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Partner devkrev


Apr 11, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #26 of 36 (4248 views)
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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Re: [cracklover] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
devkrev wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
iamtacos wrote:
mr.tastycakes wrote:
IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful.

*Flame suit on*

So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear...

I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive.

Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E.

dev

FYI, just so you know, this is not universal.

I climbed at the Gunks for nearly ten years, and always brought my hexes with me. Unlike many climbers, I did not bring doubles in cams. I preferred to cover that range with hexes.

However, in climbs at 5.9 and up, I found that hexes had much less utility. At 5.9, I'd only want them about half the time, and above that, only rarely.

GO

A great thing about climbing is that words like "always" and "never" almost always never apply.


ckirkwood9


Apr 18, 2011, 11:56 AM
Post #27 of 36 (4181 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 261

Re: [devkrev] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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My rack (admittedly a little large but Iím a gear ho)

* aliens: black - yellow (yes many don't trust them, but a good many gunks climbers still use them OH and many don't like the larger sizes... i have them but rarely place them)

* black diamond camalots: .3-4 (fav piece YELLOW - it saved me on a 30-foot whipper in Vegas when a hold broke)

* standard set of nuts - i have BD.

* 4 lockers for setting up anchors or crux placements where unclipping would be detrimental

* 10-12 extendable trad draws (i used camp nanos on both ends with 24" mammut slings)

* 2 extendable trad draws (lockers on both ends with 48" mammut slings)

* an extra red mammut sling (not sure of size)

* 20' cordalette for building anchors

The pieces i use most in the gunks are the small aliens and the camalots up to size 1, occasionally the larger sizes will come in handy though. I know a lot of gunkies like tri-cams, they're not for me though. I've heard it said that they're great for those placements where NOTHING else will work.

Have fun dropping into the rabbit hole of gear ~


rangerrob


Apr 18, 2011, 3:12 PM
Post #28 of 36 (4156 views)
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Registered: Apr 7, 2003
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Re: [ckirkwood9] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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Your rack doesn;t seem overly large. There are a lto of people out there climbing with a double set of cams in the Gunks. I'm talking from black alien sized right on through gold or blue camalot sized. Plus 2 or three tri-cams, nuts. Now that's a lot.

I tennd to carry more slings, but that's because I am frequently scared and I place a lot of gear. I carry around 14 tripled slings, and a 4 footer over the shoulder. Most times I have left over, but it SUUUUCKS running out of slings and having to use nuts and tri-cams as slings.


esander4


Apr 18, 2011, 3:32 PM
Post #29 of 36 (4154 views)
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Registered: Nov 7, 2010
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Re: [ckirkwood9] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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ckirkwood9 wrote:
My rack (admittedly a little large but Iím a gear ho)

* aliens: black - yellow (yes many don't trust them, but a good many gunks climbers still use them OH and many don't like the larger sizes... i have them but rarely place them)

* black diamond camalots: .3-4 (fav piece YELLOW - it saved me on a 30-foot whipper in Vegas when a hold broke)

* standard set of nuts - i have BD.

* 4 lockers for setting up anchors or crux placements where unclipping would be detrimental

* 10-12 extendable trad draws (i used camp nanos on both ends with 24" mammut slings)

* 2 extendable trad draws (lockers on both ends with 48" mammut slings)

* an extra red mammut sling (not sure of size)

* 20' cordalette for building anchors

The pieces i use most in the gunks are the small aliens and the camalots up to size 1, occasionally the larger sizes will come in handy though. I know a lot of gunkies like tri-cams, they're not for me though. I've heard it said that they're great for those placements where NOTHING else will work.

Have fun dropping into the rabbit hole of gear ~

Yeah that's not a large rack, that's more of a standard rack.


joeforte


May 25, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #30 of 36 (3959 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Re: [iamtacos] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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My Gunks rack:

1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams

8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord

I used to carry doubles of cams, and a #3 and 4, but I rarely used them. I leave them home and bring the 4 hexes and 1/2 set of offsets instead. Much lighter less bulky. Cheaper to bail on too, if you ever had to.

If you want to buy trad gear, first start with a set of nuts. They are the most important piece of any trad rack. Then you can pick up some 24" and 48" slings. You can lead a lot of easy trad routes with just nuts and slings. Later you will add cams. First, try out a bunch and see what you like best.


joeforte


May 25, 2011, 8:51 PM
Post #31 of 36 (3958 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Re: [devkrev] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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devkrev wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
iamtacos wrote:
mr.tastycakes wrote:
IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful.

*Flame suit on*

So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear...

I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive.

Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E.

dev

I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you hear my cowbells and realize I'm on a .12.

On hard, pumpy routes, I'd much rather have a few light hexes as doubles or big gear than those heavy C4s. Don't get me wrong, I love the C4's, but they weight a ton. I only carry 3: .75, 1 and 2.


Partner devkrev


May 26, 2011, 1:18 AM
Post #32 of 36 (3936 views)
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933

Re: [joeforte] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
devkrev wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
iamtacos wrote:
mr.tastycakes wrote:
IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful.

*Flame suit on*

So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear...

I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive.

Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E.

dev

I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you hear my cowbells and realize I'm on a .12.

On hard, pumpy routes, I'd much rather have a few light hexes as doubles or big gear than those heavy C4s. Don't get me wrong, I love the C4's, but they weight a ton. I only carry 3: .75, 1 and 2.


I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you spray about how hard you climb on the internet and realize it means nothing Tongue

I don't climb hard pumpy routes, I'm too weak.


sp115


May 26, 2011, 7:29 AM
Post #33 of 36 (3910 views)
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [joeforte] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
My Gunks rack:

1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams

8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord

May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?


msaks


May 26, 2011, 2:48 PM
Post #34 of 36 (3876 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2003
Posts: 24

Re: [sp115] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
joeforte wrote:
My Gunks rack:

1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams

8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord

May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?

And no red alien/purple camalot size piece? Not as essential as a green or yellow alien size cam but nevertheless seems like a significant gap in pro.


joeforte


May 26, 2011, 4:57 PM
Post #35 of 36 (3859 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093

Re: [sp115] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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sp115 wrote:
joeforte wrote:
My Gunks rack:

1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams

8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord

May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?

So I don't have to use up a 48 and a 24 when I need a long extension, slinging long trees, far away anchor point, etc. It is dyneema so it take up little space, weights practically nothing, and does not stretch (which is good for that far away anchor point)


joeforte


May 26, 2011, 5:08 PM
Post #36 of 36 (3858 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093

Re: [msaks] Gunks Rack [In reply to]
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msaks wrote:
sp115 wrote:
joeforte wrote:
My Gunks rack:

1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams

8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord

May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?

And no red alien/purple camalot size piece? Not as essential as a green or yellow alien size cam but nevertheless seems like a significant gap in pro.

The grey alien and purple C4 are close enough in my book. If you look up the stats, there is no gap. Green C4 covers down to .95, grey alien up to 1.2. Plus I carry pink and red tricam, which cover that range as well.

Grey alien= .68-1.2
Purple C4= .77-1.3
Green C4= .95-1.61

Like I said, I used to carry doubles in cams, and big cams, overlapping pieces, etc.. Now that I am more experienced, I prefer multi-purpose gear, with more variety and less quantity. I never feel like I am lacking pro.

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