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Cam on limestone
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uni_jim


Jan 13, 2011, 11:06 AM
Post #26 of 34 (2205 views)
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Re: [rtwilli4] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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rtwilli4 wrote:
uni_jim wrote:
Limestone, in my experience, almost never will give you a "perfect" parallel crack. You will have pods or edges that you can use to your advantage, turning your cam into a nut with an expansion range. Learn how to use these and the cam angle won't make a lick of difference. I have fallen on cams in limestone, and not one has pulled. You just gotta learn how to use em!

But in that case wouldn't you just use hexes? Wink

In my experience cams are OK but tricams nuts and hexes are better. But I've only climbed on limestone in Asia.


Hexes get used! On long limestone roues, I'll have a selection of hexes and tricams to compliment nuts and cams.


davidbr


Jan 15, 2011, 3:23 AM
Post #27 of 34 (2144 views)
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Re: [camhead] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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Camhead - that picture makes me want to weep. Where was it taken?


phang_nga


Jan 16, 2011, 6:25 AM
Post #28 of 34 (2106 views)
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Re: [rtwilli4] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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rtwilli4 wrote:
I'm no scientist but it would seem that more surface area would mean just that... more friction. Am I wrong?

Not necessarily the desired effect. Sometimes you want a point to dig into the rock. That's why tricams are so good in limestone. I use tricams primarily in the limestone in Thailand. I use nuts too, but seldom do I use cams.

Tricams don't usually move on me. I admit that I'm super careful when placing them.


Partner camhead


Jan 16, 2011, 8:45 AM
Post #29 of 34 (2089 views)
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Re: [davidbr] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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davidbr wrote:
Camhead - that picture makes me want to weep. Where was it taken?

It's a 5.9 corner in Potrero Chico called "Dead Man Walking." Probably the best single pitch line of the grade there. I've led it on bolts and gear. The logic behind the bolts was that almost nobody brings a rack to Potrero.


davidbr


Jan 19, 2011, 7:24 AM
Post #30 of 34 (1993 views)
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Re: [camhead] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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I know Potrero, but don't know the route. Was it put up recently? Where is it?


Partner camhead


Jan 19, 2011, 11:42 AM
Post #31 of 34 (1954 views)
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Re: [davidbr] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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davidbr wrote:
I know Potrero, but don't know the route. Was it put up recently? Where is it?

it's called Dead Man Walking, at the Dihedrals. It's been up for at least 10 years.


davidbr


Jan 20, 2011, 11:33 AM
Post #32 of 34 (1912 views)
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Re: [camhead] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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Yeah, yeah - I think i know the route now. Didn't recognise it. Thanks!


guangzhou


Jan 20, 2011, 6:21 PM
Post #33 of 34 (1884 views)
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Re: [davidbr] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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I must be doing something wrong, so many people claim that cams are faster then nuts and hexes.

In my experience, nuts and cams are both easy and quick, and hexes are 50/50 on how fast they get placed.

Practice placing nuts and hexes and they won't slow you done to much if the placement are not parallel.


bearbreeder


Jan 21, 2011, 12:21 AM
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Re: [guangzhou] Cam on limestone [In reply to]
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thats probably because most people rack nuts on single biner ...

if i rack my nuts and tricams each separately theyre about as fast as cams for me as well ... but i never do ...

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