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mr.tastycakes
Jan 5, 2011, 4:31 PM
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sungam wrote: Naked edge for sure, but for the gunks I think high E or the dangler are more famous. Haven't heard of the rostrum, slashface, or the budda.
Haven't heard of the Rostrum?!? Blasphemy!
The only routes in Scotland I know of are the Dave MacLeod routes Rhapsody and Echo Wall. I'm a little more familiar with grit routes...I'd say Parthian Shot is a "famous" climb. Gia also. That little climb probably gets way too much attention.
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dreday3000
Jan 5, 2011, 4:51 PM
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In reply to: Either way, I think Supercrack may be the only one at the New that many people who haven't climbed there would know about. Sort of like Ro Shampo or WTOK at the Red, which I've heard far more chatter about than Rock Warrior. Along with the stuff at Rumney, they're not really on par with most of the others mentioned here.
Supercrack? Really? I've been climbing at the New for 10 years and haven't bothered with the thing. Guess I'm missing out...
What about Mango Tango at the New? You don't hear about it much these days but there was a time when it was getting a lot of attention.
Anyone remember that video of Joel Brady doing Mango Tango? Awesome video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zpYlV-x3S4
I agree about Rock Warrior v Ro Shampo.
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airbender
Jan 5, 2011, 5:29 PM
Post #28 of 46
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What about Bum Boy at HorsePens40 and The Scoop at Rocktown Ga
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acorneau
Jan 5, 2011, 5:47 PM
Post #29 of 46
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Blue on rope #7 and the lead with pink and blue tape.
Absolute classics!
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justroberto
Jan 5, 2011, 5:47 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Supercrack? Really? I've been climbing at the New for 10 years and haven't bothered with the thing. Guess I'm missing out...
There may be better routes, but it was on the cover of Climbing, bringing the New into the national spotlight. Anyways, being one of the most well-known routes in West Virginia (Mango Tango, Apollo Reed, SC) is like being the most well-known climb in Ireland; no one actually cares aside from those who climb there.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Jan 5, 2011, 5:48 PM)
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sungam
Jan 5, 2011, 5:49 PM
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airbender wrote: What about Bum Boy at HorsePens40 and The Scoop at Rocktown Ga
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camhead
Jan 5, 2011, 6:31 PM
Post #32 of 46
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rtwilli4 wrote: I dunno about Rock Warrior. I'm interested to see who knows that one. I've climbed it w/in the past year and it still took me a minute to realize which route you were talking about. Great route, maybe not famous though. How many of you have heard of these routes: "Burning Calves" "The Will to Power" "Welcome to Beauty" "Sons of Thunder" (both right and left) "Screamer Crack" "Leave it to Jesus" "Proper Soul" "The Greatest Show on Earth" Those are all well known around here but probably not around the world. Kudos to the first person who knows which is a Lynn Hill route. Funny actually how many of these routes are either FFA and/or famous because of Lynn Hill.
I assumed that he was talking about Rock Wars. Nice list of NRG climbs, too.
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camhead
Jan 5, 2011, 6:32 PM
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Dip wrote: In reply to: "Burning Calves" "The Will to Power" "Welcome to Beauty" "Sons of Thunder" (both right and left) "Screamer Crack" "Leave it to Jesus" "Proper Soul" "The Greatest Show on Earth" Those are all well known around here but probably not around the world. Kudos to the first person who knows which is a Lynn Hill route. Isn't it Proper Soul?
BZZZZT!
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kachoong
Jan 5, 2011, 6:47 PM
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acorneau wrote: Blue on rope #7 and the lead with pink and blue tape. Absolute classics!
Most likely already chopped
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gerbil
Jan 5, 2011, 7:17 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Yep The Greatest Show is Lynn Hill. Not sure who got the FA on Proper Soul but Brent Perkins did it on gear last fall and rated it 14a r/x. Craziness!
Brian McCray, homeboy
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rtwilli4
Jan 5, 2011, 7:50 PM
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camhead wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: I dunno about Rock Warrior. I'm interested to see who knows that one. I've climbed it w/in the past year and it still took me a minute to realize which route you were talking about. Great route, maybe not famous though. How many of you have heard of these routes: "Burning Calves" "The Will to Power" "Welcome to Beauty" "Sons of Thunder" (both right and left) "Screamer Crack" "Leave it to Jesus" "Proper Soul" "The Greatest Show on Earth" Those are all well known around here but probably not around the world. Kudos to the first person who knows which is a Lynn Hill route. Funny actually how many of these routes are either FFA and/or famous because of Lynn Hill. I assumed that he was talking about Rock Wars. Nice list of NRG climbs, too.
Rock Wars that's it. I knew The Rock Warrior sounded funny.
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justroberto
Jan 5, 2011, 8:34 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: camhead wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: I dunno about Rock Warrior. I'm interested to see who knows that one. I've climbed it w/in the past year and it still took me a minute to realize which route you were talking about. Great route, maybe not famous though. How many of you have heard of these routes: "Burning Calves" "The Will to Power" "Welcome to Beauty" "Sons of Thunder" (both right and left) "Screamer Crack" "Leave it to Jesus" "Proper Soul" "The Greatest Show on Earth" Those are all well known around here but probably not around the world. Kudos to the first person who knows which is a Lynn Hill route. Funny actually how many of these routes are either FFA and/or famous because of Lynn Hill. I assumed that he was talking about Rock Wars. Nice list of NRG climbs, too. Rock Wars that's it. I knew The Rock Warrior sounded funny.
