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Montano26


Feb 8, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Hi, I have 500$ and i would like buy a my own cams, a thinking about set dragon DMM, and 3 smal 3CU DMM?

Help my, please:)


jo247


Feb 8, 2011, 2:07 PM
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Re: [Montano26] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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I say: start with Black Diamond C4. and then you can double up your cams with either metolius or DMM if you prefer.

but that's only my opinion.


jeepnphreak


Feb 8, 2011, 4:19 PM
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Re: [Montano26] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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Montano26 wrote:
Hi, I have 500$ and i would like buy a my own cams, a thinking about set dragon DMM, and 3 smal 3CU DMM?

Help my, please:)


Go with the black diamond C4. Not only are they just about the same as the DMM dragons in every aspect they are way cheaper in the small to mid range cams. I dont think its until the very largest DMM dragon size 6 where it cheaper than the BD #4 (same size)


petsfed


Feb 8, 2011, 4:55 PM
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Re: [Montano26] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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Standard advice: climb with people who have the brands you're interested, and figure out which one you like best.

For me, the absence of a thumbloop is a deal breaker on the dragons, but I know a lot of people who don't mind the old-style camalots or the technical friends, so they love 'em.

To be sure, my only real-world experience with a dragon cam was digging one out of the crux of a fist crack roof because a friend of mine got sketched and buried it. The cam didn't function so well after I got it out, but few do after a few dozen blows from a hammer.


currupt4130


Feb 8, 2011, 5:10 PM
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Re: [petsfed] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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I agree, climb with some people that have different gear. If you run into someone that has something you haven't tried while at the crag, ask them if they'd mind you playing with it for a minute. I've talked to tons of people with different gear and gotten to fondle plenty of it just by asking.

The standard however, is the C4. My recommendation from my personal experience is to start off with C4's from 0.5-4. The .3 and .4, IMO, have too wide of a head width to be as useful as other brands/styles of cams for the size and range. Below C4 0.5, I go to TCU's and Aliens, but every one has their different preferences.

FWIW, you can get a set of C4s (0.5-3) for somewhere around $290 (cheaper if you find it on sale) and a set of TCU's (#1-4) for around $200. That should cover all your bases easily, with a little overlap in the .5/.75 range.

Or look at Wired Bliss for an even better price on high quality TCU units. http://shop.wiredblissusa.com/...ck-4-15-TCU-RACK.htm

If you don't have nuts, toss a set of those in for under $100, half a dozen shoulder length runners for $30-$50, and a dozen biners for $60-$75 and you've got a good thing going.

Look around for good deals though and you can easily save $100 or more on all of it.


(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Feb 8, 2011, 5:25 PM)


TarHeelEMT


Feb 9, 2011, 1:29 AM
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Re: [Montano26] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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Dude... C4s.


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 2:13 AM
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Dude don't go C4s just because they are popular. So many people are obsessed and biased towards them.

Try out different cams. Try out Dragons. They have better expansion force and thus stronger grip than C4s. DMM make top quality gear.

All that said I own C4s and I'm happy with them. But looking to upgrade to dragons. Smile


bearbreeder


Feb 9, 2011, 2:45 AM
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i didnt think that there was any reason to get the dragons, having C4s myself ... but then i tried someone elses

and i actually did use the extension ... it was enough to not use a quickdraw in quite a few cases ...


west_by_god_virginia


Feb 9, 2011, 3:22 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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get metoius first. then you dont have to worry about paring down on weight later


jbro_135


Feb 9, 2011, 3:25 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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i have dragons, i don't really climb much trad yet but friends who have used them are impressed


esander4


Feb 9, 2011, 3:41 AM
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Montano26 wrote:
Hi, I have 500$ and i would like buy a my own cams, a thinking about set dragon DMM, and 3 smal 3CU DMM?

