Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


USnavy


Jan 5, 2011, 12:36 PM
Post #1 of 12 (4145 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Somehow I doubt that Metolius distributes these (I know they don’t make them). Drop-in anchors are generally not a good choice for climbing bolts and the ASCA specifically recommends against using them on their website. So WTF?

http://www.campsaver.com/concrete-anchors

http://www.campsaver.com/setting-tool

edit: It says Hilti in the description. Nice one Camp Saver...


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 5, 2011, 12:43 PM)


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 1:10 PM
Post #2 of 12 (4109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Email Metolius.


sbaclimber


Jan 5, 2011, 1:15 PM
Post #3 of 12 (4097 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118

Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

USnavy wrote:
Somehow I doubt that Metolius distributes these (I know they don’t make them). Drop-in anchors are generally not a good choice for climbing bolts and the ASCA specifically recommends against using them on their website. So WTF?

http://www.campsaver.com/concrete-anchors

http://www.campsaver.com/setting-tool

edit: It says Hilti in the description. Nice one Camp Saver...

Campsaver wrote:
Description

The Hilti Drop In (HDI) system allows you to bolt holds onto an existing concrete wall, but you should technically check with an engineer before you start drilling. These bad boys are sold individually. *Setting tool sold separately.
.....I am not sure what you are so worked up about...Crazy


jman


Jan 5, 2011, 1:22 PM
Post #4 of 12 (4088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 438

Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 1:38 PM
Post #5 of 12 (4077 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [jman] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.


sbaclimber


Jan 5, 2011, 1:48 PM
Post #6 of 12 (4067 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118

Re: [sungam] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky

Edit x2: ^^ actually directed at USNavy. sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 5, 2011, 1:50 PM)


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 1:50 PM
Post #7 of 12 (4063 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:
sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH.


Khoi


Jan 5, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #8 of 12 (3952 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294

Re: Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Given how this turned out, why am I not surprised it was started by USNavy


jeepnphreak


Jan 5, 2011, 5:48 PM
Post #9 of 12 (3941 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:
sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky

Edit x2: ^^ actually directed at USNavy. sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue

Ill be damned, some one else who checked Metolius's web site.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 6:52 PM
Post #10 of 12 (3888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804

Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:
sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue
You are korekt. It's almost 7p.m., I'm still in my P.J.'s, I've only been awake 4 or so hours and I'm already thinking of going back to bed. blegh, I feel really crappy today.


the_climber


Jan 12, 2011, 12:01 AM
Post #11 of 12 (3615 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [sungam] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

If memory serves me correctly, the SS Hilti 1/2 diameter Drop-in anchors are the only Hilti bolts specifically rated for rock. They also have a higher rating in shear than the 3/8" Quickbolt.

I've used the Hilti Drop-in's, they work great. I'll use them on slab, but I still prefer to use 3/8"x3" Quick bolts on vertical to overhanging rock (personal preference with how the bolts work) or on softer limestone (where depth of placement is more of a factor).
Porous rock such as Limestone reefs (ie. Grassi Lakes, Alberta - devonian reef formation) or Sandstone (Arizona, Zion, ...) are best bolted with glue in bolts. In some cases with Sandstone glued in drilled angle may be the best choice.

There are many bolts that can make good choices if used correctly, however, there is no one bolt that is best in all rock/situations.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 12, 2011, 8:00 PM)


uni_jim


Jan 12, 2011, 5:07 AM
Post #12 of 12 (3496 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429

Re: [the_climber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

have you bolted in Grassi? If so, good on you, I't not a project I'd want to take on!


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook