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norcalclimber
Dec 29, 2002, 8:59 AM
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I am failry new to the sport and live in the bay area so with weather like we have been having i am trying out the planit granite indoor gym.
Can someone point me in the right direction for finding the cheapest gear on line? I have heard stay away from cheap shoes. What are some cheap brands and good brands.
Terms and lingo talk for this sport. Maybe someone can run by me a few basic terms and words commonly used?
thanks
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brutusofwyde
Dec 29, 2002, 9:04 AM
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Hey Norcalclimber:
Welcome!
Try Wilderness Exchange on San Pablo Avenue
in Berkeley, just south of Gilman, almost across the street from REI.
This shop features used gear and seconds.
Cheaper than anything you will find new.
Brutus
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nadroj
Dec 29, 2002, 9:07 AM
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Check out "Articles / Climbing terms" (scroll down on the right) it's very comprehensive.
As for gear, my tip is spend a little extra on your harness to get one that you find comfortable. I just got the cheapest one I could find when I started and ended up buying another one four months later because it was too uncomfortable. I still have the second harness and it's still very comfortable....Ahhhh petzl!!!!!!
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norcalclimber
Dec 29, 2002, 9:27 AM
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ooh blisters i am getting all kinds of blisters on my hands anything i can do to prevent? Do i just need to get alot of climbing under my belt or tape?
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crack_head
Dec 29, 2002, 2:09 PM
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climb more often and your hands will get calused, dont but lotion and $#!& on them that just makes them soft. the blisters will go away after you start climbing reguraly. as for gear, check out www.sierratradingpost.com for cloths and sometimes they have some great deals on gear. www.rei-outlet.com great site for quallity gear at closeout prices. www.northermountain.com they have tons of cheap gear that have blems or are seconds. www.moosejaw.com is great because you can get 10% off enything w/out being a member (just type in forgot in the menber # blank!) hope that helps!
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mhr2000
Dec 29, 2002, 7:42 PM
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I just found all my stuff at backcountrygear and gearexpress.
Between the two I found everything I needed. I plan on doing my shoe shopping at the local gym so I can try several on.
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calamity_chk
Dec 29, 2002, 9:59 PM
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I got some ubber cheap draws (~$6 each) at http://www.barrabes.com/home.asp.
I'm also on the "One of" list at Mountaingear.com and Mountainwoman.com .. both of which have killer deals on stuff.
amber
[ This Message was edited by: clymbr_chk on 2002-12-29 14:03 ]
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norcalclimber
Dec 29, 2002, 11:48 PM
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http://www.mgear.com/pages/Product/product.asp?level1_id=16&level2_id=387&level3_id=691&item=931105&level2_title=Rock+Shoes+%26+Harnesses&level3_title=Rock+Shoes
How about these shoes for myself? There on sale at my gym for 100$ but they have a different heel sole than most i have seen wear at my gym. What is that type of sole for and would it be ok to use?
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smithclimber
Dec 30, 2002, 12:52 AM
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The Five Ten Hueco is a good shoe for long trad (you are placing gear into cracks, rather than clipping bolts) routes.
The underside of the heel has padding and tread for a bit more traction. Both of these features are designed to make the walk-off descents (common on long trad routes) alot more comfortable. These types of shoes shouldn't be sized very tight like you would want for sport climbing or gym climbing (this is why they are on sale at your gym, few gym climbers are going out to do long trad climbs, hence the lack of sales for that model in the gym).
Five Ten Huecos also have a rounded toebox, again this is well suited for a comfortable shoe which you are primarily sticking into cracks anyway. For sport climbing and/or gym climbing you would do well to get shoes with a pointy toebox (you will find your footholds feel more secure when you are trying to stand on a small edge or stuff your big toe into a small pocket) and you will want them to be tighter in fit (very snug, yet NOT painful) than a "trad shoe". A trad shoe is sized comfortably since you will be wearing it for longer periods of time and you will be climbing at a level below your maximum difficulty. Sport/gym shoes are worn tighter since they allow you to stand on smaller holds easier than loose shoes and it's on the sport/gym routes where you will be trying to climb at or just above your maximum difficulty.
Summary: Sport/gym shoes = tighter fit (but you take them off inbetween climbs) with more pointed toebox works better for "face" climbing as opposed to "trad" shoes.
Trad shoes = less tighter fit with rounded toebox for comfort (your wearing them a long time) while you are jamming your feet in cracks.
Good luck.
Cheers, Wes
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