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LostinMaine


Jan 31, 2011, 9:04 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Moby Grape, Cannon cliff, NH, 5.8

This.

Also:
Madam G's (5.6) Gunks (puts High E to shame)
Screaming Meanie (5.8ish) Roger's Rock (for the paddle and the company that day)
Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9ish) Acadia (such a great roof pull)

That's all for now.


caughtinside


Jan 31, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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enigma wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

Tuolumne is a mellow area, I've climbed a few times there and always had a good time.
Is it 10c throughout all the pitches or is it just one 5.10c move on Lucky Streaks?

It has a two or three move crux of .10c. Another 30 feet of 10a or so on the route. And like 600 feet of sustained 5.9.


Partner cracklover


Jan 31, 2011, 10:03 AM
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Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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I guess if I had to decide I'd go with my most recent favorite: the Naked Edge.

GO


moose_droppings


Jan 31, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.


Gmburns2000


Jan 31, 2011, 12:15 PM
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Re: [sungam] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool


cchas


Jan 31, 2011, 12:28 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts.

It has a bit of everything

p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an arete.
p2: a stunning splitter offset flake
p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems
p4 fingers to tight hands
p5 upto fists

and the position in the canyon can't be beat


(This post was edited by cchas on Jan 31, 2011, 12:31 PM)


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 11:08 PM
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Re: [cchas] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:
Shangri-la in Sedona. How many pitches.... well, in the guidebook its 5 (which I;'ve done it that way). Have also done it as a 3 pitch route and as a two pitch route. Belayed Mike when he did it without the bolts and am now wondering if you can do it as 2 pitches without the bolts.

It has a bit of everything

p1 tips crack but you heel hook and bump up an
arete.
p2: a stunning splitter offset flake
p3: hard tips to powerful wide stems
p4 fingers to tight hands
p5 upto fists

and the position in the canyon can't be beat

Sounds great! I always wanted to climb in Sedona it just looks beautiful. thanks Smile


enigma


Jan 31, 2011, 11:41 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
As much as I like the International Chimney route on Spire 3 for the perch on top, I'm going to go with the Conn Diagonal behind Sylvan Lake. Maybe it's because of all the different people I've taken up it or all the good times I've had on that route. It sticks out clearly in my mind when I think of fun.

When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info


rsmillbern


Feb 1, 2011, 2:03 AM
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Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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the last thing I climbed :-)

The Daddy 5.6 (Linnville Gorge NC) is pretty good. I love taking newer climbers on this one.

Große Micheluzzi 5.10a (Piz Ciavazes : Süd Tirol : Italy) was pretty nice as well.

Grover 5.8 (Laurel Knob NC)


sungam


Feb 1, 2011, 4:52 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool
An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!"
I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.


moose_droppings


Feb 1, 2011, 9:16 AM
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Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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enigma wrote:
When is warm enough to climb there? Never been to South or North Dakota, Sounds like you have had some great times. Thanks for Info

It's supposed to get up to -2F today, come on up. Wink

April through October is usually mild enough for climbing, but our weather here is a crap shoot anytime of the year. The most consistent and predictable time time would be in September. Temps are comfortable, no bugs to speak of and the tourist have come and gone.


chadnsc


Feb 1, 2011, 9:24 AM
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Re: [enigma] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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Hard to pick but I'd say Conn Diagonal. Not the tallest or toughest but I like it.


erisspirit


Feb 1, 2011, 9:31 AM
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Sadly I don't have a lot of diversity yet in what multi pitch climbs I have done. I hope to fix this in the future

of the climbs I have done so far, I would say my favorites were either Open Book or Whodunit in tahquitz.


edge


Feb 1, 2011, 9:32 AM
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My favorites list is pretty diverse.

VMC Direct Direct on Cannon
Stoners Highway, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite
Misty Beethoven, Yosemite
Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo
Yellow Spur, Eldo
Fat City, RMNP
Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton
Wild Women, Cathedral
Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix
Fafnir, Cannon

To name a few


jupiter


Feb 1, 2011, 9:34 AM
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Re: [pyrosis] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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In no particular order
1. Lone Star (11a, 21pitches by the book) Red Rock
2. Myopia (11a, 9p) Elephant's Perch
3. Positive Vibrations (11a, 12p or so) Incredible Hulk, Sierra Nevada
4. Sunshine Cracks (11a, 10p?) Bugaboos
5. Grand Wall (11a, 10p?) Squamish
6. Don Juan Wall (11b, 5p) Needles, Ca
7. Atlantis (11+, 4p) Needles, CA


curt


Feb 1, 2011, 9:44 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8.



On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons.

Curt


jmeizis


Feb 1, 2011, 10:20 AM
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That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite:

Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time)

Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me)

Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing)

Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte)

Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.)

There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.


Gmburns2000


Feb 1, 2011, 6:57 PM
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Re: [sungam] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
sungam wrote:
Haha, and a special mention for Burnsy of River Tower. One of the more hilarious excuses for climbing I've been involved in. HaHa!

