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Big Wall Harness
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epic_ed


Dec 26, 2002, 9:14 PM
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I've been using a Misty Titan and am reasonably comfortable in it after many hours of hanging belays. But, it has enough wear-and-tear that I'm considering a new one. One of my budies has a Yates Shield that he absolutely loves, but it doesn't look much more padded than my Titan. The Yates Big Wall Harness looks very comfy, but I've never seen anyone who owns one and I kinda wonder why -- is it overkill? Do the Euros make fun of it because it looks like a diaper? What is your favorite big wall harness?

Ed

--This may be a gear related question, but since I'm specifically asking about an aid related item I posted it to the aid forum. Feel free to disagree.


krustyklimber


Dec 26, 2002, 9:25 PM
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I have the Yates Bigwall harness and I absolutely LOVE it!

It's is not, in my opinion, overkill at all.

Jeff


copperhead


Dec 26, 2002, 11:10 PM
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I am on my second Yates BW harness. I think the Yates Shield and Alpine Wall harnesses are a bit overkill for Yo wallin' but I have only worn them, and not climbed in them. You can't go wrong with Yates!



spike


Dec 27, 2002, 7:19 AM
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Go with YATES Shield harness !!!
I am also on my second YATES Shield harness! To much climbing, lost weight and had to get a smaller size


totigers


Dec 27, 2002, 7:38 AM
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I'm a large fellow and spend alot of time in my harness on small walls but because of my size, I am swinging alot. I just got my first yates shield. No better harness for confort and security.
I love mine and when I drop a few pounds I will be buying another one in a smaller size.
And to top it off, if you call them directly, they are the most accomidating group. I have not had that same pleasure in talking about climbing and gear with any other company in all my years of climbing.
If you get the chance to talk to ?? my mind went blank, but he is one of the managers in the back I think. KC?? maybe, something like that, but he took the time to tell me how they came up with the shield. It is an interesting story.
After talking with him there was no need to call anyone else about a harness for my size. I bought one right there and then and they shipped it out to me and I've been happy ever since.
Good luck and have fun with it.


passthepitonspete


Dec 27, 2002, 3:10 PM
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I'm on my second Yates Big Wall Harness, and it is ETS!

I do not know how it compares to the Shield, precisely.

My criteria for choosing one over the other would be which one has more gear loops to hang stuff from, and after that, which one more cushy. And if they were about the same, whichever was cheaper.

What is the difference between the two models?

We sure seem to have a consensus on the manufacturer, eh?

Cheers,

Pete


vegastradguy


Dec 27, 2002, 3:39 PM
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The difference between the Shield and the Big Wall (according to the Yates website) is the following:

Big Wall: 5 1/2" wasit belt with a 2 layer laminated foam insert in the small of the back and the hips. 2 hammer holsters, 4 gear loops and a rated haul loop (plus 2 small loops under the haul loop, as well as what looks like 2 more small gear loops near the hammer holsters...)

Shield: 5" waist belt with regular padding. 1 hammer holster, 6 gear loops, and a rated haul loop. Also suitable for Ice Routes according to Yates.

Both harnesses have 3 1/2" leg loops. Both cost the same $109.50

I have the Shield, and I LOVE IT. More gear loops, super comfy on the hanging belays, and I still have good freedom of movement for free climbing. I can't wait to use it for aid climbing, though.

Either way, you can't go wrong. It's Yates. I just ordered my chest harness from them, I can't wait to get it!!!!

[ This Message was edited by: vegastradguy on 2002-12-27 15:50 ]


elcapbuzz


Dec 27, 2002, 4:19 PM
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As far as big wall climbing ..... I don't think there's another company out there that is so focused on durability, comfort and efficiency.

I use a Yates Shield when I'm camping and an Astroman when speedclimbing and craggin'.

Cheers, Ammon

BTW: I'm going to email this link to John Yates so he can personaly see some feedback directly from the climbers who uses his products.


krustyklimber


Dec 27, 2002, 4:40 PM
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The other big difference is the closure system...

The Sheild has a doulble buckle closure, and in my opinion doesn't have enough room for rigging to solo "the better way"

The Big Wall has a unique "sling closure" system which has more than enough room for all the stuff you'd ever want to lash on.

The tiny gear loop is to attach your hammers sling, which is nice if you pitch while funking that wrong size pin back out (ie Mr Krusty's wild ride). Mine is a small and doesn't have these, I hitch my hammer to the holster now.

Jeff

Ammon, camping you crack me up!

John and Karen, Hi! Still lovin' my hat, I have worn it everyday since you sent it to me last fall... it's getting pretty tatty, I may have to buy a new one.

[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-12-27 16:47 ]


vegastradguy


Dec 27, 2002, 4:59 PM
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Ah, yes, I forgot about the closure system. Good call.

I'm going to get the Astroman as soon as I can justify owning another sport / small climb harness. As it is, I'm stuck with my BD for the time being. lol.

Long live the Yates Shield!!


brutusofwyde


Dec 27, 2002, 7:29 PM
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Yates Wall Harness here. One comment on these (besides love it): Don't know if they're still using the same design, but the plastic stiffener inside the gear loop sometimes breaks off at the stitching, leaving a sharp bit of plastic inside the nylon sleeve of the gear loop.

Suggest you folks check your Yates gear loops to see if this is happening. If so, wear from the plastic can eventually cause failure of the gear loop. Failed gear loop on big wall = not good.

Easy remedy is to coat (saturate) the nylon sleeve with seam grip.

The Yates wall harness is absolutely hands-down the most comfortable, cushy harness I have ever climbed into. I won't go walling without mine.

