|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 10, 2011, 7:01 PM
Post #1 of 27
(15021 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
I'm looking for a good bouldering area WITHIN six hours of the Philadelphia area for a four/five day trip in the very near future.
The Triple Crown Series areas are a bit too far a drive for such a short trip; I'm hoping to keep it under six hours travel to get the most of it.
Best case scenario would be something:
1) with a decent concentration of quality problems
2) that has a nicely documented guidebook
3) that won't be jam packed (ie, Gunks)
The best i've been able to come up with is Coopers Rock, but i'm wondering if there's something better.
The East Coast areas i've been to are Gunks, Haycock Mountain, Governors Stable, Hunters Rock and Rumney (maybe more, i forget; we don't have much good rock in the area). If Coopers doesn't offer "better" bouldering than those areas, it's probably not worth driving at all, i'm guessing...
Does Coopers have more to offer in the way of quality problems/good concentration than the aforementioned?
Do you guys know of anything else that is worth a four/five day trip and is within six hours of Philly?
Thanks in advance...
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Mar 10, 2011, 7:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
ClimbSoHigh
Mar 10, 2011, 7:20 PM
Post #2 of 27
(15003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2008
Posts: 208
|
You might want to check out stuff around PA, I hear there is a good amount of bouldering, and probably can find something much closer than Rumney. This site looked like a pretty good resource...
http://www.paclimbing.com/areas_database_page.htm
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 10, 2011, 7:29 PM
Post #3 of 27
(14979 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
The problem is, most of the good bouldering in PA is the stuff i just mentioned above (Haycock, Governors, Hunters).
Unless you know of an area i haven't been to/heard of, there's not enough going on for non-locals to invest a trip.
|
|
|
|
|
cintune
Mar 10, 2011, 7:39 PM
Post #4 of 27
(14970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293
|
Try a message to dbrayack, if he doesn't notice this thread first. Also, GS is open again in case you missed it, but you need an access pass for $60 a year.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 10, 2011, 7:49 PM
Post #5 of 27
(14956 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
Yeah, that's probably going to a plan B.
I spent eight hours or so climbing problems there on Saturday.
It's probably good enough to spend a few days there, but only if something like Coopers or another area doesn't end up being more promising.
And to be honest, as good as the rock there is, I wonder if it would make more sense to spend a few days climbing problems at the Gunks instead...
Man... moving to CO sounds like a better idea every time i think about it.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 10, 2011, 7:52 PM
Post #6 of 27
(14951 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
So yeah, Coopers. Anyone been?
|
|
|
|
|
cintune
Mar 10, 2011, 8:05 PM
Post #7 of 27
(14931 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293
|
There's a partial view of the Coopers Falcon guide at
http://books.google.com/...=0deOF1SwGagC&dq
Seneca is about the same distance, too, if you want to limit it to highballing the first pitches of the routes there.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 10, 2011, 8:10 PM
Post #8 of 27
(14923 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
Yeah, i saw that.
I'm planning to buy it if we go, but i'm hoping to discuss first-hand experience.
Though, looking at flickr streams makes it seem like a really cool place.
http://www.flickr.com/...291/with/4919357318/
|
|
|
|
|
sp115
Mar 11, 2011, 3:45 AM
Post #9 of 27
(14868 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
|
Lincoln Woods?
|
|
|
|
|
hyhuu
Mar 11, 2011, 1:12 PM
Post #10 of 27
(14833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492
|
Comming from Philly, your best bet is Coopers, unless you are bouldering V-double digit easily. I've been to Gunks, GS and Hunters before and in my opinion Coopers is certainly up there. If you don't my driving for another additional hour then the New River Gorge is another great option.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Mar 11, 2011, 1:26 PM
Post #11 of 27
(14825 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
I don't know much about Eastern Bouldering at all, but I have been to Cooper's quite a bit, and I highly recommend it if you haven't been there. I'm not a local or anything, but here's my take on it.
