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joedag90
Mar 26, 2011, 11:28 PM
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I am having quite a difficult time getting started with my Metolious 8-Step aid ladders. After reading Chris McNamara's How to Big Wall Climb book, I began practicing aider technique. Problem is that I Don't have an easily accessible wall available to me that is less than Vertical. I work in a rock gym and have plenty of vertical bolt ladders available to me.
So now the problem. I am having a very tough time moving up in my aiders. I feel like my toes are being crushed, and all I do is flail around.
So, how far am I supposed to place my feet in the aiders? What style of footwear should I use? How to I get my foot all the way in when the aider is pushed against the wall?
More or less, how do you get into, and move in aiders.
As I said, it is a stupid question, but I really want to aid.
Thanks.
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airforceclmr
Mar 27, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Let me start by saying that I by no means claim to be an expert in aiding. That being said, when i aid climb at work we are in heavy boots so pinched toes are not an issue. The times i've done it on my own i have been in my 5.10 Guide approach shoes and they also haven't been a problem. Are you using your rock shoes?
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coastal_climber
Mar 27, 2011, 12:31 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_a6E_tYyVg
I usually wear 3/4 shank mountain boots, but shoes work fine... I've heard a saying about making sure aiding is as uncomfortable as possible, so you move faster... lol.
When its against a wall, just catch the step you want with your toe, and pull it back, and as it swings away from the wall, slip your foot into it.
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vegastradguy
Mar 27, 2011, 1:44 AM
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you want a stiff shoe with a burly toe for aiders. vert/slabby stuff is kind of a PITA, but moving quickly is key- get into your second steps as quickly as possible, fifi in direct to the hanger, then dick around settling your feet.
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joedag90
Mar 27, 2011, 2:56 AM
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I was wearing hiking boots but I'm gonna try climbing shoes tomorrow. My biggest problem is getting my feet correctly in the aid ladder. For example, getting my feet far enough in rather than just my toes.
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moose_droppings
Mar 27, 2011, 3:29 AM
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joedag90 wrote: I was wearing hiking boots but I'm gonna try climbing shoes tomorrow. My biggest problem is getting my feet correctly in the aid ladder. For example, getting my feet far enough in rather than just my toes.
Getting just a toe in is fine, especially once you get to the top couple of rungs, and stiff souled boots help. If you want comfort and rest, do it in your lower steps. Also, when you get to the top rungs, putting the step webbing way back in your arches pulls on the piece your standing on in a bit of an outward direction. Not always a big deal, but when pieces (especially hooks) get dicey, it can make a difference.
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joedag90
Mar 27, 2011, 3:56 AM
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If I don't get fully into the aider with my feet, should I fifi in? When I get my full foot in, I almost always feel bomber. My biggest problem is getting my foot into the aiders on the higher steps (Like where my waist is at the pro.) I just can't put my foot in far enough because of the space between the aider and wall.
Thanks again everyone for the input.
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coastal_climber
Mar 27, 2011, 4:08 AM
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Well, if you fifi into the daisy on that next aider, then just hang, then pull your feet out of the lower aiders and walk them up in the ones your hanging off of.
All this takes is a bit of practice then you'll have it dialed. Its not rocket science.
In terms of getting your feet higher, or "top stepping" as its called, it takes practice, core strength, and balance. If your fifi'd into the biner on the aiders, then get your feet up so your in a crouching position, then just push down with your legs and force your way into a standing position. (this puts a ton of pressure onto your harness, but allows you to get high up on over-hanging terrain)
(This post was edited by coastal_climber on Mar 27, 2011, 4:09 AM)
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potreroed
Mar 27, 2011, 4:28 AM
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coastal_climber wrote: When its against a wall, just catch the step you want with your toe, and pull it back, and as it swings away from the wall, slip your foot into it.
Practice, practice, practice and there's still going to be times when getting your foot into the step seems impossible. Just the other day I was hanging off a tiny hook and couldn't get my foot into the aider for the life of me. I was getting quite irritated and had to keep reminding myself to be patient.
The best tips I can give someone starting out on aid is to get and learn to use an adjustable fifi hook and learn to pass stuff around behind yourself instead of in front.
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moose_droppings
Mar 27, 2011, 5:13 AM
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You can twist your foot sideways (knee out) and wedge it in between the wall and the aider's next step and force it in further before you straighten your leg to stand up on it.
Like was said above, play around and practice, it's not rocket surgery science.
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epoch
Moderator
Mar 28, 2011, 3:13 PM
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Moved from Beginners.
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