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LostinMaine
Jan 31, 2011, 5:04 PM
Post #26 of 86
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8 This. Also: Madam G's (5.6) Gunks (puts High E to shame) Screaming Meanie (5.8ish) Roger's Rock (for the paddle and the company that day) Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9ish) Acadia (such a great roof pull) That's all for now.
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caughtinside
Jan 31, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #27 of 86
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enigma wrote: caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c. Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time. Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks? It has a two or three move crux of .10c. Another 30 feet of 10a or so on the route. And like 600 feet of sustained 5.9.
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cracklover
Jan 31, 2011, 6:03 PM
Post #28 of 86
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I guess if I had to decide I'd go with my most recent favorite: the Naked Edge. GO
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moose_droppings
Jan 31, 2011, 7:41 PM
Post #29 of 86
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As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 31, 2011, 8:15 PM
Post #30 of 86
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sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.
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cchas
Jan 31, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #31 of 86
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
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Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts. It has a bit of everything p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete. p2: a stunning splitter offset flake p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems p4 fingers to tight hands p5 upto fists and the position in the canyon can't be beat
(This post was edited by cchas on Jan 31, 2011, 8:31 PM)
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enigma
Feb 1, 2011, 7:08 AM
Post #32 of 86
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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cchas wrote: Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts. It has a bit of everything p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete. p2: a stunning splitter offset flake p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems p4 fingers to tight hands p5 upto fists and the position in the canyon can't be beat Sounds great! I always wanted to climb in Sedona it just looks beautiful. thanks
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enigma
Feb 1, 2011, 7:41 AM
Post #33 of 86
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moose_droppings wrote: As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun. When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info
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rsmillbern
Feb 1, 2011, 10:03 AM
Post #34 of 86
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 319
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the last thing I climbed :-) The Daddy 5.6 (Linnville Gorge NC) is pretty good. I love taking newer climbers on this one. Große Micheluzzi 5.10a (Piz Ciavazes : Süd Tirol : Italy) was pretty nice as well. Grover 5.8 (Laurel Knob NC)
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sungam
Feb 1, 2011, 12:52 PM
Post #35 of 86
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time. An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!" I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.
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chadnsc
Feb 1, 2011, 5:24 PM
Post #37 of 86
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Hard to pick but I'd say Conn Diagonal. Not the tallest or toughest but I like it.
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erisspirit
Feb 1, 2011, 5:31 PM
Post #38 of 86
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 3770
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Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.
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edge
Feb 1, 2011, 5:32 PM
Post #39 of 86
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My favorites list is pretty diverse. VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Stoners Highway, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite Misty Beethoven, Yosemite Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo Yellow Spur, Eldo Fat City, RMNP Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton Wild Women, Cathedral Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix Fafnir, Cannon To name a few
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jupiter
Feb 1, 2011, 5:34 PM
Post #40 of 86
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Registered: Feb 26, 2007
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In no particular order 1. Lone Star (11a, 21pitches by the book) Red Rock 2. Myopia (11a, 9p) Elephant's Perch 3. Positive Vibrations (11a, 12p or so) Incredible Hulk, Sierra Nevada 4. Sunshine Cracks (11a, 10p?) Bugaboos 5. Grand Wall (11a, 10p?) Squamish 6. Don Juan Wall (11b, 5p) Needles, Ca 7. Atlantis (11+, 4p) Needles, CA
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jmeizis
Feb 1, 2011, 6:20 PM
Post #42 of 86
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
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That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite: Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time) Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me) Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing) Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte) Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.) There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 2, 2011, 2:57 AM
Post #43 of 86
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa! I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time. An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!" I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either. I feel a bit foolish now that's he's also mentioned it as a favorite too. ^^
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uni_jim
Feb 2, 2011, 3:39 AM
Post #44 of 86
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
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The Grand Sentinal, 5.8 - Banff The Nutcracker, 5.8 - Yosemite Wicked Wanda, W4 - The Ghost Louise Falls, W4+ - Banff Cascade Falls, W3 - Banff Can't realy "rate" how fun a route is, but there were BIG smiles on top of these.
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cush
Feb 2, 2011, 6:32 AM
Post #45 of 86
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Registered: Oct 2, 2008
Posts: 320
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don't have too much experience on long routes. most of the routes at the gunks are only 1-2 pitches but gamesmanship on pokomoonshine in the dacks was fantastic, as was el matador on devil's tower.
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michaelj2
Feb 2, 2011, 7:10 AM
Post #46 of 86
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 27
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My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights: Positive Vibes, The Hulk Astroman, The Valley Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins) Freeway, Squamish The Vampire, Tahquitz Slipstream, Icefields Parkway Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)
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enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:24 AM
Post #47 of 86
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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edge wrote: My favorites list is pretty diverse. VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Stoners Highway, Yosemite Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite Misty Beethoven, Yosemite Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo Yellow Spur, Eldo Fat City, RMNP Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton Wild Women, Cathedral Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix Fafnir, Cannon To name a few Nice Variety, Boy you have been around !! thanks
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enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:26 AM
Post #48 of 86
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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curt wrote: caughtinside wrote: Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c. I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8. [img]http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/Irenes-Arete.jpg[/img] On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons. Curt Beautiful Photo - Arete's are great!!
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guangzhou
Feb 2, 2011, 7:31 AM
Post #49 of 86
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire The Line at Lover's Leap Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route Humanity Tonsai (Thailand) Tower I Spikul Indonesia Guide's Route Grand Tetons Loved them all
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Feb 2, 2011, 7:32 AM)
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enigma
Feb 2, 2011, 7:39 AM
Post #50 of 86
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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jmeizis wrote: That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite: Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time) Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me) Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing) Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte) Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.) There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again. Thanks for the beta as well. Its always great to get before you are halfway up and hear this route is terrible. Especially when the guide book isn't helpful. Is Black Canyon your favorite area in Colorado? Did you ever climb that Painted Wall, that was a well written trip report though it sounded a little dicey to climb.
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