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ianwatson
Mar 21, 2011, 7:12 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 66
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my harness is going to arrive at my house today i will use it a bit and post how i like it after a few outings.
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psprings
Mar 27, 2011, 11:08 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 254
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FWIW-
I've had this harness since it came out. Some observations:
1. Either you like the plastic molded gear loops, or you dont. I don't- I think they totally suck. The metolius harness is a nice option if you feel the same way.
2. Contrary to Vegastradguy, I hardly think that make a gear loop hold 10Kn is hardly "dumbing" the sport down, rather it is making a safer harness should you do something wrong (think about rappelling in the dark and your chances for clipping the wrong loop). It's a matter of perspective here. I dont see people hating on Petzl or other companies that have their harnesses in a state of always doubled back.
3. Which leads me to the waist belt. I'd love to see it like most harnesses, that have gone to a "always doubled back" system. More safer = more betterer! This is my only thing that I think could be improved with the harness.
Total rating: 4.5/5
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ianwatson
Mar 28, 2011, 1:42 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 66
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I took my new harness out this weekend, and i am very happy with it. It was good for all day comfort, i like how the gear loops are offset somewhat i put a set of mastercams 0-6 on one loop, nuts tri-cams on another loop and draws on another still had some room. seems very well built.
now the only real con i have is it is a tad heavy.
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j_ung
Mar 28, 2011, 3:05 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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ckirkwood9 wrote: I'm really looking for someone who has actual experience with the harness rather than opinions on the design.
I climb in one of these exclusively. It's my third Safe Tech in a row. I have never accidentally or otherwise tied into a non-tie-in point.
Though Metolius bills it as extra safe and calls it the "Safe Tech," there are other reasons why someone might like extra-strong gear loops. I do a lot of route development and some rebolting, and frankly, I love being able to clip my drill, my tools and a bunch stainless steel to my gear loop and not have to give a crap about how strong it is.
Second, it's ridiculously adjustable. I'm short and a little stocky, and I love being able to customize the fit accordingly.
Third, I'm about a year and a half out from low-back surgery, so I need something with real meat to the support. This has it in spades. I can hang and drill for hours with no adverse effects. I'd never attempt that in most other harnesses.
So there you go—three reasons to consider buying one of these, and none have anything to do with accidentally tying in to a leg-loop keeper strap. 
Here's my full review.
http://www.gear.com/...luxe-harness-review/
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ckirkwood9
Mar 28, 2011, 3:46 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 262
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In reply to: I’m almost as worried about accidentally tying into a gear loop as I am accidentally onsighting 5.15.
HAHAH... excellent.
Good selling point about hauling heavy loads from the various loops on the harness.
I have yet to hit the gunks this year for some trad fun, but am looking forward to it in this harness. It's really comfortable in the gym, so far so good. I am a little concerned how my trad gear will rack due to the overlapping gear loops, but surely it'll work out fine, OR I'll come up with a new way of racking.
Agreed to several who mentioned difficulty with double-backing the waist belt... it IS a little more difficult than my BD Blizzard was, but not a show-stopper.
Cheers to all.
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j_ung
Mar 28, 2011, 10:34 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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Heh, glad you liked that.
I may be so used to it that I just don't notice any difficulty doubling back. As for racking, I put all my protection on the front two loops (smallest in front) and all my runners/draws on the back. No troubles to report! I think you'll like it.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Mar 28, 2011, 10:34 PM)
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nswelton
Apr 6, 2011, 1:30 PM
Post #33 of 33
(1696 views)
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Registered: May 30, 2001
Posts: 31
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i have been using mostly metolius harnesses since i started climbing. i like that you can adjust the rise of the leg loops, which allows you to get a very precise fit. i am unaware of any other harness that allows you to do this.
as a result of the leg loop adjustability, i can hang in them longer and more comfortably than any other harness i've used. i did my first big wall in a very minimalistic older metolius harness, and found it way more comfortable than my subsequent misty mountain cadillac.
i highly recommend these harnesses.
as far as all the safety stuff goes, if it's safer, great. many great climbers have almost killed themselves with beginner errors.
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