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Partner camhead


Mar 17, 2011, 2:51 PM
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ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.


uni_jim


Mar 17, 2011, 2:53 PM
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Re: [Pres] How high [In reply to]
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Pres wrote:
at what point would you need to start using a belay system?quote]


It has nothing to do with how high I am, and everything to do with how likely I am to fall.


ceebo


Mar 17, 2011, 3:04 PM
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Re: [camhead] How high [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

I could write about thousands of every day common situations that are even more so, yet strangely accepted even though we have far less control over them. But it would be easier on my spell check program to just agree with you.


Pres


Mar 17, 2011, 3:34 PM
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DAMN!! This is a good watch!
Dean Potter


gmggg


Mar 17, 2011, 5:09 PM
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Re: [camhead] How high [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.


ceebo


Mar 17, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Re: [gmggg] How high [In reply to]
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gmggg wrote:
camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.

My fancy is to not allow auto belays to unavoidably suck up the work on body tension, or get use to half arse dynamics on a falling wall. But that is my opinion. Im sure they both offer safe alternitives.


Partner camhead


Mar 17, 2011, 10:41 PM
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ceebo wrote:
gmggg wrote:
camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.

My fancy is to not allow auto belays to unavoidably suck up the work on body tension, or get use to half arse dynamics on a falling wall. But that is my opinion. Im sure they both offer safe alternitives.

well, it's good to see you pushing the frontiers of indoor climbing. Truly a Potter-esque innovator you are.


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Re: [camhead] How high [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
gmggg wrote:
camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.

My fancy is to not allow auto belays to unavoidably suck up the work on body tension, or get use to half arse dynamics on a falling wall. But that is my opinion. Im sure they both offer safe alternitives.

well, it's good to see you pushing the frontiers of indoor climbing. Truly a Potter-esque innovator you are.

Just doing my part.


Pres


Mar 18, 2011, 1:05 PM
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Who are the top climbers today?


gmggg


Mar 18, 2011, 1:19 PM
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ceebo wrote:
gmggg wrote:
camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.

My fancy is to not allow auto belays to unavoidably suck up the work on body tension, or get use to half arse dynamics on a falling wall. But that is my opinion. Im sure they both offer safe alternitives.

What kind of auto belays do you have available?


Partner cracklover


Mar 18, 2011, 3:28 PM
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Re: [camhead] How high [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
gmggg wrote:
camhead wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.

that's ridiculous, and could quite likely injure you.

+1, not safe at all.

Get an auto belay or a treadwall. You can still trail a rope and make clips if that's your fancy.

And I thought that you meant that you were doing endurance training for free soloing. Not free soloing for endurance training.

That's just a bad idea all around.

My fancy is to not allow auto belays to unavoidably suck up the work on body tension, or get use to half arse dynamics on a falling wall. But that is my opinion. Im sure they both offer safe alternitives.

well, it's good to see you pushing the frontiers of indoor climbing. Truly a Potter-esque innovator you are.

Wait a minute, this is *indoor*? Oh. My. God.



GO


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 4:29 PM
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*


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Mar 18, 2011, 4:47 PM)


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 4:35 PM
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ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.
Maybe you can't find partners, because your rope is only one meter long.

Or, perhaps you can't find partners, because you walk around with a meter of rope tied to your harness. Honestly, that's even worse than people bouldering with their harnesses on, no joke. I'm thinking about going so far as to say that it's even gumbier-looking than people bouldering with their harnesses and a full rack of triples on it. Plus a PAS. Yep, pretty sure it is.

*Plonk*


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 5:20 PM
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Re: [cracklover] How high [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Wait a minute, this is *indoor*? Oh. My. God

The only time i have free climbed outdoor.. i was a kid and we use to scale the cliff faces at the beach on Saturdays. We would try to find bird nests to steal eggs.

I remember we use to go to the arcades after and always end up spending are bus fare. Then trying to bump the 2 pence machines. We usually got caught and thrown out by the owner, then having to jump the metro again.

The owner was one scary looking fucker, he had a false eye that was just pure grey.. and he never showed any kind of facial emotion.

Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Mar 18, 2011, 5:23 PM)


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 5:21 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.
Maybe you can't find partners, because your rope is only one meter long.

Or, perhaps you can't find partners, because you walk around with a meter of rope tied to your harness. Honestly, that's even worse than people bouldering with their harnesses on, no joke. I'm thinking about going so far as to say that it's even gumbier-looking than people bouldering with their harnesses and a full rack of triples on it. Plus a PAS. Yep, pretty sure it is.

*Plonk*

Wow, you dont come off as being narrow minded one bit.


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 5:28 PM
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ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.
Maybe you can't find partners, because your rope is only one meter long.