Help my, please:)

Anybody else suspect this might be someone from DMM trying to get a couple reviews out of their cams?


petsfed


Feb 9, 2011, 5:12 AM
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Re: [west_by_god_virginia] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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west_by_god_virginia wrote:
get metoius first. then you dont have to worry about paring down on weight later

Also, suffer the downsides of a too-small cam angle and a u-stem design! Kidding aside, if weight is the only thing that affects which cam you buy, then you aren't placing cams often enough to worry about which brand. Feel is a major factor, and its why a LOT of people swear by Metolius cams (and why I don't).


currupt4130


Feb 9, 2011, 5:14 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
i didnt think that there was any reason to get the dragons, having C4s myself ... but then i tried someone elses

and i actually did use the extension ... it was enough to not use a quickdraw in quite a few cases ...

Off topic, but just get your C4s re-slung with a doubled sling if that's the only thing pulling you towards Dragons.


majid_sabet


Feb 9, 2011, 6:07 AM
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Montano26 wrote:
Hi, I have 500$ and i would like buy a my own cams, a thinking about set dragon DMM, and 3 smal 3CU DMM?

Help my, please:)

with $500 you can get $2500 worth of climbing gear on ebay. used but they will do the job


patto


Feb 9, 2011, 6:15 AM
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currupt4130 wrote:
Off topic, but just get your C4s re-slung with a doubled sling if that's the only thing pulling you towards Dragons.

If you want to reduce the rated strength of C4s then go right ahead! Wink

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...ng-camalots-and-c3s/


bearbreeder


Feb 9, 2011, 8:26 AM
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Re: [patto] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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patto wrote:

If you want to reduce the rated strength of C4s then go right ahead! Wink

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...ng-camalots-and-c3s/

^^^ whadda he said ....

if it was that easy DMM would have down a thumbloop AND an extendible sling, like on the zero ... which i do have as well ... Tongue


porthillsclimber


Feb 9, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Re: [Montano26] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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I have c4s, but i wish i had dragons. the build quality is allot better and they just feel better holding them. put a c4 and dragon side by side and it makes the c4 look cheap. the price difference does not end up being that much if your buying full sets


Montano26


Feb 9, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Re: [porthillsclimber] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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Hi, I am from Poland. A think about Dragon DMM set cost ~500$ because Camalot C4 set 0.3 - 3 cost ~1000$


sbaclimber


Feb 9, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Montano26 wrote:
...because Camalot C4 set 0.3 - 3 cost ~1000$
Where in the world did you get that price from!?Shocked

Btw, when comparing prices, keep in mind that a set of Dragon Cams contains 6 units, whereas C4 0.3-3 is 7 units.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 9, 2011, 11:45 AM)


Montano26


Feb 9, 2011, 11:47 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Trad active protection [In reply to]
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In Poland, a find shop where set of C4 camalot cost 2700PLN, In Poland 1$=2,8PLN, so 2700PLN~=1000$

:(


sbaclimber


Feb 9, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Montano26 wrote:
In Poland, a find shop where set of C4 camalot cost 2700PLN, In Poland 1$=2,8PLN, so 2700PLN~=1000$

:(
Ouch! Yeah, that's kinda pricey.

If you were to order them from BergFreunde.de, it would *only* cost you 490€ (~1910PLN) for C4 03.-3, including shipping.

A set of Dragons will cost you about 100€ less (is also one cam less)


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 9, 2011, 12:08 PM)


currupt4130


Feb 9, 2011, 2:14 PM
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patto wrote:
currupt4130 wrote:
Off topic, but just get your C4s re-slung with a doubled sling if that's the only thing pulling you towards Dragons.

If you want to reduce the rated strength of C4s then go right ahead! Wink

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...ng-camalots-and-c3s/

Ok, I take it back. Blush


esander4


Feb 9, 2011, 2:32 PM
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Would it be possible for BD to make just an extra long doubled up sling like they have now, just with 2 clip in point? One at the end and one in the middle? It wouldn't be that much bulkier


billcoe_


Feb 10, 2011, 4:26 AM
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patto wrote:
All that said I own C4s and I'm happy with them. But looking to upgrade to dragons. Smile

IMO Camalots are better than Dragons. Not just cheaper, but better.

Metolius cams are real solid too.


patto


Feb 10, 2011, 5:04 AM
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billcoe_ wrote:
IMO Camalots are better than Dragons. Not just cheaper, but better.

The only significant differences are the thumb loop, the sling, the camming angle and weight.

I prefer a grippier camming angle hence my preference for DMM.

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