I didn't enjoy the climb that much, so I didn't list it as a favorite, but as a favorite moment with two of my best friends, yeah, that was a memorable three days. Everything about those days, from push-starting the car, to the suddenly shifting rope, to the "Give me slack I'm going to jump" moments, to the tyrolean traverse: that was a fun time.Cool
An adventure for sure. "Wait, you're gunna what?" "Slack!"
I've never been more proud of pathfinding then on the way out of there, either.

I feel a bit foolish now that's he's also mentioned it as a favorite too. ^^


uni_jim


Feb 1, 2011, 7:39 PM
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The Grand Sentinal, 5.8 - Banff
The Nutcracker, 5.8 - Yosemite
Wicked Wanda, W4 - The Ghost
Louise Falls, W4+ - Banff
Cascade Falls, W3 - Banff


Can't realy "rate" how fun a route is, but there were BIG smiles on top of these.


cush


Feb 1, 2011, 10:32 PM
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don't have too much experience on long routes. most of the routes at the gunks are only 1-2 pitches but gamesmanship on pokomoonshine in the dacks was fantastic, as was el matador on devil's tower.


michaelj2


Feb 1, 2011, 11:10 PM
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My favorite climbs all mean something different to me, depending on where it was during my climbing evolution, who I was with, or if I wasn't with anyone. Some personal highlights:

Positive Vibes, The Hulk
Astroman, The Valley
Wall of the Worlds, Cal Dome
Beckey-Chouinard, The Bugs
Nutcracker, The Valley (<20 mins)
Freeway, Squamish
The Vampire, Tahquitz
Slipstream, Icefields Parkway
Upper Weeping Wall, Icefields Parkway
Full Exum, The Tetons (<11 hrs c2c, onsight)


enigma


Feb 1, 2011, 11:24 PM
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Re: [edge] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
My favorites list is pretty diverse.

VMC Direct Direct on Cannon
Stoners Highway, Yosemite
Royal Arches to Crown Jewel, Yosemite
Misty Beethoven, Yosemite
Rosy Crucifixion to Italian Arete, Eldo
Yellow Spur, Eldo
Fat City, RMNP
Exum Ridge, Le Grand Teton
Wild Women, Cathedral
Le Ticket, Le Rond, Le Carre, et La Lune, Chamonix
Fafnir, Cannon

To name a few

Nice Variety, Boy you have been around !! thanks


enigma


Feb 1, 2011, 11:26 PM
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Re: [curt] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Lotta good ones, but I think I'd have to go with Lucky Streaks in tuolumne. 5 or 6 pitches, .10c.

I'll give a second vote for Lucky Streaks. And I'll add Irene's Arete, 5.8.

[img]http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/Irenes-Arete.jpg[/img]

On Disappointment Peak--in the Tetons.

Curt

Beautiful Photo - Arete's are great!!


guangzhou


Feb 1, 2011, 11:31 PM
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Serenity to Sons of yesterday- Yosemite
The Prow on Cathedral New Hampshire
The Line at Lover's Leap
Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass
Lurking Fear- Yosemite. One day, I will commit to trying a free ascent of this route
Humanity Tonsai (Thailand)
Tower I Spikul Indonesia
Guide's Route Grand Tetons


Loved them all


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Feb 1, 2011, 11:32 PM)


enigma


Feb 1, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Your Favorite Multi-Pitch Climb? [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
That's tough to pick. I guess I'll go with these five in order from most favorite:

Ramblin Rose 5.10a-S. Platte (awesome traverse on an easy flake to some in your face Platte slab climbing. Just really cool moves for a long time)

Fastest Gun 5.10a-Poko-Moonshine (cool climbing with a move where you can just cut your feet and enjoy the exposure, cool style of climbing for me)

Escape Artist 5.10a-Black Canyon (one of my first long multipitch "tens", just one of those cool moments of pushing doubt out of my head on something that was a little runout and at the time difficult for me to conceive of doing)

Center Route 5.9-South Platte (super sustained and bomber jams for a long time makes for a pumpy climb. A really pretty area of the Platte)

Wyrick-Merrel on River Tower 5.6 C2-Moab (although at the time of climbing I was sort of annoyed with the climb because I pretty much lead everything and we had to go back three days in a row for a freaking four pitch climb, we lost gear, and so on, it is one of the most memorable climbs ever aside from the North Face of Nez Perce. I don't want to ruin it but there's ancient hardware galore, nests of tiny gear in crap rock, easy runouts on really dangerous rock, wiggling fixed gear...oh and jumping. For full value I suggest taking someone who's never aid climbed before up it. The look of constant horror alone is worthwhile. Don't go in March either.)

There's more that some have already mentioned: Yellow Spur, Irene's Arete, Full Exum Ridge, Whitney Gilman Ridge, New Era, Kor's Flake, Mainliner, Kor-Ingalls, Fine Jade, too many classics to name. Can't wait for the warm weather again.

Thanks for the beta as well. Its always great to get before you are halfway up and hear this route is terrible. Especially when the guide book isn't helpful.
Is Black Canyon your favorite area in Colorado?
Did you ever climb that Painted Wall, that was a well written trip report though it sounded a little dicey to climb.

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