Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Indoor Gyms:
Setting up a lead course
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Indoor Gyms

Premier Sponsor:

 


mgsmith88


Jan 20, 2011, 11:10 PM
Post #1 of 12 (4404 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 20, 2011
Posts: 1

Setting up a lead course
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am adventure director at a summer camp. We have an alpine tower, which is a tripod of wood logs about 75 ft up with a platform on top and climbing holds and various hanging obstacles. I am interested in setting up a line for lead climbing, pretty much for myself and a few other staff members. Does anyone have any experience creating one and can lend some advice? Distance between clip ins? Best materials?


jt512


Jan 20, 2011, 11:26 PM
Post #2 of 12 (4394 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (9 ratings)  
Can't Post

mgsmith88 wrote:
I am adventure director at a summer camp. We have an alpine tower, which is a tripod of wood logs about 75 ft up with a platform on top and climbing holds and various hanging obstacles. I am interested in setting up a line for lead climbing, pretty much for myself and a few other staff members. Does anyone have any experience creating one and can lend some advice? Distance between clip ins? Best materials?

"Adventure director," "alpine tower." Those are good.

Jay


dugl33


Jan 20, 2011, 11:44 PM
Post #3 of 12 (4379 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Your undertaking seems a little ill-advised. Maybe I'm wrong. Either way, some pics would help.


benmoreite


Jan 21, 2011, 2:06 AM
Post #4 of 12 (4326 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2006
Posts: 64

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

When you say alpine tower, I assume you mean this: http://www.alpinetowers.com/photos/atseries.html

If you do, I would say you should contact Alpine Tower and ask them about lead climbing. If its not one of their designs, well, I still say contact the course builder.

Otherwise, try contacting the ACCT (http://www.acctinfo.org).
You can also try contacting Project Adventure (http://www.pa.org). They sell these
and these

edit to make clicky


(This post was edited by benmoreite on Jan 21, 2011, 2:08 AM)


tower_climber


Jan 22, 2011, 2:38 AM
Post #5 of 12 (4249 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 157

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

First of all:

Lead climbing, especially on a tower, is a dangerous activity that should only be undertaken by climbers with extensive experience with climbing and with the tower itself.

With that said, here is my advice. I have extensive experience with towers and their design particulars. It is possible to set up a lead-climbing route using the tower as a base for anchors.

I am not going to go over how to set up a system like this, because it is something that should be taught by ATI or a rep from ACCT. That is how I learned and the only way I would recommend going about it.

But before you even contact an official agency to talk about this, you need to realize several things.

First of all, none of the rope supplied with your tower is suitable for leading on. And I highly doubt that whatever camp you work for will allow the use of a personal rope.

Secondly, leading on a tower is something that is only recommended as a maintenance function, and then only if absolutely necessary. I have lead towers when the P-cord haul lines have come down, as it is safer than free climbing.

Third, you need to be very clear with your camp administration about what you're planning on doing. Alpine programs in general are huge insurance issues. Doing non-typical things on the tower might not be acceptable, even if only staff are using it.

Finally, be very careful about experimenting on the tower. 80% of the accident I hear about and see on towers and challenge courses are due to staff saying "we're bored, how can we liven things up?" This kind of thinking gets people hurt and can get people killed.

Seek qualified, in-person instruction before attempting any kind of leading on your tower. If you would like some contacts for training, PM me. I'd be happy to help.


tower_climber


Jan 22, 2011, 2:40 AM
Post #6 of 12 (4248 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 157

Re: [jt512] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

Really Jay? I enjoy reading most of your posts. But if you simply have no idea about a topic there are options. You could simply not post in the thread.


jt512


Jan 22, 2011, 3:23 AM
Post #7 of 12 (4234 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [tower_climber] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:
Really Jay? I enjoy reading most of your posts. But if you simply have no idea about a topic there are options. You could simply not post in the thread.

I exercised an option. No one says you have to like it.

Jay


dindolino32


Jan 22, 2011, 3:58 AM
Post #8 of 12 (4219 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 3, 2008
Posts: 155

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My new boss at our climbing gym touts that she was a director of a ropes course in our local area. Even though she can say big words like 1. belay, 2. auto-belay, and 3. belay device, she has no real understanding of climbing, technique, or what makes something safe or unsafe. I don't want to assume too much, however the resume of ropes course seems lacking of.... experience. Certainly wouldn't trust anything that she has created or built.


benmoreite


Jan 22, 2011, 3:13 PM
Post #9 of 12 (4153 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2006
Posts: 64

Re: [tower_climber] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:
Really Jay? I enjoy reading most of your posts. But if you simply have no idea about a topic there are options. You could simply not post in the thread.

Whatever, I laughed.


guangzhou


Jan 24, 2011, 2:24 AM
Post #10 of 12 (4049 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [dindolino32] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Two different worlds for sure. What I wonder is, if you're so much more knowledgeable able safety and running a gym program, why is she manager and not you?

Managing and climbing are two different worlds too.


tower_climber


Jan 25, 2011, 8:04 PM
Post #11 of 12 (3981 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 157

Re: [mgsmith88] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Because I'm worried that someone might read parts of my post out of context, I'll add in one more tidbit.

The tower construction itself is not appropriate for bolting in lead anchors. Do not attempt to attach anchors using lag screws. These screws and the wood construction of the tower are not rated to hold falls.

Bolting on holds with the lag screws is fine because the holds will never be expected to hold a fall. But an anchor is likely to rip the screw right out of the wood.


dindolino32


Jan 30, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #12 of 12 (3905 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 3, 2008
Posts: 155

Re: [guangzhou] Setting up a lead course [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have a full time job in the health care field that pays well. Her job entails managing the kids daycare and activities. This just happens to be in the umbrella of the rock gym. Trust me, I am not underestimating her climbing knowledge. She thinks that auto locking biners that no longer lock just need some WD-40 to fix it. Really they are just worn out from the kids using them for the past 2 years.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Indoor Gyms

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook