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Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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Poll: Most serious aid climb?
a1 16 / 32%
a2 11 / 22%
a3 10 / 20%
a4 7 / 14%
a5 6 / 12%
50 total votes
 

spikeddem


Mar 17, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Most serious aid climb that you've done?
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What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Mar 17, 2011, 10:26 PM)


socalclimber


Mar 18, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Tons Of Junk in Josh. I probably got the second ascent. I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to attempt it again. Then a copperhead route out here that required replacing bad heads. Both routes were ground fall the whole way.


iknowfear


Mar 18, 2011, 2:36 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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boy, I tell you, that A5 I did the other day at the gym!

(note: quite a few noobs do A5 at the gym: incompetent belayer so that a fall would likely end with serious injury or death; and constantly grabbing the quickdraws)


tower_climber


Mar 18, 2011, 8:44 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Wait, you're not allowed to grab the draws? WTF?!


donald949


Mar 18, 2011, 10:03 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.
I rufuse to vote since your poll does not include A6+.
Mad


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 10:24 AM
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Re: [tower_climber] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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tower_climber wrote:
Wait, you're not allowed to grab the draws? WTF?!
You're supposed to use them as monos.


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 10:24 AM
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Re: [donald949] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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donald949 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.
I rufuse to vote since your poll does not include A6+.
Mad
I didn't want your core-ness skewing the results! Cool


areyoumydude


Mar 18, 2011, 10:34 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP


marc801


Mar 18, 2011, 10:38 AM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!


marc801


Mar 18, 2011, 10:40 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.
You forgot to distinguish between old school and new school, as well as not including the dreaded A3+.


areyoumydude


Mar 18, 2011, 10:42 AM
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!


Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU


marc801


Mar 18, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
marc801 wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!


Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU
I beg to differ. BITD, I regularly shit my pants long before Bridwell-style PDH terrain!


areyoumydude


Mar 18, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
marc801 wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!


Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU
I beg to differ. BITD, I regularly shit my pants long before Bridwell-style PDH terrain!

True. SYP can happen when you least expect it.


flesh


Mar 18, 2011, 11:15 AM
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Aid climbing is so scary, I don't know how you guys do it.

I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think. I was so scared belaying him I never did an aid wall climb again. I was just waiting for a hundred foot wipper that would pull the bolts in the soft sandstone at the belay off the wall and take me down with him. i think I was more scared than he was.

You guys have some BIG balls. More power to ya.


Partner epoch
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Mar 18, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Re: [flesh] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Scary Aid!!! Belongs in the Aid Forum.


marc801


Mar 18, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Re: [flesh] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think.
Basically anything harder than A2/C2 can get real scary real fast!

Those L things are Leeper Cam Hooks. BTW, using them on granite or other hard rock is fine, but their use on the soft sandstone of Zion et al is totally unethical. They can easily blow out the fragile sides of a sandstone crack, creating ugly scarring and forcing use of pitons or even bolts by subsequent parties. DON'T USE THEM ON SANDSTONE!


rangerrob


Mar 19, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Thank you Marc for pointing that out. I wasn't sure if I was going to sound like a crochety old ass, but it did need to be said.


USnavy


Apr 29, 2011, 4:58 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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I refuse to vote on a poll that does not include A6+. David Palmada would be very pissed you did not recognize his first A6+ accent of that sandy route on the Fish Towers.


madbolter1


Aug 12, 2011, 1:54 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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I've done A6! I've done A6!

Oh, wait....

It was only A4+

Sigh


gimmeslack


Aug 12, 2011, 2:01 PM
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Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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I hear Wings of Steel is pretty fun.


madbolter1


Aug 12, 2011, 2:38 PM
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Yes, but only A4 according to the guides.


gimmeslack


Aug 12, 2011, 2:47 PM
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Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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"Drill Baby, Drill!"


madbolter1


Aug 12, 2011, 2:50 PM
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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"Drill first, think later" is my motto!


gimmeslack


Aug 12, 2011, 3:12 PM
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Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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So, would you call it 6?
...just curious, you know...


madbolter1


Aug 12, 2011, 4:25 PM
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to]
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Nah... I don't believe in the big 6.

A friend long ago used to say, "There are only three ratings: hard, really hard, and I can't do it. There are no easy climbs."

Works for me.

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