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2 aiders or 4?
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milesdesbrie


Dec 29, 2002, 9:19 PM
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2 aiders or 4?
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Just curious what kind of aider setup people here use, 2 aiders or 4. I learned to aid on 2 aiders and like the lessened fustercluckage compared to the 4 aider system; however, pretty much everything I've read recommends 4 aiders for serious aid. What do you use, and why?


passthepitonspete


Dec 29, 2002, 10:08 PM
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Back in the days when I used to use traditional aiders, I used four. But I would never go back - I'm Russian all the way.

Da!

At the speed I climb, I preferred the extra comfort.

I'm not even sure the right way how to use two aiders.

The Euros use some strange systems - aiders hanging off of fifis, and attached to their harness with a long 6mm cord.

Have a look at Tomaz Humar's setup. It looks like he's using three, doesn't it?

There are one or two other photos showing his aiders - you find them linked from the photo above.


stick233


Dec 29, 2002, 10:58 PM
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pete, what's the russian style? i was told that 4 was the way to go for convenience, and that 2 was more used when going for speed ascents. i KNOW you aren't a speed freak (solar shower and AC/DC). enlighten me...


copperhead


Dec 29, 2002, 11:23 PM
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Check out this thread:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=8418&forum=19&63


flamer


Dec 30, 2002, 5:12 PM
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I either use 2 or 3. You, generally have less of a Charlie Foxtrot if you use fewer aiders. I started with 4 and will never go back. Here is how the 3 aider method works. You have 2 aiders and 2 daisies set up the traditional way. Then you have a "floating" aider that you clip to the aider/daisy biner for tricky placements. I am very interested in the russian system as this appears to seriouly clean up the tangle that is aid climbing!
josh


elcapbuzz


Dec 30, 2002, 5:28 PM
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I use single aiders clipped to my daisies.

I used to float a third but hardly ever used it. I've only had to do is a few times.... but you can actually put both feet in one loop on the Yates aiders.

I've tried the Russian system. It didn't work fast enough for me. Maybe I didn't give it time to get better.... but I hate looking down at my feet when aiding. When free climbing, yes. But you shouldn't have to when aiding, if you have the right aidiers.

Cheers, Ammon


smallwallmonkey


Dec 30, 2002, 7:37 PM
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I agree with Ammon, 2 is the way to go.

If you are using traditional, offset aiders, they are actually designed to stay open when you have 1 foot in. Not to mention the extreme tangle problem.

Admittedly, when you are planning on moving slow, ya might as well be comfortable. In that case, the Ruskies look superb. But if speed is your game, comfort will just urge you to pause and spend another few minutes pondering that placement...

max


wallrat


Dec 31, 2002, 5:49 PM
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   For what it's worth, I always use two pairs, with a five & a six step together. The five stepper is clipped on with a biner, and jug on it. I hang the pair on a 5 foot pc. of perlon, and tie a fifi on top. The idea being that they will lift out of a biner to do a few free moves without having to unclip it. Just be sure to tie the perlon into the top of the aider in case you tweak the fifi.


roughster


Dec 31, 2002, 5:58 PM
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Ditto here for the 2 aider system.

All it will take is aiding in a hgih wind situation to make any 4 aider user want to switch to a 2 aider system


full-time-climb
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Jan 2, 2003, 10:00 AM
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I have always used 4. I'm now using the Metolius adjustables. Very fast...


rockprodigy


Jan 2, 2003, 10:22 AM
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I have always used just 2 aiders (on easy aid...I haven't done anything above A3). I've never understood why you would want 4... but then I've never understood why anyone would want to bring a haulbag either....


iamthewallress


Jan 2, 2003, 12:24 PM
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For C1 vertical/subvertical splitters or bolt ladders, I agree that 2 aiders get in the way, but...

How do you do overhanging topstepped reachy placements in one aider when using the 2 aider system? I would imagine that going counter pressure btw just one foot and your fifi would be off-balance and would make you want to pivot like a barn door around that point.

Melissa

[ This Message was edited by: iamthewallress on 2003-01-02 12:25 ]


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