by throwing an enormous fucking rock at my head. Thanks, Greg. tee hee hee My only regret was that it wasn't big enough, both in size and surprise. edit: I'm tired dammit, and haven't had my afternoon nap. I hate typos. It wasn't that big a surprise. "Greg, wait! Don't throw that rope" *rockfall ensues* "What? I couldn't hear you over the sound of me TRYING TO END YOUR LIFE." heh, that was funny to read. not quite accurate, but funny. if I remember correctly, you were specifically told not to start jugging the first pitch until after I finished jugging the second pitch, and you were hit with rockfall as I was jugging P2 after you didn't listen to us. hehe...ah, that was a great three days... Yeah, I started early but the rockfall was from you throwing the rope. I was at the belay station and I defnitely remember first being hit by rope, looking up to shout at you then seeing the rock... p.s. for everyone reading, it is worth understanding that I waiting till Greg was *almost* done jugging it's just that he jugs slower then me so I finished P1 just after he finished P2.
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spikeddem
Jan 4, 2011, 8:48 PM
Post #110 of 207
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ClimbSoHigh wrote: I have a suggestion for gri gri's that I do not see many climbers do, that will help mitigate gri gri failures. Everytime I lead a sport climb, I double check the knots and set ups like most people do/should. As most posters have hinted to, even with this double and tripple check, we all get distracted once in a while and glance over things and a back threaded gri gri doesn't jump out like "dude, your not tied in" does. My advice before every climb with a gri gri belayer, is to do your check on knots, biners, belay device, and harness, then do the tug test. I simply grab my tie in (to make sure I am tugging on the right end, and to tripple check that knot after making a knot mistake years ago), walk my hands along the rope to where it is connected to my belayer, then I give it a yank to verify the gri gri is threaded correctly, and is not gummed up or frozen. It gives my physical proof the device is working and will lock in a fall before I leave the ground. Ugh. See above for this. Stop tugging your partners.
In reply to: And for my 2 stories that come to mind... 1. A bunch of years ago I worked out the moves to my first 5.12a climb but was too weak at the end of the day to send. The next morning I ran to my climb, tied in, threw my shoes on, and started rehearsing my moves in the air while my buddy caught up and set up the belay. After a quick safty check, I was off, and flashed it. Totally psyched I clipped the quick clips, yelled take in excitement, leaned back into my harness once I felt the rope go tight, and suddenly started to invert. Shocked I quickly grabbed my rope and corrected myself, then looked down and saw that I had only tied in to my leg loop tie in (the 8 was well dressed though!). Wouldn't have decked or anything, but could have had a nasty inverted helmetless whipper into a block had I blown the final crux. I went from pure excitement and joy, to ashamed and disapointed with myself, before I even got back to the ground. So my first 12a is actually an embarasing memory, not a triumphant one, and I flashed it none the less. Wanna make a bet that you flashed it?
In reply to: More recently really hung over, I went trad climbing with a buddy. He was on something well within his abilities, but was rehabbing an injury. Tired with a stiff neck i sat down on a natural chair that angled my head up, like I do for TR'ing often, still paying attention and locked off, but clearly not belaying as well if I was standing. My buddy got into the crux and got hung up for a minute, he looked down and yelled at me to get my ass up. I still feel embarased about this as I really should not be sitting for any belaying (although I still do for TR), nor climbing/belaying very hung over which I know plenty of climbers do even though we know we shouldn't, even the pro's do it... Just ask Jason Kruk how hangover went...) http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...r-for-the-weekend-56 You sat down when you're belaying? That's a stupid "choice" not a stupid "mistake," which is what this thread is about.
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boymeetsrock
Jan 4, 2011, 8:51 PM
Post #111 of 207
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jt512 wrote: Hopefully that will be the effect of the thread, rather than, as implied by notapplicable, an opportunity for catharsis and to falsely convince ourselves that these mistakes are normal. No, they're not. Hopefully, this thread is an unrepresentative sample. Jay No one is saying that these mistakes are normal, in the sense that you are saying. The purpose of this thread, as I see it, is not to be cathartic, but to admit your mistakes in the hopes that other people can learn from them. I don't want to speak for everyone, but I do not take lightly any mistake I have made. People make mistakes. If you are as perfect as you claim to be, then YOU are the unrepresentative sample. Josh I agree. I would add that I'm not really expecting anyone to learn from my mistakes directly, or from many of other peoples mistakes. Most of these mistakes are failures to adhere to very basic "rules". What this thread provides is an acknowledgment that most of us do make mistakes. Further, these mistakes often result from a lapse of concentration. If anything, this thread is a reminder to be vigilant and that none of us are infallible.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 4, 2011, 8:58 PM
Post #112 of 207
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sungam wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: I once made the mistake of forgetting to cut your fucking rope when I had the chance! Oh yeah, instead you tried to kill me by throwing an enormous fucking rock at my head. Thanks, Greg. tee hee hee My only regret was that it wasn't big enough, both in size and surprise. edit: I'm tired dammit, and haven't had my afternoon nap. I hate typos. It wasn't that big a surprise. "Greg, wait! Don't throw that rope" *rockfall ensues* "What? I couldn't hear you over the sound of me TRYING TO END YOUR LIFE." heh, that was funny to read. not quite accurate, but funny. if I remember correctly, you were specifically told not to start jugging the first pitch until after I finished jugging the second pitch, and you were hit with rockfall as I was jugging P2 after you didn't listen to us. hehe...ah, that was a great three days... Yeah, I started early but the rockfall was from you throwing the rope. I was at the belay station and I defnitely remember first being hit by rope, looking up to shout at you then seeing the rock... p.s. for everyone reading, it is worth understanding that I waiting till Greg was *almost* done jugging it's just that he jugs slower then me so I finished P1 just after he finished P2. OK, I'll concede. I don't remember the specifics that much. I definitely thought I was still jugging when the rock came off.
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Rudmin
Jan 4, 2011, 9:06 PM
Post #114 of 207
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I set up some top ropes with a friend belaying me. I assumed that he knew more than he did (having gone through a very long climbing skills course (one session per week for many weeks and had climbed with him indoors many times). So anyways, the first climb, I topped out and moved the anchors. On the second climb, I called "take" at the top, sat back and fell halfway down the cliff. He had assumed that I was moving the anchors again, and take meant that I was taking the rope up with me. He had fed out a handful of slack before the rope went tight and zipped through his loose hands. He caught it in time to keep me from hitting the ground and suffered burns to his hands. I got some bruises and ripped my shirt. I think the lesson is obvious.
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cracklover
Jan 4, 2011, 9:34 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: Damn Gabe. That's a good one! Glad all were OK in the event. Me too. Had my partner been seriously injured, I would have been devastated.
In reply to: Did you consider ascending to the anchor and redirecting again off of that, as apposed to ascending to the directional. Still would have been a longer fall for the second, but at least you wouldn't have flipped. Not until afterward. Also, because my second was hanging on the rope, it would have been tricky to do so, since I'd have had to block off the belay rope to get both hands free to ascend to the anchor, and that would have lowered my partner into open air. There are plenty of solutions to that issue that occurred to me after the fact. But really, thinking back, the best solution would have been to A - double up the protection (now I ALWAYS do) on the redirect, and B - also redirect the rope through the anchors. At least I didn't lose control of the belay as I got yanked over backwards and down the slab.
In reply to: Good illustrations too. Heh. I can draw stick figures with the best of 'em. G
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boymeetsrock
Jan 4, 2011, 9:52 PM
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cracklover wrote: A - double up the protection (now I ALWAYS do) on the redirect, and B - also redirect the rope through the anchors. Yes
In reply to: At least I didn't lose control of the belay as I got yanked over backwards and down the slab. YES! Well done!
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cracklover
Jan 4, 2011, 10:04 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: cracklover wrote: A - double up the protection (now I ALWAYS do) on the redirect, and B - also redirect the rope through the anchors. Yes In reply to: At least I didn't lose control of the belay as I got yanked over backwards and down the slab. YES! Well done! Well, as Jay would be the first to remind me, as a belayer, it's no big deal to keep control as you're being scraped forcibly and with great speed, head first, down a slab. Seriously, though, it was, quite literally, the *least* I could do after screwing up so badly. GO
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boymeetsrock
Jan 4, 2011, 10:09 PM
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cracklover wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: cracklover wrote: A - double up the protection (now I ALWAYS do) on the redirect, and B - also redirect the rope through the anchors. Yes In reply to: At least I didn't lose control of the belay as I got yanked over backwards and down the slab. YES! Well done! Well, as Jay would be the first to remind me, as a belayer, it's no big deal to keep control as you're being scraped forcibly and with great speed, head first, down a slab. Seriously, though, it was, quite literally, the *least* I could do after screwing up so badly. GO You know, I almost said the same thing. Figured I'd given Jay enough shit for one day (even though he's not reading it). I even toned back my comment so as not to CDB for doing your job as a belayer. You're right, though. It was the *least* you could do. heh
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Gmburns2000
Jan 4, 2011, 10:11 PM
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cracklover wrote: boymeetsrock wrote: cracklover wrote: A - double up the protection (now I ALWAYS do) on the redirect, and B - also redirect the rope through the anchors. Yes In reply to: At least I didn't lose control of the belay as I got yanked over backwards and down the slab. YES! Well done! Well, as Jay would be the first to remind me, as a belayer, it's no big deal to keep control as you're being scraped forcibly and with great speed, head first, down a slab. Seriously, though, it was, quite literally, the *least* I could do after screwing up so badly. GO I mean, what was the fall factor in the end? It was nothing!
