If I were doing this today I'd go one of two ways...
I'd go all Heliums (or wait for the DMM Alphas) and 10mm slings.
OR
I'd go with something with a narrow keylock on top to fit into old hangers and pins. The Helium nose is a bit large for some old school gear.
SO I'd go DMM Shadow or the new Camp Photon on top and a DMM Alpha or Spectre 2 on the bottom.
One thing to look at. Some of the really light biners are so small that I found the tripled up slings are really crammed in there and don't load the biners along the spine in the ideal way when not extended.
Completely unscientific poll on the best biner for an extendable draw.
I plan on spending approximately $200-$300 on the results of this poll. God I hope pancakes wins...
Might want to at least look at the Petzl Ange. Decent gate opening, plenty strong, and 34g.
If they are anywhere near durable as the Sprits I use, they should last quite a long time.
Specifications (Ange S) Available in two colors: - blue (M59 B) - dark gray (M59 G) 3-year guarantee Weight: 34 g Material: aluminum Breaking strength: - major axis: 22 kN - open gate: 10 kN - minor axis: 7 kN Gate opening: 26 mm
(This post was edited by sp115 on Mar 18, 2011, 3:56 PM)
Completely unscientific poll on the best biner for an extendable draw.
I plan on spending approximately $200-$300 on the results of this poll. God I hope pancakes wins...
I use Neutrinos mostly because I found them on sale for $4.00 each and bought a crap ton of them. They are nice I like the snappyness of the wire gate, so works just fine for me.
Completely unscientific poll on the best biner for an extendable draw.
I plan on spending approximately $200-$300 on the results of this poll. God I hope pancakes wins...
Might want to at least look at the Petzl Ange. Decent gate opening, plenty strong, and 34g.
If they are anywhere near durable as the Sprits I use, they should last quite a long time.
Specifications (Ange S) Available in two colors: - blue (M59 B) - dark gray (M59 G) 3-year guarantee Weight: 34 g Material: aluminum Breaking strength: - major axis: 22 kN - open gate: 10 kN - minor axis: 7 kN Gate opening: 26 mm
doesnt really matter too much .. i use DMM shields and WC nitros
as long as the notch is minimal or none ... whatevah floats yr boat ...
its not like buying all those fancy new $$$$ biners will make you a better climber anyways
been there, done that ... still gumby ...
F. I was really hoping that shedding those 350 grams on converting to heliums would bump my trad onsight from 5.7 to 5.8. New plan in the works....
I actually thing FANCY new gear CAN sometimes make a little difference. I color code my cam biners and when you're at your limit find that little extra tweak can make a difference. Same thing with notchless biners.
i have all my cams colour coated with neutrinos ... which arent fancy at all ... theyre one of the cheaper biners out there, as well as being fully notched
my nitros are as easy to use as my heliums/shields, and much cheaper ... despite having a minimal notch
put it this way ... a lot of hard climbing is done by people with older/used, not so fancy gear ... unless yr a super duper wowsah climber ... IMO yr better off thinking of why you cant climb something without a particular $$$$ biner .... and getting better/stonger
like i said ... i realized that shiny new toys doesnt make you any better a climber ... it just makes you believe you are one ...
look at all these big notched biners on uelis and honnolds nose rack ... speed climbing el cap no less !!!
i have all my cams colour coated with neutrinos ... which arent fancy at all ... theyre one of the cheaper biners out there, as well as being fully notched
my nitros are as easy to use as my heliums/shields, and much cheaper ... despite having a minimal notch
put it this way ... a lot of hard climbing is done by people with older/used, not so fancy gear ... unless yr a super duper wowsah climber ... IMO yr better off thinking of why you cant climb something without a particular $$$$ biner .... and getting better/stonger
like i said ... i realized that shiny new toys doesnt make you any better a climber ... it just makes you believe you are one ...
look at all these big notched biners on uelis and honnolds nose rack ... speed climbing el cap no less !!!
But if you're going to drop some serious money on a piece of gear that will be a staple of your rack, why not get something that you like using? I absolutely hate notch-gate biners and I knew that instant I picked up a Petzl Spirit.
But if you're going to drop some serious money on a piece of gear that will be a staple of your rack, why not get something that you like using? I absolutely hate notch-gate biners and I knew that instant I picked up a Petzl Spirit.
thats up to you ... im very comfortable with biners with a minimal notch that are fairly cheap
im under absolutely no illusions that it makes me a better climber than some old hardcore geezer with ovals
hans florine with his big notched biners on his record nose run with yuji
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Mar 18, 2011, 7:31 PM)
But if you're going to drop some serious money on a piece of gear that will be a staple of your rack, why not get something that you like using? I absolutely hate notch-gate biners and I knew that instant I picked up a Petzl Spirit.
thats up to you ... im very comfortable with biners with a minimal notch that are fairly cheap
im under absolutely no illusions that it makes me a better climber though
hans florine with his big notched biners on his record nose run with yuji
[image]http://i55.tinypic.com/25hn052.jpg[/image]
The only way I could keep up with Hans Florine while climbing would be if he gave me a piggy-back.
As for my preference, it probably has something to due with the fact that I'm and engineer and gear whore, and keylock biners just seem like a better idea.
I use BD Oz bieners for most of my runners, a few are the old hotwires.
However, the new hoodwire bieners look sweet, and CHEAP compared to Shield, ANGE and Helium the other notchless wires out there. If you notice a wiregate bias, you were right! I'm an Ice freak as well!
But if you're going to drop some serious money on a piece of gear that will be a staple of your rack, why not get something that you like using? I absolutely hate notch-gate biners and I knew that instant I picked up a Petzl Spirit.
thats up to you ... im very comfortable with biners with a minimal notch that are fairly cheap
im under absolutely no illusions that it makes me a better climber though
hans florine with his big notched biners on his record nose run with yuji
[image]http://i55.tinypic.com/25hn052.jpg[/image]
The only way I could keep up with Hans Florine while climbing would be if he gave me a piggy-back.
As for my preference, it probably has something to due with the fact that I'm and engineer and gear whore, and keylock biners just seem like a better idea.
You're not giving yourself enough credit. They are better. For both bolts and gear.
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