Pluses: concentrated bouldering, GREAT friction/slab/arete style problems, great scene with other climbers, diversity of many problems from v-easy to v6 or so, beautiful views, no access issues that I know of, lots of exploration potential, Morgantown is kind of a fun little town.
Drawbacks: the only camping I know of is pay camping at the park or at nearby private areas (hard to dirtbag there), there are a lot of tourists there depending on time of year, it rains a lot, all the bars in Morgantown are closed on Sunday (at least when I checked), there isn't a lot of steep gym-style climbing (more techy than thuggish), not the place to go for v-double digit numbers chasing, beware of the v5 grade– it can either be totally casual, or insanely hard.
Get the guidebook off of Amazon for not that much. Classic routes are
Always Dry Roof v2
Tomb Raider v2-3
Moby's Dick v3
Mushrooms v3
Electric Avenue v4
Humpy v4
Woody's Arete v4/5
Roundhouse v5
Twist da Hick v5
Overall, Cooper's is a really cool place to hang out and boulder in a beautiful setting. Kind of a B+ version of HP40. Definitely worth a trip.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Mar 11, 2011, 1:45 PM
Post #12 of 27
(14816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Not sure how far it is, but you might also want to check out the New. The downside is that things aren't documented as well as, say, Coopers. But, there's an awful lot of it. And an awful lot more that's undeveloped. The one bouldering guidebook, Sketches, is out of print, but if you call up Water Stone Outdoors ((304)574-2425) and tell them what you want to do, I bet they can come up with a loaner copy. If—IF—I can get some free time, which is no easy feat these days, I'd also be happy to tour you around a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
KirbyC
Mar 11, 2011, 2:15 PM
Post #13 of 27
(14803 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2008
Posts: 118
|
Another vote of confidence for Cooper's. It's got plenty to keep you excited for 4-5 days, the rock quality is really nice ("gritstone," which is some sort of sandstone, very grippy but not pebbly, and def not sharp).
It's not LRC/HP/Rocktown, but I think it is way better than the Gunks, I've *heard* from those who've been to both that it is orders of magnitude better than GS, AND there's a great guidebook for it.
I agree that V5 can be all over the place, and I'd say V4 can be as well.. But there are some amazingly good problems there. Camping will be your only downfall, as for some reason it's kind of expensive (16 bucks a night I think? Or maybe 21? I can't remember).
A few more classics you should check out in addition to camhead's excellent list:
Black Scar - V1
Roof of Death - V3
Anti-Elvis-V4
Question Mark- V5
Bitch Slap Arete- V5+
Shadow Boxer - V6
Bizarro - V6
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 11, 2011, 2:51 PM
Post #14 of 27
(14788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
sp115 wrote: Lincoln Woods?
KirbyC wrote: Camping will be your only downfall, as for some reason it's kind of expensive (16 bucks a night I think? Or maybe 21? I can't remember).
|
|
|
|
|
KirbyC
Mar 11, 2011, 3:01 PM
Post #15 of 27
(14777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2008
Posts: 118
|
OH SHIT-- that just reminds me. Coopers Rock State Forest is gated off until April 1. That means you'd have to hike a mellow 2.5 miles to the boulders from the outside parking lot. That might put a big damper on going there if you are doing anything more than a single day trip. After April 1st you can drive up to each area, and hike <5 minutes to get anywhere. Bummer, you are missing a great spot.
Why are the rates so high? I don't really know. I think these sites cater to people with RVs rather than dirtbag campers/climbers. Kinda sucks. But they are for groups of people, not per person.
Rates at the SF campground--23/six people
http://www.coopersrockstateforest.com/rates.html
Rates at Sand springs campground (4 miles away)--22/ four people
http://www.sandspringscampground.com/siterates.html
|
|
|
|
|
gmggg
Mar 11, 2011, 3:03 PM
Post #16 of 27
(14776 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099
|
sp00ki wrote: sp115 wrote: Lincoln Woods? Tell me more... KirbyC wrote: Camping will be your only downfall, as for some reason it's kind of expensive (16 bucks a night I think? Or maybe 21? I can't remember). Jesus christ, wtf for? Is that per person??
