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maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack
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cal32


Feb 4, 2011, 8:25 AM
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maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack
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I'm going to be teaching a buddy that knows how to TR belay, how to lead belay soon. I've been going over in my mind what points I need to make sure to emphasize initially, while at the same time not overwhelming him with all the finer points that can come later.

This made me wonder how others feel about keeping the non brake hand on the rope when feeding slack. By that I mean when you go to feed a few armfuls of slack to the climber, do you keep the non brake hand on the rope the entire time as you feed just sliding it back down the rope then pull/pump more slack, repeat?

Or do you pull/pump slack, let go with non brake hand, regrab near atc pull/pump another armful again etc.

I think the latter is faster and what I tend to do. However I think it does make it easier to possibly yank the rope out of your brake hand, you have to be careful to not feed too wildly. If I am tired I will switch and go back to just sliding the pulling hand back down.

I'm thinking for someone new it's best to tell them to just keep it on the rope when giving slack...

thanks for your feedback


olderic


Feb 4, 2011, 8:33 AM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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I assume your buddy is starting from a slip slap slide technique as opposed to a bus based one and using a tube device and not a Gri-Gri or equivalent? Then it shouldn't make a lot of difference. However I think you need to talk about the possibility of just stepping forward to give slack and stepping back to take in. And how that's not possible (or at least more difficult) if you are anchored and the pros and cons of anchoring and single vs. multi pitch scenarios. that shouldn't be overwhelming.


jmeizis


Feb 4, 2011, 8:34 AM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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Why would what a belayer does with their non-brake hand have any effect on the ability to hold on with their other hand?


cal32


Feb 4, 2011, 8:38 AM
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Re: [jmeizis] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
Why would what a belayer does with their non-brake hand have any effect on the ability to hold on with their other hand?

If someone gets too crazy (e.g. noob) frantically trying to pull slack through with the non brake hand it can yank the brake hand off since it's loose and allowing the rope to slide through.

I think it's generally only going to happen to someone who doesn't have the simultaneous pull/pump motion down though, and is incorrectly trying to use too much pull.


blueeyedclimber


Feb 4, 2011, 8:47 AM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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cal32 wrote:
jmeizis wrote:
Why would what a belayer does with their non-brake hand have any effect on the ability to hold on with their other hand?

If someone gets too crazy (e.g. noob) frantically trying to pull slack through with the non brake hand it can yank the brake hand off since it's loose and allowing the rope to slide through.

I think it's generally only going to happen to someone who doesn't have the simultaneous pull/pump motion down though, and is incorrectly trying to use too much pull.

If you are teaching a n00b to lead belay, then the climber should not be on anything that they have a chance to fall on. At any point in the climb, you should be able to chill out and allow the belayer to catch up. That even comes after ground school to teach the mechanics. Once they know the mechanics and they are belaying a climber on something casual, they should still be backed up.

So, at no time, should a n00b be put in a position to get "crazy" or "frantic."

Josh


cal32


Feb 4, 2011, 8:55 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
cal32 wrote:
jmeizis wrote:
Why would what a belayer does with their non-brake hand have any effect on the ability to hold on with their other hand?

If someone gets too crazy (e.g. noob) frantically trying to pull slack through with the non brake hand it can yank the brake hand off since it's loose and allowing the rope to slide through.

I think it's generally only going to happen to someone who doesn't have the simultaneous pull/pump motion down though, and is incorrectly trying to use too much pull.

If you are teaching a n00b to lead belay, then the climber should not be on anything that they have a chance to fall on. At any point in the climb, you should be able to chill out and allow the belayer to catch up. That even comes after ground school to teach the mechanics. Once they know the mechanics and they are belaying a climber on something casual, they should still be backed up.

So, at no time, should a n00b be put in a position to get "crazy" or "frantic."

Josh

Yeh totally agree, I'm just thinking in general if it's a best practice to teach someone that to start out with, I suppose you shouldn't have to.


jt512


Feb 4, 2011, 9:38 AM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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cal32 wrote:

Or do you pull/pump slack, let go with non brake hand, regrab near atc pull/pump another armful again etc.

Teach this (above).

In reply to:
However I think it does make it easier to possibly yank the rope out of your brake hand, you have to be careful to not feed too wildly.


Huh?

In reply to:
If I am tired I will switch and go back to just sliding the pulling hand back down.

That is a very strange statement.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 4, 2011, 9:38 AM)


david7896


Feb 4, 2011, 5:52 PM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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Not to sound rude, but you sound like already know the answer to your question.


no_email_entered


Feb 4, 2011, 5:59 PM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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set your buddy up in a corner with his atc and have him feed the rope through about 1/2 dozen times---

---he will eventually get the motion and youll have a beuatifully flaked rope


notapplicable


Feb 5, 2011, 3:47 PM
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Re: [cal32] maintaining non brake hand on rope when feeding slack [In reply to]
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cal32 wrote:
I'm going to be teaching a buddy that knows how to TR belay, how to lead belay soon. I've been going over in my mind what points I need to make sure to emphasize initially, while at the same time not overwhelming him with all the finer points that can come later.

This made me wonder how others feel about keeping the non brake hand on the rope when feeding slack. By that I mean when you go to feed a few armfuls of slack to the climber, do you keep the non brake hand on the rope the entire time as you feed just sliding it back down the rope then pull/pump more slack, repeat?

Or do you pull/pump slack, let go with non brake hand, regrab near atc pull/pump another armful again etc.

I think the latter is faster and what I tend to do. However I think it does make it easier to possibly yank the rope out of your brake hand, you have to be careful to not feed too wildly. If I am tired I will switch and go back to just sliding the pulling hand back down.

I'm thinking for someone new it's best to tell them to just keep it on the rope when giving slack...

thanks for your feedback

You're overthinking this.


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