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Nold
Apr 26, 2011, 3:54 PM
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A friend of mine told me about this place when I asked about multi pitch sport routes. My friend also said the area was sometimes unfriendly to out of towners. After reading about the location and surrounding areas I am seeing quite the opposite. While trying to dig up more information about the area I found this site.
http://www.elpotrerochico.com.mx/conta.htm
I will be traveling with a friend who speaks fluent spanish, and I myself can manage but am nowhere near fluent. I was just looking for up to date information. All the threads I found on this forum were old outdated ones. This trip will be at the end of the summer into fall, depending on temps. Thanks in advance for the information.
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ncrockclimber
Apr 26, 2011, 4:26 PM
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http://magicedspotrerochico.com/
Ed also posts here. PM him for the most accurate and current info on all things EPC.
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Nold
Apr 26, 2011, 4:34 PM
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Great, thanks for the reply!
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 4:40 PM
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I have seen no problem with it being unfriendly to out-of-towners, and there is (in-season) a fairly decent community of out-of-town climbers.
I'd say end of summer into fall is the wrong time to go, though, unless you really like climbing in very hot temperatures. Usual climb season at EPC tends to be November-March.
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Nold
Apr 26, 2011, 4:45 PM
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I am from middle georgia and am accoustomed to very hot/ humid summers. How hot are we talking? I also read that there are a number of shady climbs.
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 5:13 PM
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Average daytime highs in the mid-90s in August, high 80s in September. Rainfall spikes in the August-September period, too.
Climate overview: http://www.potrerochicoclimbing.com/weather.htm
This week's forecast:
http://climbpotrerochico.com/about/weather
And, yes, the cliffs face many different directions, and many are in fairly narrow canyons, so a lot of shade can be found, especially on the lower parts of the routes. Of course, it helps to know your way around what is/isn't shaded.
I'm not as used to the heat, being from Canada, and I was there end of March (2009). I found it warm, but not overly so, for climbing. (But, I consider sunny and 55f (12C) to be great climbing weather.)
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Nold
Apr 26, 2011, 5:39 PM
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Does anyone from the forums live there? It would be cool to meet up with someone so we didn't wander around aimlessly.
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Mariofercol
Apr 26, 2011, 5:56 PM
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Your friend is sooo wrong about the unfriendliness. EL potrero is one of my favorite places because of how easy is to meet people.
The climbing is great, long routes and well protected and maintain for the most part.
I was there in February and it was very calmed and safe in spite of the problems in Monterrey.
However, you are not choosing the best time. The climate is desertic and it gets hot. There are several walls on the shade but I don't know how cool they could be.
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Mariofercol
Apr 26, 2011, 5:56 PM
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Nold wrote: Does anyone from the forums live there? It would be cool to meet up with someone so we didn't wander around aimlessly.
PotreroEd
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 6:29 PM
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Mariofercol wrote: Nold wrote: Does anyone from the forums live there? It would be cool to meet up with someone so we didn't wander around aimlessly. PotreroEd
Yeah, but I think that is the time of year that he tends to leave the area and climb elsewhere. (I think Wisconsin, possibly.)
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mojomonkey
Apr 26, 2011, 6:43 PM
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Nold wrote: A friend of mine told me about this place when I asked about multi pitch sport routes. My friend also said the area was sometimes unfriendly to out of towners. After reading about the location and surrounding areas I am seeing quite the opposite. While trying to dig up more information about the area I found this site. http://www.elpotrerochico.com.mx/conta.htm I will be traveling with a friend who speaks fluent spanish, and I myself can manage but am nowhere near fluent. I was just looking for up to date information. All the threads I found on this forum were old outdated ones. This trip will be at the end of the summer into fall, depending on temps. Thanks in advance for the information.
Did your digging find this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._n/El_Potrero_Chico/
or this http://mountainproject.com/...ica/mexico/105910764
Note that both have info and EPC-specific discussion threads where many of your questions will have already been covered. The rockclimbing.com one: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...&category_id=299 There are a few about June, others about fall. There are multiple threads about weather, places to stay, and probably anything else you will wonder. Here this one about August, for example.
And if you post your any other questions there next time look for the "post new" button on the EPC thread page), other people with the same question will have it for easier reference.
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gblauer
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Apr 26, 2011, 6:58 PM
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I have been there at least 10 times and I can tell you that the locals and the climbers are totally friendly. Further, you won't wander around aimlessly. It's VERY easy to find all of the routes and climbing areas.
