Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing:
First time in Yosemite....sport climbing?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Sport Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


robx


Jan 10, 2011, 7:39 PM
Post #1 of 42 (15892 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 10, 2011
Posts: 108

First time in Yosemite....sport climbing?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

is there even sport there?
I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with.

any tips?

we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock.


uni_jim


Jan 10, 2011, 7:43 PM
Post #2 of 42 (15886 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors.


England


Jan 10, 2011, 7:46 PM
Post #3 of 42 (15882 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 13

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robx wrote:
is there even sport there?
I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with.

any tips?

we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock.
I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote!


robx


Jan 10, 2011, 7:47 PM
Post #4 of 42 (15882 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 10, 2011
Posts: 108

Re: [uni_jim] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That's so awesome to hear.
I know I'm not doing it "right" by sticking sport, but I'm just more comfortable with it, and I'd rather be safe than go all out.

anyone know any specifics? or more importantly, general area we should stick with? we need to reserve a trailhead or whatever (planning on backcountry camping, no car camping).

Also, has anyone messed with buying a climbing pad while in a city and then selling it on craigslist? might be cheaper than us paying the oversized luggage fee or shipping it.


robx


Jan 10, 2011, 7:49 PM
Post #5 of 42 (15880 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 10, 2011
Posts: 108

Re: [England] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

England wrote:
I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote!

Yeah yeah I know. I explained above, it's just a safety and comfort-level choice. do you really want someone that isn't great doing trad up there?


England


Jan 10, 2011, 7:57 PM
Post #6 of 42 (15874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 13

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robx wrote:
England wrote:
I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote!

Yeah yeah I know. I explained above, it's just a safety and comfort-level choice. do you really want someone that isn't great doing trad up there?
Buy, or borrow a Supertopo guide(I think they also have a sport climbing edition, but not sure), it will give you all the beta you seek. The Valley has some great moderate trad routes. Grack Crack, After Six, and After Seven are a few that come to mind. Good Luck.


England


Jan 10, 2011, 8:01 PM
Post #7 of 42 (15866 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 13

Re: [uni_jim] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

uni_jim wrote:
There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors.
Unfortunately this is not true. Like most climbing areas bolts are springing up everywere to accomidate the, "I need safety, and climbing is for everyone crowd".


(This post was edited by England on Jan 10, 2011, 8:33 PM)


dugl33


Jan 10, 2011, 8:36 PM
Post #8 of 42 (15840 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

robx wrote:
is there even sport there?
I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with.

any tips?

we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock.

As far as Yosemite goes, you'd be better off calling it "not too run out bolt protected face climbing". There is some of this, although the pickings will be slim if you're not climbing 5.10 or better. Some bolted routes might require a few gear placements here and there as well.

Also don't expect the routes to all magically be 30 meters or less and equipped with maximum convenience hardware like mussy hooks or cold shuts.

Cheers.


uni_jim


Jan 10, 2011, 8:51 PM
Post #9 of 42 (15820 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429

Re: [England] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

England wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors.
Unfortunately this is not true. Like most climbing areas bolts are springing up everywere to accomidate the, "I need safety, and climbing is for everyone crowd".


When I visited this past fall, I found myself climbing a couple bolted routes, and there were hundreds of n00bs toproping, so yes, there ARE opportunities for those who are not competent gear climbers.


thestatusquo


Jan 10, 2011, 8:53 PM
Post #10 of 42 (15817 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 27, 2005
Posts: 38

Post deleted by thestatusquo [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  

 


vegastradguy


Jan 10, 2011, 9:19 PM
Post #11 of 42 (15802 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [thestatusquo] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport?

Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging.

Swan slabs. Go have fun.


robx


Jan 10, 2011, 9:29 PM
Post #12 of 42 (15794 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 10, 2011
Posts: 108

Re: [vegastradguy] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

vegastradguy wrote:
No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport?

Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging.

Swan slabs. Go have fun.

I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.


OCD


Jan 10, 2011, 9:42 PM
Post #13 of 42 (15785 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2010
Posts: 45

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

LOwer meca I think is what it is called lower cathedral there are some up near medicot dome in the medows, but be prepared, if you only climb 5.10 then you should only TR, sport route in the valley are hard and they should be since it is YOSEMITE, bring gear! climb cracks in the valley


byran


Jan 10, 2011, 9:53 PM
Post #14 of 42 (15775 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Chapel Wall has some high quality sport lines in the 5.11-5.13 range. Shade most of the day. The bases of Middle Cathedral and Lower Cathedral are also places to look. If you're looking for sunnier exposure, Schultz's Ridge has probably the highest concentration, but you'll also find sport climbs scattered around the Bishop Terrace and Royal Arches area.

The lower Merced canyon is also peppered with sport climbs, most of which are warmer. Cookie Monster is my favorite, although it probably never should have been bolted.

Overall, I'd say it's well worth bringing a rope and set of quick draws (and also some long webbing, since you can set up many topropes off of trees). Even though the splitter cracks and big walls are the main attraction in Yosemite, there's still easily 100+ honest-to-God sport climbs. Most of them are mungy and obscure "locals only" sort of routes, but they're fun none-the-less. And it sure beats the hell out of following an ant trail of tourists up 3 miles of switchbacks in the sweltering heat.


