Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Most serious aid climb that you've done?

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Most serious aid climb that you've done?

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Poll: Most serious aid climb?
a1	16 / 32%
a2	11 / 22%
a3	10 / 20%
a4	7 / 14%
a5	6 / 12%
50 total votes

spikeddem

Mar 18, 2011, 5:25 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Most serious aid climb that you've done? Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.

(This post was edited by spikeddem on Mar 18, 2011, 5:26 AM)

socalclimber

Mar 18, 2011, 7:10 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Tons Of Junk in Josh. I probably got the second ascent. I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to attempt it again. Then a copperhead route out here that required replacing bad heads. Both routes were ground fall the whole way.

iknowfear

Mar 18, 2011, 9:36 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670

Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

boy, I tell you, that A5 I did the other day at the gym!

(note: quite a few noobs do A5 at the gym: incompetent belayer so that a fall would likely end with serious injury or death; and constantly grabbing the quickdraws)

tower_climber

Mar 18, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2010
Posts: 157

Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Wait, you're not allowed to grab the draws? WTF?!

donald949

Mar 18, 2011, 5:03 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (3 ratings)	Can't Post

spikeddem wrote:

What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.

I rufuse to vote since your poll does not include A6+.
Mad

spikeddem

Mar 18, 2011, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Re: [tower_climber] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

tower_climber wrote:

Wait, you're not allowed to grab the draws? WTF?!

You're supposed to use them as monos.

spikeddem

Mar 18, 2011, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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Re: [donald949] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

donald949 wrote:

spikeddem wrote:

What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.

I rufuse to vote since your poll does not include A6+.
Mad

I didn't want your core-ness skewing the results! Cool

areyoumydude

Mar 18, 2011, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

marc801

Mar 18, 2011, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [areyoumydude] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

areyoumydude wrote:

I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!

marc801

Mar 18, 2011, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

spikeddem wrote:

What do you think?

Edit: Note: Indoors counts too.

You forgot to distinguish between old school and new school, as well as not including the dreaded A3+.

areyoumydude

Mar 18, 2011, 5:42 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

marc801 wrote:

areyoumydude wrote:

I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!

Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU

marc801

Mar 18, 2011, 6:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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Re: [areyoumydude] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

areyoumydude wrote:

marc801 wrote:

areyoumydude wrote:

I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!

Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU

I beg to differ. BITD, I regularly shit my pants long before Bridwell-style PDH terrain!

areyoumydude

Mar 18, 2011, 6:10 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

marc801 wrote:

areyoumydude wrote:

marc801 wrote:

areyoumydude wrote:

I've done pitches rated A4 that were NBD and A1 pitches that were SYP

I'm familiar with Bridwell's rating system:
NBD
PDH
DFU

I don't recall there being an SYP!

Shit Yer Pants. Its right in between PDH and DFU

I beg to differ. BITD, I regularly shit my pants long before Bridwell-style PDH terrain!

True. SYP can happen when you least expect it.

flesh

Mar 18, 2011, 6:15 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419

Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Aid climbing is so scary, I don't know how you guys do it.

I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think. I was so scared belaying him I never did an aid wall climb again. I was just waiting for a hundred foot wipper that would pull the bolts in the soft sandstone at the belay off the wall and take me down with him. i think I was more scared than he was.

You guys have some BIG balls. More power to ya.

epoch
Moderator

Mar 18, 2011, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
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Re: [flesh] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Scary Aid!!! Belongs in the Aid Forum.

marc801

Mar 18, 2011, 6:55 PM
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Re: [flesh] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

flesh wrote:

I once did a free/aid route with my buddy in zions. Forgot the name, it was like 5.11 for 7 pitches and then c2-c3+ for three or four pitches. I did the free pitches then I sat there in disbelief as my buddy went up a qtr inch crack for 40 feet on a blank overhanging head wall with those little L shaped things called leaper cam hooks I think.

Basically anything harder than A2/C2 can get real scary real fast!

Those L things are Leeper Cam Hooks. BTW, using them on granite or other hard rock is fine, but their use on the soft sandstone of Zion et al is totally unethical. They can easily blow out the fragile sides of a sandstone crack, creating ugly scarring and forcing use of pitons or even bolts by subsequent parties. DON'T USE THEM ON SANDSTONE!

rangerrob

Mar 19, 2011, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
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Re: [marc801] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Thank you Marc for pointing that out. I wasn't sure if I was going to sound like a crochety old ass, but it did need to be said.

USnavy

Apr 29, 2011, 11:58 AM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

I refuse to vote on a poll that does not include A6+. David Palmada would be very pissed you did not recognize his first A6+ accent of that sandy route on the Fish Towers.

madbolter1

Aug 12, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2006
Posts: 37

Re: [spikeddem] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I've done A6! I've done A6!

Oh, wait....

It was only A4+

Sigh

gimmeslack

Aug 12, 2011, 9:01 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2006
Posts: 136

Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I hear Wings of Steel is pretty fun.

madbolter1

Aug 12, 2011, 9:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2006
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Yes, but only A4 according to the guides.

gimmeslack

Aug 12, 2011, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2006
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Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

"Drill Baby, Drill!"

madbolter1

Aug 12, 2011, 9:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2006
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

"Drill first, think later" is my motto!

gimmeslack

Aug 12, 2011, 10:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2006
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Re: [madbolter1] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

So, would you call it 6?
...just curious, you know...

madbolter1

Aug 12, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2006
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Re: [gimmeslack] Most serious aid climb that you've done? [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Nah... I don't believe in the big 6.

A friend long ago used to say, "There are only three ratings: hard, really hard, and I can't do it. There are no easy climbs."

Works for me.

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