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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 3:39 AM
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is there even sport there? I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with. any tips? we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock.
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uni_jim
Jan 11, 2011, 3:43 AM
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There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors.
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England
Jan 11, 2011, 3:46 AM
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robx wrote: is there even sport there? I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with. any tips? we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock. I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote!
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 3:47 AM
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That's so awesome to hear. I know I'm not doing it "right" by sticking sport, but I'm just more comfortable with it, and I'd rather be safe than go all out. anyone know any specifics? or more importantly, general area we should stick with? we need to reserve a trailhead or whatever (planning on backcountry camping, no car camping). Also, has anyone messed with buying a climbing pad while in a city and then selling it on craigslist? might be cheaper than us paying the oversized luggage fee or shipping it.
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 3:49 AM
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England wrote: I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote! Yeah yeah I know. I explained above, it's just a safety and comfort-level choice. do you really want someone that isn't great doing trad up there?
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England
Jan 11, 2011, 3:57 AM
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robx wrote: England wrote: I think there is a guide book out there for sport climbing in the valley. However, it must be said. "Going to the valley to sport climb is extreme wankerism". Not my quote! Yeah yeah I know. I explained above, it's just a safety and comfort-level choice. do you really want someone that isn't great doing trad up there? Buy, or borrow a Supertopo guide(I think they also have a sport climbing edition, but not sure), it will give you all the beta you seek. The Valley has some great moderate trad routes. Grack Crack, After Six, and After Seven are a few that come to mind. Good Luck.
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England
Jan 11, 2011, 4:01 AM
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uni_jim wrote: There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors. Unfortunately this is not true. Like most climbing areas bolts are springing up everywere to accomidate the, "I need safety, and climbing is for everyone crowd".
(This post was edited by England on Jan 11, 2011, 4:33 AM)
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dugl33
Jan 11, 2011, 4:36 AM
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robx wrote: is there even sport there? I know I should be doing trad, but among other things, I'm not comfortable climbing trad with the people I'm there with. any tips? we're going more for the hiking, but are all avid climbers and it would be nice to spend some time on rock. As far as Yosemite goes, you'd be better off calling it "not too run out bolt protected face climbing". There is some of this, although the pickings will be slim if you're not climbing 5.10 or better. Some bolted routes might require a few gear placements here and there as well. Also don't expect the routes to all magically be 30 meters or less and equipped with maximum convenience hardware like mussy hooks or cold shuts. Cheers.
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uni_jim
Jan 11, 2011, 4:51 AM
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England wrote: uni_jim wrote: There are a few bolt protected routes, and lots of opportunity to top rope. You shoud bring the rack so you can at least build top rope anchors. Unfortunately this is not true. Like most climbing areas bolts are springing up everywere to accomidate the, "I need safety, and climbing is for everyone crowd". When I visited this past fall, I found myself climbing a couple bolted routes, and there were hundreds of n00bs toproping, so yes, there ARE opportunities for those who are not competent gear climbers.
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thestatusquo
Jan 11, 2011, 4:53 AM
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vegastradguy
Jan 11, 2011, 5:19 AM
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No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport? Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging. Swan slabs. Go have fun.
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robx
Jan 11, 2011, 5:29 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport? Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging. Swan slabs. Go have fun. I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff.
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OCD
Jan 11, 2011, 5:42 AM
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LOwer meca I think is what it is called lower cathedral there are some up near medicot dome in the medows, but be prepared, if you only climb 5.10 then you should only TR, sport route in the valley are hard and they should be since it is YOSEMITE, bring gear! climb cracks in the valley
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byran
Jan 11, 2011, 5:53 AM
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Chapel Wall has some high quality sport lines in the 5.11-5.13 range. Shade most of the day. The bases of Middle Cathedral and Lower Cathedral are also places to look. If you're looking for sunnier exposure, Schultz's Ridge has probably the highest concentration, but you'll also find sport climbs scattered around the Bishop Terrace and Royal Arches area. The lower Merced canyon is also peppered with sport climbs, most of which are warmer. Cookie Monster is my favorite, although it probably never should have been bolted. Overall, I'd say it's well worth bringing a rope and set of quick draws (and also some long webbing, since you can set up many topropes off of trees). Even though the splitter cracks and big walls are the main attraction in Yosemite, there's still easily 100+ honest-to-God sport climbs. Most of them are mungy and obscure "locals only" sort of routes, but they're fun none-the-less. And it sure beats the hell out of following an ant trail of tourists up 3 miles of switchbacks in the sweltering heat.
(This post was edited by byran on Jan 11, 2011, 6:27 AM)
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dugl33
Jan 11, 2011, 6:25 AM
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Knuckleheads -- Pat and Jack Skinheads Boneheads Makalayas Just for Starters -- Knob Hill Nickel Bag -- Five and Dime Bijou Mockery Are you hard enough -- Schultzs Ridge Base Just do me Hooter alert Crystaline Passage Gidget goes to Yosemite Haleys Comet -- Manure Pile Pole Position -- Church Bowl Energizer Crest Jewel -- multipitch bolted slab on north dome Snake Dike (minimal rack, huge approach) Poker Face Cold Fusion Ramer Lower Cathedral Base -- minimal rack Elephant Rock -- hard sport The cookie -- some hard sport Chapel Wall -- some hard sport. This might give you something to research on mountain project, but you'll want to confirm the character of the routes and any gear requirements yourself!!!