Or, perhaps you can't find partners, because you walk around with a meter of rope tied to your harness. Honestly, that's even worse than people bouldering with their harnesses on, no joke. I'm thinking about going so far as to say that it's even gumbier-looking than people bouldering with their harnesses and a full rack of triples on it. Plus a PAS. Yep, pretty sure it is.

*Plonk*

Wow, you dont come off as being narrow minded one bit.

Forgot to *plonk*.

Please tell me you're actually doing the full rack, harness, and one meter rope thing on a steep bouldering wall that has draws in t-nuts. I'd Paypal you $5, maybe $10, for a picture of that.

Moreover, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with such an activity. I just think it's insanely dorky. I mean, I'm a hell of a dorky guy, so I'm right there with you.


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 6:33 PM
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spikeddem wrote:
ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Ill assume you were genuinely interested their.

I put my harness on, tie in a 1m length rope and then up/down climb for 45 min, 3 sets. The 1M length is to clip on the way up and down just like in a lead (minus the down part). Mock me all you want Crazy No rope drag, but it forces the body posistions unique in leading, extra hand load and clip training.

Traversing is just not the same. I cant get away with using that as a means to train endurance anymore. I would love to have a partner who can find the time to climb as much as i can so that i don't need to do such things.. but i would also love to win the lottery as well.
Maybe you can't find partners, because your rope is only one meter long.

Or, perhaps you can't find partners, because you walk around with a meter of rope tied to your harness. Honestly, that's even worse than people bouldering with their harnesses on, no joke. I'm thinking about going so far as to say that it's even gumbier-looking than people bouldering with their harnesses and a full rack of triples on it. Plus a PAS. Yep, pretty sure it is.

*Plonk*

Wow, you dont come off as being narrow minded one bit.

Forgot to *plonk*.

Please tell me you're actually doing the full rack, harness, and one meter rope thing on a steep bouldering wall that has draws in t-nuts. I'd Paypal you $5, maybe $10, for a picture of that.

Moreover, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with such an activity. I just think it's insanely dorky. I mean, I'm a hell of a dorky guy, so I'm right there with you.

Not far off.

I use 25 foot walls and since its free climbing i can up/down climb a wall, then traverse to the next wall and up/down climb that as well without the need to touch the floor or tie in. 25 foot is small, so being able to get a variety of the walls done in my 45 min duration is really nice. The walls are already bolted with fixed draws. But i like your ''dorky'' vision.

I would ask you to TR once next time you climb (since i assume you would not be willing to free it) and then use the 1M length. At Least then you could comment on its lead training effect, or shall we ignore all its other benefits simply for it has no rope drag? sure, go for it. But i get the feeling you have too much pride anyway.. and you probably will never be in a circumstance where you have to resort to such things so whats the use?.

Its easier just to dismiss it, which is fine.. but you had to be a cock in the process.


Partner cracklover


Mar 18, 2011, 7:05 PM
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ceebo wrote:
Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.

I'm contagious? How is responding directly to what you said in your post "random irrelevant shit"? You didn't catch it from me, lol!

BTW, I've soloed in the gym before. When no-one was looking I did a quick lap on the hand crack. Not my brightest move ever, but only because I'd be bummed if they caught me and revoked my priv's or something.

Oh, and I'm not convinced that the idea of free-soloing to get a good workout in is such a terrible idea, if you're very experienced, and have a circuit you're comfortable with. NOTE - NOT FOR BEGINNERS. But in the gym? And with some kind of clippy thing? Ridiculous.

GO


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 8:52 PM
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cracklover wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.

I'm contagious? How is responding directly to what you said in your post "random irrelevant shit"? You didn't catch it from me, lol!

BTW, I've soloed in the gym before. When no-one was looking I did a quick lap on the hand crack. Not my brightest move ever, but only because I'd be bummed if they caught me and revoked my priv's or something.

Oh, and I'm not convinced that the idea of free-soloing to get a good workout in is such a terrible idea, if you're very experienced, and have a circuit you're comfortable with. NOTE - NOT FOR BEGINNERS. But in the gym? And with some kind of clippy thing? Ridiculous.

GO

Unless you would like to elaborate on the need to emphasise ''indoor'' then yes, irrelevant.

I am really struggling to understand your mentality. It appears you find it ridiculous to free solo (And from 25 foot, can we even call it that?) in a gym, even though you admit to doing it yourself. You just make no sense what so ever.. or was coming across as hypocritical your intended purpose.


But ''clippy thing''?, that clearly shows you have no idea what I'm talking about. So with that, why do you think you are in a position to put it down?. I surely don't mind a difference of opinion, but at least from a person who knows what their talking about. Its not like your asking a question ''what is it''.. your just saying ''fuck do i care its just wrong''. Pure ignorance.


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 8:55 PM
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ceebo wrote:
cracklover wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.

I'm contagious? How is responding directly to what you said in your post "random irrelevant shit"? You didn't catch it from me, lol!

BTW, I've soloed in the gym before. When no-one was looking I did a quick lap on the hand crack. Not my brightest move ever, but only because I'd be bummed if they caught me and revoked my priv's or something.

Oh, and I'm not convinced that the idea of free-soloing to get a good workout in is such a terrible idea, if you're very experienced, and have a circuit you're comfortable with. NOTE - NOT FOR BEGINNERS. But in the gym? And with some kind of clippy thing? Ridiculous.

GO

Unless you would like to elaborate on the need to emphasise ''indoor'' then yes, irrelevant.

I am really struggling to understand your mentality. It appears you find it ridiculous to free solo (And from 25 foot, can we even call it that?) in a gym, even though you admit to doing it yourself. You just make no sense what so ever.. or was coming across as hypocritical your intended purpose.


But ''clippy thing''?, that clearly shows you have no idea what I'm talking about. So with that, why do you think you are in a position to put it down?. I surely don't mind a difference of opinion, but at least from a person who knows what their talking about. Its not like your asking a question ''what is it''.. your just saying ''fuck do i care its just wrong''. Pure ignorance.

Now that I'm home--where you're not killfiled--I have a question. Why the hell would you ever post advice involving free soloing in the beginner forum?


olderic


Mar 18, 2011, 9:06 PM
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ceebo wrote:
cracklover wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.

I'm contagious? How is responding directly to what you said in your post "random irrelevant shit"? You didn't catch it from me, lol!

BTW, I've soloed in the gym before. When no-one was looking I did a quick lap on the hand crack. Not my brightest move ever, but only because I'd be bummed if they caught me and revoked my priv's or something.

Oh, and I'm not convinced that the idea of free-soloing to get a good workout in is such a terrible idea, if you're very experienced, and have a circuit you're comfortable with. NOTE - NOT FOR BEGINNERS. But in the gym? And with some kind of clippy thing? Ridiculous.

GO

Unless you would like to elaborate on the need to emphasise ''indoor'' then yes, irrelevant.

I am really struggling to understand your mentality. It appears you find it ridiculous to free solo (And from 25 foot, can we even call it that?) in a gym, even though you admit to doing it yourself. You just make no sense what so ever.. or was coming across as hypocritical your intended purpose.


But ''clippy thing''?, that clearly shows you have no idea what I'm talking about. So with that, why do you think you are in a position to put it down?. I surely don't mind a difference of opinion, but at least from a person who knows what their talking about. Its not like your asking a question ''what is it''.. your just saying ''fuck do i care its just wrong''. Pure ignorance.

Allow me to mediate. I (and I think Gabe also assumes this) assume that what you are doing is not actually free soloing but what amounts to a variation of roped soloing - where you clip your self into something fixed (presumably a bolt in the wall) to give yourself temporary protection while you are going up or down past a tricky part. Once past you unclip and maybe clip the next. If you had 2 tethers for clipping you could be protected (as long as the single bolt doesn't fail) for much of the time. This technique is SOP for many experienced climbers on long solo climbs outdoors. But if I am correct in understanding what you are doing it does seem pretty ridiculous in a gym. Surprising that if it is a public commercial gym that it is allowed.


ceebo


Mar 18, 2011, 9:12 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] How high [In reply to]
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Read my first post, i never said anything of the sort. It was the likes of you who turned it into something it did not need to be. Should you be kill filed for assuming all beginners are robotic sheep programed to follow me in jumping off a cliff?. Hell i would love to think i was influential enough to over rule thousands of years of primal instinct.

Olderec

I had considered that but no. I have a basic loop knot in 1 end, i clip this and clip it to my harness (saves tie and untie time). The meter length then runs down to the floor. Climb the wall, get to first clip.. pull the rope up and clip it in just like in a normal lead. I get near 2nd clip, pull rope.. it slides up through and out 1st clip. Clip second clip and continue.

The danger to me was different, i would rather fall 25 foot, really it is 20 foot from foot height not hand height. To fall possibly fall 1M or so onto a short dynamic rope (might as well be static at this point) that was clipped into a bolt like you described.. the likely hood of a back brake or lash seems far greater danger than landing on my feet from 20 foot. It is endurance, i pick routes that will not put me in a severe horizontal position.. if slipping here i may not right myself before hitting the floor.

Yes obviously when those people are talking about thousand foot falls, it is a different ball game.. it is risking a possible back injury over risking death. So clipping to a bolt is logical.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Mar 18, 2011, 10:00 PM)


Partner cracklover


Mar 18, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Re: [olderic] How high [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
ceebo wrote:
cracklover wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Sorry, I'm talking random irrelevant shit now but what can i say.. your contagious.