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cracklover
Jan 4, 2011, 10:24 PM
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jt512 wrote: Hopefully that will be the effect of the thread, rather than, as implied by notapplicable, an opportunity for catharsis and to falsely convince ourselves that these mistakes are normal. No, they're not. Hopefully, this thread is an unrepresentative sample. Jay Hmm... Jay, you know I respect you, but I don't know how better to say this, so I'll just spit it out. In my opinion, to think that you can have a long career of adventurous climbing and never be saved from your own mistakes by plain old good fortune displays something worse than the ability to make a mistake. It shows plain and simple hubris and overconfidence. You can stack all the odds in your favor with a full bag of tricks, a good head on your shoulders for solving problems, and a lot of good habits, but... you cannot guarantee that you will never err. GO
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moose_droppings
Jan 5, 2011, 12:11 AM
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cracklover wrote: Thanks. Thought it would be too hard to explain without the pics. GO A couple dozen red and green arrows in the pic would help.
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erisspirit
Jan 5, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Nothing really crazy yet... Once I tied my figure 8, only tieing into the loop at the leg loops, and not the one at the waist. Luckily my boyfriend who was newly returning to the sport was pretty paranoid about double checking each other, so he caught my error before I left the ground.
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 5, 2011, 1:56 AM
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cracklover wrote: Hmm... Jay, you know I respect you, but I don't know how better to say this, so I'll just spit it out. Respect him? Why? There is no doubt that Jay is very smart in certain fields, but is one of the most disrespectful human beings I've never had the displeasure of meeting and lacks the basic social skills that one learns in preschool. I'm starting to think he has plonked me, however, since he hasn't responded to me in a while. Oh well.
In reply to: In my opinion, to think that you can have a long career of adventurous climbing and never be saved from your own mistakes by plain old good fortune displays something worse than the ability to make a mistake. It shows plain and simple hubris and overconfidence. You can stack all the odds in your favor with a full bag of tricks, a good head on your shoulders for solving problems, and a lot of good habits, but... you cannot guarantee that you will never err. GO Well said. Josh
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jt512
Jan 5, 2011, 2:59 AM
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cracklover wrote: jt512 wrote: Hopefully that will be the effect of the thread, rather than, as implied by notapplicable, an opportunity for catharsis and to falsely convince ourselves that these mistakes are normal. No, they're not. Hopefully, this thread is an unrepresentative sample. Jay Hmm... Jay, you know I respect you, but I don't know how better to say this, so I'll just spit it out. In my opinion, to think that you can have a long career of adventurous climbing and never be saved from your own mistakes by plain old good fortune displays something worse than the ability to make a mistake. It shows plain and simple hubris and overconfidence. You can stack all the odds in your favor with a full bag of tricks, a good head on your shoulders for solving problems, and a lot of good habits, but... you cannot guarantee that you will never err. GO You quoted me out of context. The "these mistakes" I was referring to were in this sentence from my previous post: "I've never made a life-threatening error wrt my climbing equipment." I've certainly made life-threatening judgment errors, but I was talking about the types of equipment errors discussed in the thread (some of which I went on to enumerate). I think you absolutely can go through a "long career of adventure climbing" without ever forgetting to double back your harness, mis-rigging your rappel, or half-tying your tie-in knot, and so on. I think the majority of climbers do go through their careers without making such mistakes. And I can tell you from personal experience that there are plenty of activities where you don't get a second chance after making an equipment error, so you'd better never make one. Jay
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notapplicable
Jan 5, 2011, 4:00 AM
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jt512 wrote: blondgecko wrote: I think that's rather the point of this thread, isn't it? People who don't have the benefit of such extensive training receiving wake-up calls that convinced them to take safety more seriously - and sharing their mistakes so that others know to watch out for them too. Hopefully that will be the effect of the thread, rather than, as implied by notapplicable, an opportunity for catharsis and to falsely convince ourselves that these mistakes are normal. No, they're not. Hopefully, this thread is an unrepresentative sample. Jay Catharsis? I was think more along the lines of solidarity, but perhaps one comes with the other in this type of discussion. Hadn't really considered it. I'm not even so optimistic as to assume that anyone will take away some specific lesson from these stories. The best I'm hoping for, and I think it's a reasonable thing to hope for, is that this thread may drag back to the surface a bit of the caution and paranoia that insists on triple checking the simple stupid stuff. Even if only for awhile. Not speaking for anyone else here but I seem to have some back corner of my mind to which it slips on occasion.
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