Brutus


smallwallmonkey


Dec 27, 2002, 8:35 PM
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To each is own I say, though my opinion follow. I haven't used a yates harness, cause they're so dang expensive. I also think that they are possibly a bit of an overkill. Zodiac was torture in my sport weenie metolius, hanging all night through those damn grey circle belays. So when a wild things went on sale at the mtn. shop, I bought it. It's not near as huge as the yates shield or bw, but it's still way comfy, and it goes free/speed climbing very well. Go with what feels right, and fits your budget, but the more comfortable you are, the more apt you are to move as slow as pass the pitons (he he). Camping's fun, but rather un-glorious...

smallwall max


epic_ed


Dec 27, 2002, 8:40 PM
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Excellent feedback. Thanks for the replies. I'm leaning toward the BW Harness at this point. My hips and kidneys are already happy.

BTW--I have the Yates chest harness. Nice piece of equipment, but funky colors.


passthepitonspete


Dec 27, 2002, 10:43 PM
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Yo, Yates!

Dude.

Dude.

DUDE!

Hel-LOW-hoe?!

Make the damn BUCKLE on the Big Wall Harness with more clearance.

I repeat:

BIGGER!

It is hellacious trying to push the webbing through the buckle, and then trying to double it back.

I mean, dude - it is wicked hard to double the sling back through!

Other than that, the harness is swell.

If you are paying attention, then you will also make these modifications to your big wall lead rack!

As far as I know, you do "get it" as you have made some of these modifications.

I would be interested in your take, and as to which modifications you have made so far.

Cheers,

The Doc


coclimber26


Dec 28, 2002, 10:55 AM
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I have the yates and love it, very comfortable and love the gear loops on the chest harness.


karlbaba


Dec 28, 2002, 12:03 PM
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I've had the Misty Mountain Wall Harness, Two Yates Big walls, and a Shield, and I love Yates Harnesses. I spend a lot of time hanging at belays on multipitch climbs so I wear my shield freeclimbing as well. (one of these days I may get an Astroman for free routes)

Misty "Seems" beefy but the waistbelt is just wimpy fleece. The Yates foam spreads and cushions the load much better (unfortunately, there is a load)

On my old big-walls from Yates, the buckle did get very hard to feed once the webbing started to fray a bit. I would melt the webbing ends and try to make the end sharper. I agree though, that a different design would be helpful there. Brutus is also correct that the durability of the gear loops is the closest Yates gets to a demerit.

Still, I wouldn't want to climb in any harness but Yates.

Peace

Karl


Partner euroford


Dec 28, 2002, 11:14 PM
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Speaking of harnesses, i've been meaning to bring this question to the group. As i begin my education and shopping phase on my quest to be a bonofied big wall theorist, i have thus far been useing a Petzl Navaho Complete harness.

(note: this is where we would insert a link, that is, if petzl's web guys spent more time climbing and less time codeing. sheesh)

you see, i'm already a bonofied wall doctor; of a very diffrent sort. more chicago and dallas than yosemiti. the Navaho has served me very well on multi-hour skyscraper rapells whilst serveying the conditions present on the exterior of my glass and aluminum patients.

the harness has already proven to be cozzy, and has very addiquate gear storage. the included chest harness seams to work very well on my frog system.

i would be more than happy to purchase a yates harness and a petzl torse, but perhaps my current wall rig is bitchen enough.



vegastradguy


Dec 31, 2002, 12:38 PM
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Hey, i just got my Big Wall Chest Harness from Yates. Other than being purple, I love it. I cant wait...so much more comfy than that damn Metolius sling (which is fine for single pitches) on multipitch stuff.

On the gear loops...they are now made of rolled tubular webbing, and (to my knowledge) dont have any plastic stiffener inside of them, they dont really need it. Maybe they figured out a BETTER WAY.

I will say that the buckles on the chest harness work nicely on the double back, better than on my Shield harness. Maybe next years harness models will be better.

I'm excited, now all I need is a giant aid rack and I can think about taking the aid climbing course from Dr. Piton himself! (No way am I going to aid climb until I know the Better Way!)


epic_ed


Dec 31, 2002, 2:02 PM
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Poor bastard. You got a purple one, huh? Yep, they sure are ugly. The webbing on mine is royal blue. But very functional. BTW -- I believe Brutus was refering to the plastic on the gear loops of the big wall harness, not the chest harness.

Ed


skywalker


Dec 31, 2002, 2:10 PM
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I have a Yates Shield and its a cozy hang. My buddy has the Astoman he loves that. So try both. I think Yates is the bomb! Oh, the shield also has a long gear loop that is pretty sweet too! I wish my free-climbing harness had that.


vegastradguy


Dec 31, 2002, 2:18 PM
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yeah, well, i THOUGHT i was getting one with blue webbing, but it was purple.

however, I was never one to worry about fashion above safety. still wish it was blue. or gray.

yeah, the haul loop on the back of the shield is nice. rated to 3500lbs, i believe.

Yates: makes big wall climbers happy.


drunkenmonkey


Jan 1, 2003, 11:08 AM
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As a euro myself and a recent convert to aid climbing i think the YATES BIG WALL HARNESS IS MOST DEFINITELY THE S**T
I'm a big bloke (250lb+ and 6ft+) and found the harness super comfy. can't imagine a better one. the one bit of advice we got from Yates about the shield 'v' big wall was if you're on the larger side like myself the 'big wall' would be better but if your a touch smaller then the 'shield' would be more than adequate.

take it easy

[ This Message was edited by: drunkenmonkey on 2003-01-01 11:09 ]


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