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kachoong
Feb 3, 2011, 8:17 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: kachoong wrote: Just curious, but how can a climb you haven't done be a favorite? Unless of course you've been on it but haven't finished it. Is that what you mean? Because of the way that you have built it up in your mind. Dont' tell me that you don't have those climbs that are on your ticklist that stand FAR above the rest. Obsession may be a more appropriate word to use. These are climbs that you know more about compared to other goals because you have researched them, maybe collected beta, maybe made special equipment purchases, or arranged vacations around. Josh
OK, I getcha. The title cromfuzed me a little but I kinda got the gist as I read through the replies.
And yeah, I certainly have them either through word of mouth (verbal and written) or read in books and researched. There are many... to name a few off the top of my head...
Rock:
Flight of the Phoenix on Bluff mountain, Warrumbungles
Serpentine on Taipan Wall - Grampians
Dream of Wild Turkeys - RR
Crimson Crysallis - RR
anything up The Hulk - Sierras
anything on the Spearhead - RMNP
Abracadaver at Cochise Stronghold
Mountaineering:
The Eiger North Face
Cassin Ridge on Denali
South Face of Mt Hicks
Any route to summit Mt Cook since I've failed five times, but nicest would be Sth Face.
North Ridge of Mt Robson
The Grand Teton Nth Face
Pervertical Sanctuary on the Diamond
Ice:
Slipstream
Hydrophobia
Gavarnie Falls
Terminator
...I guess the list isn't too long. 
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olderic
Feb 3, 2011, 8:34 PM
Post #27 of 49
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cracklover wrote: olderic wrote: The routes I aspire too and would be barely in reach on a stars aligned day (might be too late in my life now - probably in the could have/would have/should have category) are in the alpine category - Beckey - Chouinard in the Bugs and the Walker Spur in Cham. Interesting. Only alpine. Free routes like Naked Edge have been crossed off the list? I assure you, NE is worthwhile. In fact, I'll add it to my list as #5, since I haven't done it all clean. GO
Oh I have often fantasized about a "Colorado trilogy" where I would do the NE, Scenic Cruise and Casual Route (I did D7 - not free - long ago) on one trip. There is lots of stuff in the valley that I would like to do to, and around Moab... the list goes on. But the ones I named are the ones I feel I could "die happy" after doing - well that may be over stating it. I thought I'd feel that doing the Nose 33 years ago and I sort of did. I still feel that the late 70's were my prime. make this old man's rambling stop.
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cracklover
Feb 3, 2011, 8:41 PM
Post #28 of 49
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okay I think I see where you're coming from. You're in a different place, and have different goals.
Fair enough.
I only included one off my "it'll probably never happen" list. But it seems important to the spirit of climbing (at least my version of it) to hold tight to at least some wild aspirations, even as likelihood dwindles.
GO
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Gmburns2000
Feb 3, 2011, 8:45 PM
Post #29 of 49
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gblauer wrote: This is not really an answer to your question...but...I would really like to do a first ascent. I may have that opportunity when I head to AZ at the end of March.
+1
I just got my first one (kind of) recently and my goal before I leave Chile is to return and get another one, if not more.
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Taylorp.
Feb 4, 2011, 12:04 AM
Post #30 of 49
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The Bell 12.a R at Seneca Rocks. Hopefully i'll be able to climb it eventually, i've looked at many times. It always struck me as a beautiful route.
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mikebee
Feb 4, 2011, 1:44 AM
Post #31 of 49
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A few I can think of.
Some are way above my levels, others are doable, its just a case of getting there, sucking it up, and getting on the climb.
Rock:
The Flying Buttress, Moonarie Gap
Downwind of Angles, Moonarie Gap
Where Angels Fear to Tread, Mt Buffalo
Missing Link, Arapiles
Scorpion Crack, Arapiles
Skink, Arapiles
Passport to Insanity, The Grampians
Supercrack, Indian Creek
The Nose of El Capitan, Yoesmite
Ice (new the the ice climbing thing, hopefully have a better tick list in a couple of weeks)
Polar Circus
Mountains
Cerro Torre, Patagonia
Ellie de Beaumont, Mt Cook Area, New Zealand
Malte Brun, Mt Cook Area, New Zealand
Mt Aspiring, New Zealand
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johnwesely
Feb 4, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #32 of 49
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Why haven't you done Yellow Wall yet?
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jmeizis
Feb 4, 2011, 4:19 AM
Post #33 of 49
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These are the ones I'm aiming for this season
Colorado:
-Wunch's Dihedral
-Scenic Cruise
-Casual Route
-Pervetical Sanctuary
-Athlete's Feat
-Bishop Crack (probably not close on this but I'm building a finger crack training board for the specific purpose of being so damn good at finger cracks that I might have a chance)
Wyoming:
-El Matador
Utah:
-Fine Jade (fell off as a fledling crack climber, should go down easy this time)
-Lightning Bolt Cracks on N. Six Shooter
-North Face of Castleton
-Primrose Dihedrals
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jakedatc
Feb 4, 2011, 4:32 AM
Post #34 of 49
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Rumney: Technosurfing, finish Pump Up the Volume
Gunks: The Sting
hehe twist..
