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Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF?
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USnavy


Jan 5, 2011, 4:36 AM
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Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF?
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Somehow I doubt that Metolius distributes these (I know they donít make them). Drop-in anchors are generally not a good choice for climbing bolts and the ASCA specifically recommends against using them on their website. So WTF?

http://www.campsaver.com/concrete-anchors

http://www.campsaver.com/setting-tool

edit: It says Hilti in the description. Nice one Camp Saver...


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 5, 2011, 4:43 AM)


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 5:10 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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Email Metolius.


sbaclimber


Jan 5, 2011, 5:15 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
Somehow I doubt that Metolius distributes these (I know they donít make them). Drop-in anchors are generally not a good choice for climbing bolts and the ASCA specifically recommends against using them on their website. So WTF?

http://www.campsaver.com/concrete-anchors

http://www.campsaver.com/setting-tool

edit: It says Hilti in the description. Nice one Camp Saver...

Campsaver wrote:
Description

The Hilti Drop In (HDI) system allows you to bolt holds onto an existing concrete wall, but you should technically check with an engineer before you start drilling. These bad boys are sold individually. *Setting tool sold separately.
.....I am not sure what you are so worked up about...Crazy


jman


Jan 5, 2011, 5:22 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 5:38 AM
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Re: [jman] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.


sbaclimber


Jan 5, 2011, 5:48 AM
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Re: [sungam] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky

Edit x2: ^^ actually directed at USNavy. sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 5, 2011, 5:50 AM)


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 5:50 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH.


Khoi


Jan 5, 2011, 9:39 AM
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Re: Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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Given how this turned out, why am I not surprised it was started by USNavy


jeepnphreak


Jan 5, 2011, 9:48 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
sungam wrote:
jman wrote:
drop in anchors are intended to bolt into concrete and in the product description it indicates use with bolting holds...does not say anything about recommending for use to connect bolts.
It still seems to be jacking Metolius's brand name (if it turns out they don't make them) which is a pretty big deal.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html

I love the interwebz...reading comprehension fail, followed by jumping to wild conclusions! Wink

Edit: for clicky

Edit x2: ^^ actually directed at USNavy. sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue

Ill be damned, some one else who checked Metolius's web site.

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/concrete_anchors.html


sungam


Jan 5, 2011, 10:52 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
sungam, I know you are just playing along and too lazy and don't care enough to correct him Tongue
You are korekt. It's almost 7p.m., I'm still in my P.J.'s, I've only been awake 4 or so hours and I'm already thinking of going back to bed. blegh, I feel really crappy today.


the_climber


Jan 11, 2011, 4:01 PM
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Re: [sungam] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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If memory serves me correctly, the SS Hilti 1/2 diameter Drop-in anchors are the only Hilti bolts specifically rated for rock. They also have a higher rating in shear than the 3/8" Quickbolt.

I've used the Hilti Drop-in's, they work great. I'll use them on slab, but I still prefer to use 3/8"x3" Quick bolts on vertical to overhanging rock (personal preference with how the bolts work) or on softer limestone (where depth of placement is more of a factor).
Porous rock such as Limestone reefs (ie. Grassi Lakes, Alberta - devonian reef formation) or Sandstone (Arizona, Zion, ...) are best bolted with glue in bolts. In some cases with Sandstone glued in drilled angle may be the best choice.

There are many bolts that can make good choices if used correctly, however, there is no one bolt that is best in all rock/situations.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 12, 2011, 12:00 PM)


uni_jim


Jan 11, 2011, 9:07 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Metolius drop-in anchors?! WTF? [In reply to]
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have you bolted in Grassi? If so, good on you, I't not a project I'd want to take on!


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