Ed is leaving for the summer in a few weeks. You will need to catch up with him ASAP to make sure you can get a copy of his guide book (the desk top published version). His book has a description of all of the areas and the climbs. You may be able to pick it up from Louis at Posada.
PM me if you want detailed information about where to stay, where to buy food, water safety, critters, great climbs, dog adoption etc.
So jealous that you are going. I won't be back there until November.
Enjoy.
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ncrockclimber
Apr 27, 2011, 12:42 AM
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I was there in the late summer in 2008 and it was hot. In the sun, it was really fucking hot! However, like others have mentioned, you can chase the shade easily. The shaded canyons were always comfortable.
On that trip, there were only a handful of other climbers there, but I had no problem finding someone to climb with during the 4 days that my wife was sick (flu that she had before we got to Mexico). The locals were TOTALLY friendly, and I felt 100% safe in Hildalgo (that was also true when I was there in 2010).
For long, well protected, fun climbs in a great local, EPC is hard to beat. If you go, make sure you go to the "Hamburger As Big As Your Face" house. I can't remember the actual name of this place (? Super Hamburger Casa?), but the woman there makes the best hamburger you will ever eat. Seriously, THE BEST!
Hope you have a great trip.
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jedasmith
Apr 27, 2011, 1:02 AM
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I just got back from Potrero on Sunday night. All was well there (totally safe), and the people and the climbing were as wonderful as they always are! We were told that it was unseasonably hot there last week. Our hottest daytime temp was 102 degrees. We were able to climb just fine. The rock there is so textured and the humidity is low even when hot, so it all works! You essentially have two options-- the first is to chase the shade as others have mentioned. The other option is to get up early-- climb until lunchtime-- then take a break-- shower, eat a big lunch, take a siesta, etc. then head back out for more climbing around 4:00-5:00 for a couple of hours. Obviously cooler temps are more pleasant, but it is doable in the heat!
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squierbypetzl
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Apr 27, 2011, 7:38 AM
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Climbing provides a significant part of the towns income, so most locals will at least be respectfully tolerant, if not downright friendly. Hidalgo is a pretty safe town, but even the best of cities have an occasional incident. Just practice good judgement like you would when travelling in any other place you're unfamiliar with.
Do not go in the summer if you can go in winter or spring. The air is dry and the sun is brutal. Plus you'll miss out on meeting a lot of climbers. A lot of fiestas too.
I love Potrero. Take a trip to the market one day, you might find something that suits you. 
ps: the canyon is a couple clicks away from the town itself, and most of the stores nearby close at night, so you'll have to grab your ipod or a couple buddies and go on a beer run into town. In the 8 or 9 times I've been there we've never had a problem walking along that country road even after midnight. 
(This post was edited by squierbypetzl on Apr 27, 2011, 7:40 AM)
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sungam
Apr 27, 2011, 10:27 AM
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This may be a world record for the number of posts to a thread with "El Portrero Chico" in the name without Ed posting to it.
And now I'm part of it! woooo!
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Nold
Apr 27, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Because of school for some of my friends, the end of summer is possibly our only option. Like I said though, we're all from middle georgia and used to hot humid summers.
Cost wise I'm figuring plane tickets, transportation to and from the airport, food and camping. With our trip late in summer, we'll all have plenty of time to save up for the trip.
I thank you all for the information, you've been a great help!
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rtwilli4
Apr 27, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Nold wrote: Because of school for some of my friends, the end of summer is possibly our only option. Like I said though, we're all from middle georgia and used to hot humid summers. Cost wise I'm figuring plane tickets, transportation to and from the airport, food and camping. With our trip late in summer, we'll all have plenty of time to save up for the trip. I thank you all for the information, you've been a great help!
I'm gonna echo the "don't go in summer" advice.
Look, I'm from N. Carolina and spent every summer working outside, bush-whacking, climbing, etc. Then I moved to Thailand for three years and climbed in 90* weather every day. I have always, ALWAYS been OK doing ANYTHING in hot weather.
But climbing long routes in the sun in Mexico in August is NOT the same thing and climbing on boulders in the forest in the southeastern US. Sure there are shady routes and cloudy days but if you really want to get the most out of your trip, go to a summer destination, not a winter one. You're going to miss out on A LOT of good routes there because they will be baking in the sun all day long.
If there is a group of you, it would be just as cheap to drive to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, etc. Save the Potrero for a long Christmas holiday.