Cycling: Kanc from Conway -> lincoln this might be the easiest on the list
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 4, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #35 of 49
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jakedatc wrote: Rumney: Technosurfing, finish Pump Up the Volume Gunks: The Sting
Technosurfing is awesome. Have you been on it yet? Pump is not, however, I am surprised you haven't sent it yet. It seems like your style.
If we are at the Gunks at the same time I would be happy to work on the Sting with you.
In reply to: hehe twist.. Cycling: Kanc from Conway -> lincoln this might be the easiest on the list
I believe you want www.nocaresaboutcycling.com 
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 4, 2011, 2:20 PM
Post #36 of 49
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johnwesely wrote: Why haven't you done Yellow Wall yet?
Cuz I'm a-scared. I've been trying up my game and I haven't felt totally solid on easier 11's yet. Second, I know a lot of people just do up past the crux to the second pitch anchor, but I want to do the whole thing. The suggested way of doing the route is to link the 2 5.11 pitches, because if you don't you will have to do the crux of the 3rd pitch without any gear, factor 2ing onto the anchor.
I think when I do it, it might be a mid climb decision whether to stop at those anchors (and come down) or to keep going, depending on how I felt with the first crux.
This season, I should get on it. I would like to send Carbs and Caffeine, though, so I might get back on that first.
Josh
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johnwesely
Feb 4, 2011, 3:07 PM
Post #37 of 49
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blueeyedclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Why haven't you done Yellow Wall yet? Cuz I'm a-scared. I've been trying up my game and I haven't felt totally solid on easier 11's yet. Second, I know a lot of people just do up past the crux to the second pitch anchor, but I want to do the whole thing. The suggested way of doing the route is to link the 2 5.11 pitches, because if you don't you will have to do the crux of the 3rd pitch without any gear, factor 2ing onto the anchor. I think when I do it, it might be a mid climb decision whether to stop at those anchors (and come down) or to keep going, depending on how I felt with the first crux. This season, I should get on it. I would like to send Carbs and Caffeine, though, so I might get back on that first. Josh
It would be stupid to stop half way. The second pitch is definitely where the money is on the climb. If you end up blowing the second crux, you would probably fall a little ways but would hit nothing but air.
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olderic
Feb 4, 2011, 3:29 PM
Post #38 of 49
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blueeyedclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Why haven't you done Yellow Wall yet? Cuz I'm a-scared. I've been trying up my game and I haven't felt totally solid on easier 11's yet. Second, I know a lot of people just do up past the crux to the second pitch anchor, but I want to do the whole thing. The suggested way of doing the route is to link the 2 5.11 pitches, because if you don't you will have to do the crux of the 3rd pitch without any gear, factor 2ing onto the anchor. I think when I do it, it might be a mid climb decision whether to stop at those anchors (and come down) or to keep going, depending on how I felt with the first crux. This season, I should get on it. I would like to send Carbs and Caffeine, though, so I might get back on that first. Josh
That was exactly the situation Zeb and I had. Him leading. Me hanging at the crappy fixed anchors and him going up and down the start to the final section a zillion times before committing. He did get some gear but I doubt it was any good. On the other hand the move wasn't that hard - at least compared to what came before. I would say link them - that's easy to say sitting here. As you said it will have to be a game time decision. Have you done Erect Direction? Similar - but easier - situation.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 4, 2011, 3:32 PM
Post #39 of 49
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olderic wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: johnwesely wrote: Why haven't you done Yellow Wall yet? Cuz I'm a-scared. I've been trying up my game and I haven't felt totally solid on easier 11's yet. Second, I know a lot of people just do up past the crux to the second pitch anchor, but I want to do the whole thing. The suggested way of doing the route is to link the 2 5.11 pitches, because if you don't you will have to do the crux of the 3rd pitch without any gear, factor 2ing onto the anchor. I think when I do it, it might be a mid climb decision whether to stop at those anchors (and come down) or to keep going, depending on how I felt with the first crux. This season, I should get on it. I would like to send Carbs and Caffeine, though, so I might get back on that first. Josh That was exactly the situation Zeb and I had. Him leading. Me hanging at the crappy fixed anchors and him going up and down the start to the final section a zillion times before committing. He did get some gear but I doubt it was any good. On the other hand the move wasn't that hard - at least compared to what came before. I would say link them - that's easy to say sitting here. As you said it will have to be a game time decision. Have you done Erect Direction? Similar - but easier - situation.