Lincoln Woods is OK. I find a lot of the problems to be somewhat contrived. The real advantage to coming this way is that you could potentially hit Pawtuckaway as well and maybe the gunks on the way back to PA. You'd get a good sampling of everything the North East has to offer. (well except the stuff up in Northern Vermont)
That would all depend on your road tripping and climbing style though since it'd be a bit more of a drive for you. 5-6 hours to RI, 2 hours from there to NH, 3-4 hours to NY, and 3-4 hours back home.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
sp115
Mar 11, 2011, 4:30 PM
Post #18 of 27
(14742 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
|
gmggg wrote: The real advantage to coming this way is that you could potentially hit Pawtuckaway as well and maybe the gunks on the way back to PA. You'd get a good sampling of everything the North East has to offer. (well except the stuff up in Northern Vermont)
Can't argue with this recommendation, it would be a great trip.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Mar 11, 2011, 10:32 PM
Post #19 of 27
(14698 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
sp00ki wrote: Yeah, that's probably going to a plan B. I spent eight hours or so climbing problems there on Saturday. It's probably good enough to spend a few days there, but only if something like Coopers or another area doesn't end up being more promising. And to be honest, as good as the rock there is, I wonder if it would make more sense to spend a few days climbing problems at the Gunks instead... Man... moving to CO sounds like a better idea every time i think about it.
You're 5 hours from great bouldering in the Adirondacks... not sure if that's too far or not but the camping is usually free. Probably a bit of snow up there at the moment though?
You certainly don't need to move to Colorado for good bouldering.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 11, 2011, 10:40 PM
Post #20 of 27
(14696 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
I didn't realize there was bouldering in the 'Dacks.. I'm going to look into it.
And no-- definitely don't have to move there for good bouldering, but the prospect of being less than an hour from SO MANY different quality climbing areas definitely makes my tummy flip.
|
|
|
|
|
yodadave
Mar 13, 2011, 1:21 PM
Post #21 of 27
(14643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 510
|
I'll just throw this out as another option. Not the best or the best for this time of year but the Niagara Glen is pretty cool place to boulder with nice cheap camping close by. I think it would be closer to 7 than 6 hours and again i know it's not the time of year for it. But it is quality it's got a lot of problems and it has a beautiful feel bouldering there.
|
|
|
|
|
lofstromc
Mar 13, 2011, 1:43 PM
Post #22 of 27
(14634 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 528
|
Did you check out newenglandbouldering.com?
|
|
|
|
|
The_Barbarian
Mar 31, 2011, 6:38 PM
Post #24 of 27
(14370 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2009
Posts: 4
|
If you are passing through/near Harpers Ferry, WV you could always try out this stuff
http://harpersferryclimbing.blogspot.com
http://www.harpersferryclimbing.com
You won't find too many people who know a lot about the place. But, if you have a little time you can climb some good problems. Download the pdf guide ( http://harpersferryclimbing.com/THE_GUIDE_DOWNLOAD.pdf). It is rough but will get you to stuff. There are different rock types in the gorge, make sure to read on each area so you know what to expect.
Good luck with your search.
|
|
|
|
|
Classicjoe87
Mar 31, 2011, 8:02 PM
Post #25 of 27
(14350 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 16, 2009
Posts: 1
|
I will first add to the vote for Coopers. Have you checked out Hermitage outside of Gettysburg? There is plenty there with very little in the way crowds...or a topo. Explore and you will not be disappointed.
Also, check out the Mt. Gretna topo on this site. It is just outside of Harrisburg and worth the trip. Same rock as Governor's Stable, but no use fee. Get there before the ticks get out of control in the summer.
Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