You'll thank us later.
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camhead
Apr 27, 2011, 11:40 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: Nold wrote: Because of school for some of my friends, the end of summer is possibly our only option. Like I said though, we're all from middle georgia and used to hot humid summers. Cost wise I'm figuring plane tickets, transportation to and from the airport, food and camping. With our trip late in summer, we'll all have plenty of time to save up for the trip. I thank you all for the information, you've been a great help! I'm gonna echo the "don't go in summer" advice. Look, I'm from N. Carolina and spent every summer working outside, bush-whacking, climbing, etc. Then I moved to Thailand for three years and climbed in 90* weather every day. I have always, ALWAYS been OK doing ANYTHING in hot weather. But climbing long routes in the sun in Mexico in August is NOT the same thing and climbing on boulders in the forest in the southeastern US. Sure there are shady routes and cloudy days but if you really want to get the most out of your trip, go to a summer destination, not a winter one. You're going to miss out on A LOT of good routes there because they will be baking in the sun all day long. If there is a group of you, it would be just as cheap to drive to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, etc. Save the Potrero for a long Christmas holiday. You'll thank us later.
Agree.
I'll just add that a lot of the classic multipitches (Snotgirls, Estrellita, Space Boys, Yankee Clipper, Timewave Zero, the whole Outrage Wall) get sun for part or most of the day. I would not do any of the aforementioned routes in August. El Toro would be your best bet for summer, but depending on your level, most of its routes are a bit more difficult.
Go in the winter.
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Nold
Apr 27, 2011, 11:41 AM
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In reply to: I'm gonna echo the "don't go in summer" advice. Look, I'm from N. Carolina and spent every summer working outside, bush-whacking, climbing, etc. Then I moved to Thailand for three years and climbed in 90* weather every day. I have always, ALWAYS been OK doing ANYTHING in hot weather. But climbing long routes in the sun in Mexico in August is NOT the same thing and climbing on boulders in the forest in the southeastern US. Sure there are shady routes and cloudy days but if you really want to get the most out of your trip, go to a summer destination, not a winter one. You're going to miss out on A LOT of good routes there because they will be baking in the sun all day long. If there is a group of you, it would be just as cheap to drive to Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, etc. Save the Potrero for a long Christmas holiday. You'll thank us later.
Ok Ok, I hate to change the subject of the thread, but if not EPC we'll need another cheap summer sport location. We can fly anywhere, or drive.
(This post was edited by Nold on Apr 27, 2011, 11:41 AM)
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rtwilli4
Apr 27, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Again, I'll say Colorado and Wyoming for summer. There is loads of all types of climbing there, including sport (probably some multi-pitch). I've heard about multi-pitch bolted stuff in Montana and I know that there is also some in Utah.
Tuolomne Meadows in CA has long bolted routes.
I've heard Canada has a lot of multi-pitch sport. Near Banff maybe?
Search this site and MountainProject.com. Loads of threads lately about summer sport climbing. I'd tell you to PM USNavy but climbing with him might get you killed.
Keep in mind that most multi-pitch "sport" routes in the US are probably not going to feel a whole lot like the sport climbing you are used to. You'll enjoy them, but don't think of it as just stacking a few sport pitches together. It's a little more serious than than.
In the US, the best long climbs are usually naturally protected.
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Nold
Apr 27, 2011, 11:53 AM
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excellent! Canada sounds fun, I'll take a look at what it has to offer!
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 27, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Nold wrote: excellent! Canada sounds fun, I'll take a look at what it has to offer!
Are you only looking for sport? August is a great time to go to Squamish. If you are into trad as well, I would say definitely go there, but the Sport is great too. There is not really any multipitch sport, though.
Josh
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Nold
Apr 27, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Multipitch sport would be cool, but normal sport is fine. None of us know how to trad so its out of the question. I'm between squamish or BC right now
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 27, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Nold wrote: Multipitch sport would be cool, but normal sport is fine. None of us know how to trad so its out of the question. I'm between squamish or BC right now
Squamish is in BC. Do mean Banff? Also, Skaha is supposed to be good, and I believe it's mostly sport. What grades are you looking for? The Petrifying Wall in Murrin Park (Squamish) is Awesome, but the "warmup" route is 11a. But, on your way into the park, there is a smaller wall that has some easier stuff. There is a really good 10a (I think it's called Zoe) there.
Slightly north of Squamish is Cheakamus Canyon which has a variety of grades all the way up to 5.14.
osh
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