Yeah, I did ED years ago. That was actually one of the first Gunks 10's I did.
Josh
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jakedatc
Feb 4, 2011, 3:52 PM
Post #40 of 49
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: Rumney: Technosurfing, finish Pump Up the Volume Gunks: The Sting Technosurfing is awesome. Have you been on it yet? Pump is not, however, I am surprised you haven't sent it yet. It seems like your style. If we are at the Gunks at the same time I would be happy to work on the Sting with you. In reply to: hehe twist.. Cycling: Kanc from Conway -> lincoln this might be the easiest on the list I believe you want www.nocaresaboutcycling.com Josh
haven't been on techno yet.. I haven't had a lot of chances to get on Pump while feeling good. I kinda went a lot of endurance last winter for RRG and O-hang and then took most of the summer off hard stuff. this winter i've done more bouldering on hard stuff at the gym so hopefully i'll still be ok at RRG and be able to crimp through Pump.
I'll definitely get on the Sting... i'll bring the crashpad ;)
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Jnclk
Feb 4, 2011, 4:08 PM
Post #41 of 49
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You might want to be able to climb a little harder than 5.9 first.
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kachoong
Feb 4, 2011, 4:25 PM
Post #42 of 49
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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mikebee wrote: A few I can think of. Some are way above my levels, others are doable, its just a case of getting there, sucking it up, and getting on the climb. Rock: The Flying Buttress, Moonarie Gap Downwind of Angles, Moonarie Gap Where Angels Fear to Tread, Mt Buffalo Missing Link, Arapiles Scorpion Crack, Arapiles
Skink, Arapiles Passport to Insanity, The Grampians Supercrack, Indian Creek The Nose of El Capitan, Yoesmite Ice (new the the ice climbing thing, hopefully have a better tick list in a couple of weeks) Polar Circus Mountains Cerro Torre, Patagonia Ellie de Beaumont, Mt Cook Area, New Zealand Malte Brun, Mt Cook Area, New Zealand Mt Aspiring, New Zealand
Dude... Skink and Scorpian Corner are classics! Skink is much nicer than grovelling up Watchtower Crack.
Also, if you get on Malte Brun, do the West Ridge. It has wonderful rock (for NZ) with great exposure.
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mr.tastycakes
Feb 4, 2011, 4:47 PM
Post #43 of 49
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310
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North Face of the Rostrum, Yosemite. This one is beyond my abilities, for now.
Fastest Gun, Adirondacks. At 10a it's within my current abilities, I've lined up a partner for it, and I'm planning to tick it early this spring before the seasonal peregrine closure (if it ever stops snowing in the NE).
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 4, 2011, 4:59 PM
Post #44 of 49
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mr.tastycakes wrote: North Face of the Rostrum, Yosemite. This one is beyond my abilities, for now. Fastest Gun, Adirondacks. At 10a it's within my current abilities, I've lined up a partner for it, and I'm planning to tick it early this spring before the seasonal peregrine closure (if it ever stops snowing in the NE).
Yeah, The Rostrum is on my list too, but not in the near future. I am hoping to move to CA eventually, so all the classics out there will be a little more realistic.
As for Fastest Gun, That's on my list too, but I hardly ever get out there. I was going to do it this year but ended up going to the Gunks instead because of the better forecast.
There is a ton in the Daks I want to hit though.
Josh
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jmeizis
Feb 4, 2011, 6:56 PM
Post #45 of 49
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
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It always seems like the Daks are real far away but it just takes that extra effort in convincing yourself they're not. Sometimes I still wish I lived out there, the rock and ice climbing is so good and I like the weather there better as well.
Fastest Gun is a really fun climb though, then you can rap down and do Bloody Mary which is an easier, but still really fun climb.
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 4, 2011, 7:15 PM
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I have done Bloody Mary. I have only been there once and did Bloody Mary, Gamesmanship, the one to the left of Gamesmanship, and Son of a Mother.
Josh
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Jnclk
Feb 4, 2011, 7:40 PM
Post #47 of 49
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mr.tastycakes wrote: North Face of the Rostrum, Yosemite. This one is beyond my abilities, for now. Fastest Gun, Adirondacks. At 10a it's within my current abilities, I've lined up a partner for it, and I'm planning to tick it early this spring before the seasonal peregrine closure (if it ever stops snowing in the NE).
The seasonal peregrine closure shouldn't affect that area of the cliff. Atleast it didn't last year.
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Taylorp.
Feb 4, 2011, 9:15 PM
Post #48 of 49
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Jnclk wrote: You might want to be able to climb a little harder than 5.9 first.
Indeed.
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TarHeelEMT
Feb 9, 2011, 3:15 AM
Post #49 of 49
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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West Pillar of the Eye Tooth
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-The-Eye-Tooth-West-Pillar
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