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camhead
Jan 5, 2011, 8:44 PM
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justroberto wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: camhead wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: I dunno about Rock Warrior. I'm interested to see who knows that one. I've climbed it w/in the past year and it still took me a minute to realize which route you were talking about. Great route, maybe not famous though. How many of you have heard of these routes: "Burning Calves" "The Will to Power" "Welcome to Beauty" "Sons of Thunder" (both right and left) "Screamer Crack" "Leave it to Jesus" "Proper Soul" "The Greatest Show on Earth" Those are all well known around here but probably not around the world. Kudos to the first person who knows which is a Lynn Hill route. Funny actually how many of these routes are either FFA and/or famous because of Lynn Hill. I assumed that he was talking about Rock Wars. Nice list of NRG climbs, too. Rock Wars that's it. I knew The Rock Warrior sounded funny. Brain fart - maybe that's why I hadn't heard of it. Not that I've met many people who go to the Red to climb cracks, but most of the ones I've talked to have been on RW. Some even do it without getting on Autumn, which is just craziness.
What are you talking about? Autumn is like a retarded smelly step brother to Rock Wars' elegance.
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justroberto
Jan 5, 2011, 9:38 PM
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camhead wrote: Rock Wars' elegance.
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kachoong
Jan 5, 2011, 9:46 PM
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justroberto wrote: camhead wrote: Rock Wars' elegance. Clearly you didn't see me on it a few years ago. It would have irreparably sullied your opinion of the climb.
Yeah right... you just wanted to use the word "sullied"... and subsequently to keep he climb to yerself.
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rtwilli4
Jan 5, 2011, 10:56 PM
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justroberto wrote: Rock Wars that's it. I knew The Rock Warrior sounded funny.
You're right, not many people climbing cracks or any trad at the Red, which is insane. I thought the stuff at the Gold Coast was great, and Long Wall was amazing. B3 and that long .10 next to it... classic. There was a cool sport climb up there too.
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camhead
Jan 5, 2011, 11:26 PM
Post #43 of 46
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rtwilli4 wrote: justroberto wrote: Rock Wars that's it. I knew The Rock Warrior sounded funny. Brain fart - maybe that's why I hadn't heard of it. Not that I've met many people who go to the Red to climb cracks, but most of the ones I've talked to have been on RW. Some even do it without getting on Autumn, which is just craziness.
You're right, not many people climbing cracks or any trad at the Red, which is insane. I thought the stuff at the Gold Coast was great, and Long Wall was amazing. B3 and that long .10 next to it... classic. There was a cool sport climb up there too.
I agree that the trad at the Red is really good. It's just that when compared to the excellent sport climbing it pales in comparison. Personally, I think the trad at the New is way better than at the Red.
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rtwilli4
Jan 5, 2011, 11:42 PM
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I haven't climbed enough trad at the Red to compare, but it seemed like last time I looked at the Guidebook there were tons of cracks at the Red that looked great. More splitter than the ones at the New... maybe that's not always a good thing though.
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j_ung
Jan 6, 2011, 5:48 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: justroberto wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Yep The Greatest Show is Lynn Hill. Not sure who got the FA on Proper Soul but Brent Perkins did it on gear last fall and rated it 14a r/x. Craziness! Flyin' Brian. There's a mention of it in the history section of one of the guidebooks, but I don't remember which one. Maybe the Cater... Either way, I think Supercrack may be the only one at the New that many people who haven't climbed there would know about. Sort of like Ro Shampo or WTOK at the Red, which I've heard far more chatter about than Rock Warrior. Along with the stuff at Rumney, they're not really on par with most of the others mentioned here. Ahh yes, the "Supercrack" of the east. That was the picture that drew attention to the New correct? Seems weird that the picture was of the "second pitch" finish that no one even does anymore. I can't say anything about the quality of the hard routes at Rumney... I just meant that they are well known because of their grade at the time of their ascents. I guess in the sport climbing world they are famous, but that wasn't really the question.
Photo Finish! But even that I don't think really qualifies.
This is subjective, of course, but to qualify as "most famous," I really think people ought to be able to recognize the name of it and what it looks like. For example, climbers the world over can see an unlabeled picture of it and know what it is.
To me, so far in this thread, that's, like, the Nose, the Totem Pole and maybe High E.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 6, 2011, 6:01 PM)
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rtwilli4
Jan 6, 2011, 6:43 PM
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j_ung wrote: This is subjective, of course, but to qualify as "most famous," I really think people ought to be able to recognize the name of it and what it looks like. For example, climbers the world over can see an unlabeled picture of it and know what it is. To me, so far in this thread, that's, like, the Nose, the Totem Pole and maybe High E.
Under that pretense I think a few of Sharma's routes qualify, namely Jumbo Love and Es Pontas.
The Nose qualifies because all climbers know El Cap... but I'm not sure how many people could name the climb from a close up picture.
So if the Nose counts, then so does any route on the Diamond or Devil's Tower. Those landmarks are just as recognizable as El Cap. Same with Castleton Tower.
Supercrack in IC is known the world over... but by the wrong name (Luxury Liner is the real name).
Midnight Lightening goes on the list as well.
(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Jan 6, 2011, 6:44 PM)
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