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sshiflett
Feb 8, 2011, 9:13 PM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2009
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It seems we have a theif at the Quarry. Just for info, I had 6 CAMP draws and 2 Omega anchor draws hanging on Sins of the Flesh over the weekend, and I came back today to find them gone. These were obviously set up as a project. Louie Anderson had several draws stolen last week while taking care of all of us and cleaning dangerous rock. Who ever took these is a serious piece of crap. Done leave anything on your projects
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petsfed
Feb 8, 2011, 10:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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Before any crusty trad climbing thief apologists start ranting about asthetics and abandoned property, I encourage them to read the area description. Thieves suck.
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tripperjm
Feb 8, 2011, 10:40 PM
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It's not just happening at the Quarry, it's happening all over the country. A couple of weeks back I was tring to repeat one of my FA's from 15 years ago on a crag that sees very little traffic. On my last burn, just before dark, I broke teh cruz hold. It was getting late and already cold and windy. I knew, I would be back early the next morning to clean up the loose/ dangerous rock that wus left after the hold broke. So I left my work rope thru the anchors and draws and remaining rope coiled and tied to a rock at the base. So it would be easier for me to get back up and fix the route the next day. When I returned early the next morning, the rope and draws were gone. I couldn't believe that after establishing virtually all of teh almost 400 routes in the area, building the trails, building benches, cleaning up the trash in the area including old washing machines, dumped building materials, broken glass and even a burned out car the BLM wouldn't touch... that somebody would steal from me. I was pretty pissed at the time. I seriously thought about stripping all of my hangers/ anchors off all the easy route and taking them to one of my newer unpublished area. In the end I just walked back to my car, grabbed another rope and a handfull of extra draws and went climbing. I did decide, that I will never put up easy routes or give out climbing info to new areas I'm developing ever again.
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moose_droppings
Feb 8, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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Keep an eye out for this guy.
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gregory_huey
Feb 16, 2011, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2006
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Jack, I'm sorry that someone would do that to you - its pretty low. But, remember that for ever jerkoff out there that would steal from you, there are hundreds of us that are very grateful and deeply appreciative of the time and money you invest to give us routes to climb. Though greater by far, it's just that the positive is rarely as visible as the negative. If ever you can use some semi-skilled assistance for route maintenance/development, I'd be happy to help. My cell is 626-345-8364. Thanks, Greg Huey
(This post was edited by gregory_huey on Feb 16, 2011, 1:11 AM)
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enigma
Feb 16, 2011, 8:39 AM
Post #7 of 13
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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tripperjm wrote: It's not just happening at the Quarry, it's happening all over the country. A couple of weeks back I was tring to repeat one of my FA's from 15 years ago on a crag that sees very little traffic. On my last burn, just before dark, I broke teh cruz hold. It was getting late and already cold and windy. I knew, I would be back early the next morning to clean up the loose/ dangerous rock that wus left after the hold broke. So I left my work rope thru the anchors and draws and remaining rope coiled and tied to a rock at the base. So it would be easier for me to get back up and fix the route the next day. When I returned early the next morning, the rope and draws were gone. I couldn't believe that after establishing virtually all of teh almost 400 routes in the area, building the trails, building benches, cleaning up the trash in the area including old washing machines, dumped building materials, broken glass and even a burned out car the BLM wouldn't touch... that somebody would steal from me. I was pretty pissed at the time. I seriously thought about stripping all of my hangers/ anchors off all the easy route and taking them to one of my newer unpublished area. In the end I just walked back to my car, grabbed another rope and a handfull of extra draws and went climbing. I did decide, that I will never put up easy routes or give out climbing info to new areas I'm developing ever again. Since you are so familiar with your area, set up a sting, and catch them!!! They must have watched you leaving. Not sure if you could get the police involved, but legally aren't they trespassing and stealing? Bait and Catch. I feel your pain, Alot of So-Cal is very harsh, people have no respect, they are like wild animals I've had vandalism experiences as well. it sucks.
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socalclimber
Feb 16, 2011, 1:27 PM
Post #8 of 13
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
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tripperjm wrote: It's not just happening at the Quarry, it's happening all over the country. A couple of weeks back I was tring to repeat one of my FA's from 15 years ago on a crag that sees very little traffic. On my last burn, just before dark, I broke teh cruz hold. It was getting late and already cold and windy. I knew, I would be back early the next morning to clean up the loose/ dangerous rock that wus left after the hold broke. So I left my work rope thru the anchors and draws and remaining rope coiled and tied to a rock at the base. So it would be easier for me to get back up and fix the route the next day. When I returned early the next morning, the rope and draws were gone. I couldn't believe that after establishing virtually all of teh almost 400 routes in the area, building the trails, building benches, cleaning up the trash in the area including old washing machines, dumped building materials, broken glass and even a burned out car the BLM wouldn't touch... that somebody would steal from me. I was pretty pissed at the time. I seriously thought about stripping all of my hangers/ anchors off all the easy route and taking them to one of my newer unpublished area. In the end I just walked back to my car, grabbed another rope and a handfull of extra draws and went climbing. I did decide, that I will never put up easy routes or give out climbing info to new areas I'm developing ever again. Jack, I understand your bitterness, but as you have stated, this is happening all over the US. I'm sure by now you have seen the video from Smith Rocks. I think the days of leaving "project" gear on routes is over unless you sleep at the base. I hope you don't stop all the good work you've been doing for years because of this. I for one appreciate all your hard work, time, and expense out of pocket.
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sshiflett
Feb 25, 2011, 8:31 PM
Post #9 of 13
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Registered: Oct 11, 2009
Posts: 10
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I got them back!!!!! This story has a happy ending. A climber read my post and realized he had taken my draws. He emailed me and returned them right away. Apparently he is a relatively new climber that didn't realize people sometimes leave gear on a project. He thought the draws were abandoned and someone had bailed off the route. Thanks for being a good guy Jake!
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ianmeister89
Feb 25, 2011, 9:24 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2009
Posts: 140
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So he's a relatively new climber who can climb 12b, or who already knows how to aid up a route, but doesn't understand project draws? Something's a little off with this IMO. I think he just doesn't want the bad Karma... -Ian
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kovacs69
Feb 25, 2011, 9:47 PM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 607
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ianmeister89 wrote: So he's a relatively new climber who can climb 12b, or who already knows how to aid up a route, but doesn't understand project draws? Something's a little off with this IMO. I think he just doesn't want the bad Karma... -Ian Maybe he is a new climber that can rapel down a 12b which requires almost no knowledge or skill. Give the guy the benefit of the doubt...he did return them. JB
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gregory_huey
Mar 19, 2011, 3:38 AM
Post #12 of 13
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Registered: Mar 3, 2006
Posts: 149
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ianmeister89 wrote: So he's a relatively new climber who can climb 12b, or who already knows how to aid up a route, but doesn't understand project draws? Something's a little off with this IMO. I think he just doesn't want the bad Karma... -Ian Maybe he "found" some nicer draws Steve, and didn't want your's anymore?
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ianmeister89
Mar 19, 2011, 7:15 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Jun 19, 2009
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I was climbing in the Metro Sector yesterday, and saw that somebody had left project draws up on Weapons of Mass Destruction ( I think). Those nice spirits with the Black dogbones on them. A shout out to the person who left them: Caution, there's a jerk with a stick-clip on the loose. -Ian
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