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rtwilli4
Jan 11, 2011, 6:46 AM
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robx wrote: vegastradguy wrote: No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport? Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging. Swan slabs. Go have fun. I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff. So basically you tried to get away with blaming your partners when if fact you just don't climb unless there are bolts.
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vegastradguy
Jan 11, 2011, 3:28 PM
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robx wrote: vegastradguy wrote: No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport? Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging. Swan slabs. Go have fun. I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff. fwiw- valley granite is literally the most bomber rock in the world- it also eats cams and stoppers on alot of the easier stuff. plenty of noobs (including myself once upon a time) get up plenty of 5.6/5.7 routes there. go be one of them. you'll be glad you did.
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sungam
Jan 11, 2011, 3:41 PM
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I guess I might as well be the first one to say it... Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted?
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cracklover
Jan 11, 2011, 5:17 PM
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robx, have you said how hard you climb? A lot of people are saying 5.10, is this accurate? Leaving that aside for the moment - there are a good number of places you could toprope, and some pretty fun stuff. Of course they'll be crowded. I'll save the rest of my thoughts until I'm clear on how hard you climb. GO
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cracklover
Jan 11, 2011, 5:24 PM
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Actually, forget about what I was going to say, it's not important. Here's what you should do: Do all the hiking you were planning with your buddies. You'll have a great time, it's a really gorgeous park. And set one day aside to take a class with Yosemite Mountain Guides, or whatever they're called. Learn to climb trad. The more of your group you can get to sign up with you, the cheaper it will be. My first time in Yosemite I took a one day class with them. I was just starting to climb, and I was there with a non-climbing friend. They were great, I learned a ton, and I honestly cannot think of anywhere in the world better for your first serious introduction to trad climbing. The place is so inspiring. Then give yourself another day or two out of your hiking schedule right after your class to go head up to do some of the fantastic easy classics. The Grack as your first lead would be awesome! Cheers, GO
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shoo
Jan 11, 2011, 5:34 PM
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sungam wrote: I guess I might as well be the first one to say it... Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted? <giggle>
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socalclimber
Jan 11, 2011, 6:06 PM
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cracklover wrote: Actually, forget about what I was going to say, it's not important. Here's what you should do: Do all the hiking you were planning with your buddies. You'll have a great time, it's a really gorgeous park. And set one day aside to take a class with Yosemite Mountain Guides, or whatever they're called. Learn to climb trad. The more of your group you can get to sign up with you, the cheaper it will be. My first time in Yosemite I took a one day class with them. I was just starting to climb, and I was there with a non-climbing friend. They were great, I learned a ton, and I honestly cannot think of anywhere in the world better for your first serious introduction to trad climbing. The place is so inspiring. Then give yourself another day or two out of your hiking schedule right after your class to go head up to do some of the fantastic easy classics. The Grack as your first lead would be awesome! Cheers, GO The only sound pieces of advice on this thread have been from you and Vegastradguy.
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areyoumydude
Jan 11, 2011, 6:18 PM
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sungam wrote: I guess I might as well be the first one to say it... Isn't the Bacher-Yarien bolted? Yeah, butt that one's hard. Now Snake Dike is a more moderate bolted route.
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spikeddem
Jan 11, 2011, 6:25 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: robx wrote: vegastradguy wrote: No offense, but if you're not comfortable leading on gear with the people you're going with, that means you must not trust them to belay you properly, which begs the question- why would you trust them to belay you on sport? Fundamentally, theres no real difference between the two styles in terms of mechanics- so long as the leader is proficient in the style, the rest of the system more or less works the same for casual cragging. Swan slabs. Go have fun. I'm more comfortable climbing sport. I have complete trust in my belayer. I just wanted to know if it was worth it to bring a rope and draws or if I would be s.o.l. and carrying too much stuff. So basically you tried to get away with blaming your partners when if fact you just don't climb unless there are bolts. Sellin' 'em down the river.
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dugl33
Jan 11, 2011, 6:59 PM
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cracklover wrote: The Grack as your first lead would be awesome! Yes lets make the noob train at the Grack as long as possible. Despite what some people seem to think the Grack does require some level of competence. Pre Supertopo 5 star flashing neon lights this was sort of a hidden gem where semi beginners could have an enjoyable climb. Learn how to lead trad somewhere else. Seriously. You'll have half a dozen parties mumbling "hurry the f-up!" under their collective breath as you fumble about. Yes the climbing is easy if you have even basic crack climbing and slab skills but depending on where you end up for your pitch 2 anchor building said anchor requires some skill to do safely. There are some one pitch beginner trad routes at swan slabs, first pitch of Jam Crack, Sunnyside Bench regular route, Knob Hill...
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