(This post was edited by byran on Jan 10, 2011, 10:27 PM)


dugl33


Jan 10, 2011, 10:25 PM
Post #15 of 42 (15757 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Knuckleheads -- Pat and Jack
Skinheads
Boneheads
Makalayas
Just for Starters -- Knob Hill
Nickel Bag -- Five and Dime
Bijou
Mockery
Are you hard enough -- Schultzs Ridge Base
Just do me
Hooter alert
Crystaline Passage
Gidget goes to Yosemite
Haleys Comet -- Manure Pile
Pole Position -- Church Bowl
Energizer
Crest Jewel -- multipitch bolted slab on north dome
Snake Dike (minimal rack, huge approach)
Poker Face
Cold Fusion
Ramer

Lower Cathedral Base -- minimal rack
Elephant Rock -- hard sport
The cookie -- some hard sport
Chapel Wall -- some hard sport.

This might give you something to research on mountain project, but you'll want to confirm the character of the routes and any gear requirements yourself!!!


rtwilli4


Jan 10, 2011, 10:46 PM
Post #16 of 42 (15740 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robx wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport?

Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging.

Swan slabs. Go have fun.

I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.

So basically you tried to get away with blaming your partners when if fact you just don't climb unless there are bolts.


vegastradguy


Jan 11, 2011, 7:28 AM
Post #17 of 42 (15687 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robx wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport?

Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging.

Swan slabs. Go have fun.

I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.

fwiw- valley granite is literally the most bomber rock in the world- it also eats cams and stoppers on alot of the easier stuff.

plenty of noobs (including myself once upon a time) get up plenty of 5.6/5.7 routes there. go be one of them. you'll be glad you did.


sungam


Jan 11, 2011, 7:41 AM
Post #18 of 42 (15678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26800

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

I guess I might as well be the first one to say it...


Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted?


Partner cracklover


Jan 11, 2011, 9:17 AM
Post #19 of 42 (15636 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

robx, have you said how hard you climb? A lot of people are saying 5.10, is this accurate?

Leaving that aside for the moment - there are a good number of places you could toprope, and some pretty fun stuff. Of course they'll be crowded.

I'll save the rest of my thoughts until I'm clear on how hard you climb.

GO


Partner cracklover


Jan 11, 2011, 9:24 AM
Post #20 of 42 (15634 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [robx] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Actually, forget about what I was going to say, it's not important.

Here's what you should do:

Do all the hiking you were planning with your buddies. You'll have a great time, it's a really gorgeous park.

And set one day aside to take a class with Yosemite Mountain Guides, or whatever they're called. Learn to climb trad. The more of your group you can get to sign up with you, the cheaper it will be.

My first time in Yosemite I took a one day class with them. I was just starting to climb, and I was there with a non-climbing friend. They were great, I learned a ton, and I honestly cannot think of anywhere in the world better for your first serious introduction to trad climbing. The place is so inspiring.

Then give yourself another day or two out of your hiking schedule right after your class to go head up to do some of the fantastic easy classics. The Grack as your first lead would be awesome!

Cheers,

GO


shoo


Jan 11, 2011, 9:34 AM
Post #21 of 42 (15623 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501

Re: [sungam] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
I guess I might as well be the first one to say it...


Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted?

<giggle>


socalclimber


Jan 11, 2011, 10:06 AM
Post #22 of 42 (15601 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: [cracklover] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
Actually, forget about what I was going to say, it's not important.

Here's what you should do:

Do all the hiking you were planning with your buddies. You'll have a great time, it's a really gorgeous park.

And set one day aside to take a class with Yosemite Mountain Guides, or whatever they're called. Learn to climb trad. The more of your group you can get to sign up with you, the cheaper it will be.

My first time in Yosemite I took a one day class with them. I was just starting to climb, and I was there with a non-climbing friend. They were great, I learned a ton, and I honestly cannot think of anywhere in the world better for your first serious introduction to trad climbing. The place is so inspiring.

Then give yourself another day or two out of your hiking schedule right after your class to go head up to do some of the fantastic easy classics. The Grack as your first lead would be awesome!

Cheers,

GO

The only sound pieces of advice on this thread have been from you and Vegastradguy.


areyoumydude


Jan 11, 2011, 10:18 AM
Post #23 of 42 (15589 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 1971

Re: [sungam] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
I guess I might as well be the first one to say it...


Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted?

Yeah, butt that one's hard.

Now Snake Dike is a more moderate bolted route.


spikeddem


Jan 11, 2011, 10:25 AM
Post #24 of 42 (15580 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [rtwilli4] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rtwilli4 wrote:
robx wrote:
vegastradguy wrote:
No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport?

Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging.

Swan slabs. Go have fun.

I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.

So basically you tried to get away with blaming your partners when if fact you just don't climb unless there are bolts.
Sellin' 'em down the river.


dugl33


Jan 11, 2011, 10:59 AM
Post #25 of 42 (15562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [cracklover] First time in Yosemite....sport climbing? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:


The Grack as your first lead would be awesome!

Yes lets make the noob train at the Grack as long as possible. Despite what some people seem to think the Grack does require some level of competence. Pre Supertopo 5 star flashing neon lights this was sort of a hidden gem where semi beginners could have an enjoyable climb.

Learn how to lead trad somewhere else. Seriously. You'll have half a dozen parties mumbling "hurry the f-up!" under their collective breath as you fumble about. Yes the climbing is easy if you have even basic crack climbing and slab skills but depending on where you end up for your pitch 2 anchor building said anchor requires some skill to do safely.

There are some one pitch beginner trad routes at swan slabs, first pitch of Jam Crack, Sunnyside Bench regular route, Knob Hill...

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Sport Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook