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Mayra
Mar 1, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise.
I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all.
Best,
M
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airscape
Mar 1, 2011, 9:50 AM
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I was better at the beginning than I am now.
It's almost like sex though, you get the most satisfaction if it's hard.
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rightarmbad
Mar 1, 2011, 11:46 AM
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Three months is nothing.
I say get out of the bloody gym where you can really learn.
You will also learn that it is not all about grades.
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dr_feelgood
Mar 1, 2011, 12:22 PM
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Mayra wrote: Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise. I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all. Best, M
Maybe climbing just isn't for you.
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socalclimber
Mar 1, 2011, 1:12 PM
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Don't worry about the ratings. Just get out and enjoy being outdoors and climbing.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Mar 1, 2011, 1:12 PM)
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hyhuu
Mar 1, 2011, 1:15 PM
Post #6 of 29
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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Mayra wrote: Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise. I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all. Best, M
I started 10 years ago and certainly sucked at the beginning. After 10 years, I still suck (got better but still stuck) but love every minutes of it. Just like someone once said "I climb as just hard as (elite climber) but I just happen to do it on an easy climb". Good luck.
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Kartessa
Mar 1, 2011, 1:15 PM
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I'm sorry, did you expect instant gratification? Like any sport/skill, it takes time and effort to get better.
3 months is not enough time to become a master of anything, a year still isn't even close.
Quit chasing grades, climb for fun.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 1, 2011, 1:34 PM
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3 months, really?
If you have kids, or if you know any, what would you tell a kid who was frustrated that after 3 months of piano practice he couldn't play Beethoven's 9th symphony? What would you tell a budding gymnast who couldn't do a kip after 3 months? A figure skater with 3 months experience frustrated about not being able to perform triple axel?
Seriously, you are old enough to know better and to have more patience.
Ask yourself: why are you doing this in the first place? Do you enjoy climbing because it gives you satisfaction, or do you do it to get someone's approval, and you need to perform to certain standards to get it? Is there a deadline? Is it a race?
Everyone progresses at a different pace. So you are not comparing yourself to anyone else. Yes, there are people who started climbing later in life, and got really good. There are also plenty of people who started late in life, and didn't get all that good. You CAN get good if you work hard and have aptitude for climbing. But there are no guarantees that you would.
Now what? Are you ready to give up, because there aren't 50 stories of amazing climbers who started when they were 35 and sent their first 5.13 within a year?
Regardless of who did what at what age, YOU do it for yourself, with the body and mind that you have to work with, because it's the only set you've got, and hopefully derive satisfaction from it, or find other things to do that will give you satisfaction.
There are things you could do, if you want to train more efficiently and to maximize your gains, regardelss of your starting point and ability.
Sounds like you already have adequate time for climbing, and both a gym and outdoor climbing accessible for you. That's great. Now, get a good book about training. Self-Coached Climber by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter would be my suggestion. Read it, digest it, and apply it. Good luck!
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Mayra
Mar 1, 2011, 1:47 PM
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Thanks to everybody who has taken the time to reply so far, I really appreciate it. I am amped to keep at it. It's really helpful to read peoples perspective on things and it reminds me why I started in the first place. I love climbing. Thanks again!
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saint_john
Mar 1, 2011, 1:48 PM
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First off, you're not too old to start climbing. I started when I was 33 (5 months ago) and I feel like I'm progressing pretty well. I'd advise you to read The Self Coached climber; watch climbing videos (study the climber's movements); and find some friends that are encouraging and knowledgable about climbing.
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dynosore
Mar 1, 2011, 2:18 PM
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If you love combing don't worry about the grades. I've been climbing seven years or so and the best I've ever done is low grade 20's. My goal is to be able to lead any grade ~18 climb. Despite everyone spraying about being 5.12 climbers nowadays, put them on 5.11 odfwidth and you'll quickly thin the herd. My goal is to be well rounded so I can head to the mountains, see a line I like, and have a reasonable chance of sending it. Decide on your goal and enjoy working towards it. Otherwise you'll burn out.
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Hooky
Mar 1, 2011, 2:46 PM
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lena_chita wrote: 3 months, really? If you have kids, or if you know any, what would you tell a kid who was frustrated that after 3 months of piano practice he couldn't play Beethoven's 9th symphony? ...
It's actually pretty easy, as it has no piano part;-)
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rtwilli4
Mar 1, 2011, 2:50 PM
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Being a good climber has little to do with the grade you climb. Climbing is about being safe, knowing your shit, and having fun. Friends and being outside are also important. You're having just as much fun on those 16's as the people who are climbing 26's have on their climbs.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 1, 2011, 2:56 PM
Post #14 of 29
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Hooky wrote: lena_chita wrote: 3 months, really? If you have kids, or if you know any, what would you tell a kid who was frustrated that after 3 months of piano practice he couldn't play Beethoven's 9th symphony? ... It's actually pretty easy, as it has no piano part;-)
Not sure about easy for someone with 3 months of practice, but you are right about the second part, of course. If I wanted to use a pianist and Beethoven's symphony as an example, I should have said Wagner's piano arrangement of Beethoven's 9th symphony.
Now, back to the original topic... 
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kachoong
Mar 1, 2011, 3:17 PM
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Mayra wrote: Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise. I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all. Best, M
Gaining satisfaction from climbing can be as easy as getting outside, away from a gym environment, perhaps for a weekend trip to the Blue Mountains or Arapiles and climb some really asthetic and enjoyable routes.
You'd be surprised what you are able to enjoy outside if you're climbing 15 and 16 and forget about competing either with others or yourself. Grades shouldn't matter, especially if you just enjoy the movement, exposure, company and scenery. Just try and enjoy the essence of climbing for a few trips. Somewhere like Arapiles, for example, has many many classic routes at grade 15 and lower.
Think about doing some of the classic routes that climbers attempted 30 and 40 years ago. Find literature in the guidebooks and elsewhere to give you a historical perspective. Appreciate their boldness on more inferior gear and think about how they went about the routes they chose. Doing all this will help broaden your appreciation for climbing rather than through trying to muscle your way up gym routes of higher and higher numbers.
You can find encouragement by just getting yourself on a climb(s) with history, aesthetics and in a great location. It doesn't matter how old you are or how long you've been climbing. Here are a couple of such routes (in Aus):
Grade 11 (5.3) - topping out
Grade 13 (5.5)
Grade 14 (5.6)
Grade 16 (5.8)
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MidnightR
Mar 1, 2011, 3:40 PM
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The grade doesn't matter so much. I climb V4, but I'm not having any more fun than I did when I was climbing V2.
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ENARE
Mar 1, 2011, 4:05 PM
Post #17 of 29
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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Mayra wrote: Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise. I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all. Best, M
When you are climbing, what are the barriers that you are hitting that make you feel like you cannot progress to the next level. Are you getting arm pump? not able to reach the holds? not flexible enough. I know that depending on which barrier you have, you may be able to fix the problem.
I am just getting back into climbing after a 5 year hiatus and was only able to send a 5.9 at the gym this weekend and that is with a few rests on the TR. I used to climb between 5.10 and 5.11 a and my only problem is that I stopped climbing. I know that it is a tough progression but it takes some time and training.
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aprice00
Mar 1, 2011, 4:08 PM
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Im in a very similar place with my progression. I work full time and only get 2-4 sessions in a week. When I can go I usually wear out quickly so I dont end up with much of a work out and have noticed a definite plateau.
So this weekend I went out with a buddy and TR'ed for about 6 solid hrs, Im still soar 3days later. Im going to the gym tonight and have a feeling that im going to see some better results.
So my new approach is going to go like this.
1) Stay off overhangs untill I build up stamina.
The more routes you do the more you can work on footwork and control.
You get a better work out if you streach it out with small breaks *think weight lifting in sets*
2) Climb with 1 to 2 people at my level.
Enough for regular rests but not so many that you do too much talking.
People at your level will motivate you without making you feel like a gumby.
3) Try to climb outside once a week.
IMHO if you diversify your work out you will see a more of a total gain.
ex. Isolated muscle groups on one route may be stabilizing muscle groups on another.
Also if you change up your climbing expericence it wont become trite.
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Lbrombach
Mar 1, 2011, 5:30 PM
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I think most of us climb because we like to be challenged. Sounds like you are being challenged and if you were to get awesome really quickly, you'd probably get bored and not enjoy climbing anymore. Be happy that it continues to be challenging.
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erisspirit
Mar 1, 2011, 6:24 PM
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Climb because you like the challenge and the experience. Work on technique and learn from others. The grades will come just with getting out there and pushing yourself. letting yourself get discouraged because of some number you think you should be at isn't going to help. Enjoy the climb for what it is. Plenty of time to number chase later
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csproul
Mar 1, 2011, 6:35 PM
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MidnightR wrote: The grade doesn't matter so much. I climb V4, but I'm not having any more fun than I did when I was climbing V2.
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jeepnphreak
Mar 1, 2011, 6:50 PM
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Mayra wrote: Hello all, so long story short, I am 35, started climbing end of last year, working grades 15&16 (low grades) after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week. I climb 2 times at the gym and 1 time outside if possible. Some weeks less. I’m feeling a bit discouraged about the snail like progress. I love climbing and I just want to keep on doing it but can’t help getting down on myself about not moving up grade wise. I am hoping someone will be able to share a encouraging story about how they sucked at the beginning but kept at it and got good. Thank you one and all. Best, M
This simply lead me to this quote By Alex Lowe
"The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!"
so quite being so hard on you self, and enjoy what you are doing. you have been climbing a very very short time, the harder stuff will come along as you keep climbing and getting stronger.
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Mayra
Mar 2, 2011, 6:52 AM
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Wow! Thanks guys, you ROCK!!!! |
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MidnightR
Mar 2, 2011, 9:59 AM
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csproul wrote: MidnightR wrote: The grade doesn't matter so much. I climb V4, but I'm not having any more fun than I did when I was climbing V2. Not true...by increasing your grade, you've opened up more possibilities. There are a lot more fun climbs out there that are V4 and under as compared to those that are V2 and under.
Correct but there are also a lifetime of possibilities for V2 and below so it's not like you're exactly short of problems.
Also in the gym, the better you get the less hard problems there are to try in general. At my gym once you get above V6 the problems start diminishing very fast. For instance there are perhaps less than 6 problems V7-10 but hundreds below that.
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saint_john
Mar 2, 2011, 6:07 PM
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Mayra wrote: I am 35, started climbing end of last year, after 3 months, trying to climb 3 times a week.
Who knows... after a nice long break you could come back and climbg really well.
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