I'm contagious? How is responding directly to what you said in your post "random irrelevant shit"? You didn't catch it from me, lol!

BTW, I've soloed in the gym before. When no-one was looking I did a quick lap on the hand crack. Not my brightest move ever, but only because I'd be bummed if they caught me and revoked my priv's or something.

Oh, and I'm not convinced that the idea of free-soloing to get a good workout in is such a terrible idea, if you're very experienced, and have a circuit you're comfortable with. NOTE - NOT FOR BEGINNERS. But in the gym? And with some kind of clippy thing? Ridiculous.

GO

Unless you would like to elaborate on the need to emphasise ''indoor'' then yes, irrelevant.

I am really struggling to understand your mentality. It appears you find it ridiculous to free solo (And from 25 foot, can we even call it that?) in a gym, even though you admit to doing it yourself. You just make no sense what so ever.. or was coming across as hypocritical your intended purpose.


But ''clippy thing''?, that clearly shows you have no idea what I'm talking about. So with that, why do you think you are in a position to put it down?. I surely don't mind a difference of opinion, but at least from a person who knows what their talking about. Its not like your asking a question ''what is it''.. your just saying ''fuck do i care its just wrong''. Pure ignorance.

Allow me to mediate. I (and I think Gabe also assumes this) assume that what you are doing is not actually free soloing but what amounts to a variation of roped soloing - where you clip your self into something fixed (presumably a bolt in the wall) to give yourself temporary protection while you are going up or down past a tricky part. Once past you unclip and maybe clip the next. If you had 2 tethers for clipping you could be protected (as long as the single bolt doesn't fail) for much of the time. This technique is SOP for many experienced climbers on long solo climbs outdoors. But if I am correct in understanding what you are doing it does seem pretty ridiculous in a gym. Surprising that if it is a public commercial gym that it is allowed.

Bingo

GO


Partner cracklover


Mar 18, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Re: [ceebo] How high [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Read my first post, i never said anything of the sort. It was the likes of you who turned it into something it did not need to be. Should you be kill filed for assuming all beginners are robotic sheep programed to follow me in jumping off a cliff?. Hell i would love to think i was influential enough to over rule thousands of years of primal instinct.

Olderec

I had considered that but no. I have a basic loop knot in 1 end, i clip this and clip it to my harness (saves tie and untie time). The meter length then runs down to the floor. Climb the wall, get to first clip.. pull the rope up and clip it in just like in a normal lead. I get near 2nd clip, pull rope.. it slides up through and out 1st clip. Clip second clip and continue.

The danger to me was different, i would rather fall 25 foot, really it is 20 foot from foot height not hand height. To fall possibly fall 1M or so onto a short dynamic rope (might as well be static at this point) that was clipped into a bolt like you described.. the likely hood of a back brake or lash seems far greater danger than landing on my feet from 20 foot. It is endurance, i pick routes that will not put me in a severe horizontal position.. if slipping here i may not right myself before hitting the floor.

Yes obviously when those people are talking about thousand foot falls, it is a different ball game.. it is risking a possible back injury over risking death. So clipping to a bolt is logical.

What?

GO


redlude97


Mar 18, 2011, 11:39 PM
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Re: [ceebo] How high [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Read my first post, i never said anything of the sort. It was the likes of you who turned it into something it did not need to be. Should you be kill filed for assuming all beginners are robotic sheep programed to follow me in jumping off a cliff?. Hell i would love to think i was influential enough to over rule thousands of years of primal instinct.

Olderec

I had considered that but no. I have a basic loop knot in 1 end, i clip this and clip it to my harness (saves tie and untie time). The meter length then runs down to the floor. Climb the wall, get to first clip.. pull the rope up and clip it in just like in a normal lead. I get near 2nd clip, pull rope.. it slides up through and out 1st clip. Clip second clip and continue.

The danger to me was different, i would rather fall 25 foot, really it is 20 foot from foot height not hand height. To fall possibly fall 1M or so onto a short dynamic rope (might as well be static at this point) that was clipped into a bolt like you described.. the likely hood of a back brake or lash seems far greater danger than landing on my feet from 20 foot. It is endurance, i pick routes that will not put me in a severe horizontal position.. if slipping here i may not right myself before hitting the floor.

Yes obviously when those people are talking about thousand foot falls, it is a different ball game.. it is risking a possible back injury over risking death. So clipping to a bolt is logical.
This may the most ridiculously contrived training i have ever heard of. Clipping bolts is not that hard. Do something useful like limiting your handholds or feet.

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