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Tjin
Apr 27, 2011, 8:02 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
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I'm trying to shave the maximum amount of weight of mine gear, but now i'm stuck with mine HMS carabiners. I'm looking for the lightest HMS carabiner, which will except rappelling with a 10.5mm rope using a HMS knot. Both sides of the rope that is, i want mine rope back at the bottom.
Purpose of the carabiner, is having a backup when dropping mine belay device and when i have to attach large amount of gear to a single point.
Most mini / lightweight HMS carabiners are simply not big enough for that. Any idea's anybody?
I was looking at the BD vapor lock, Petzl ATTACHE 3D, Mammut Bionic Mytholito, DMM SENTINEL HMS, but all of them seams to be too small...
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swaghole
Apr 27, 2011, 9:47 PM
Post #2 of 7
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
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Tjin wrote: I'm trying to shave the maximum amount of weight of mine gear, but now i'm stuck with mine HMS carabiners. I'm looking for the lightest HMS carabiner, which will except rappelling with a 10.5mm rope using a HMS knot. Both sides of the rope that is, i want mine rope back at the bottom. Purpose of the carabiner, is having a backup when dropping mine belay device and when i have to attach large amount of gear to a single point. Most mini / lightweight HMS carabiners are simply not big enough for that. Any idea's anybody? I was looking at the BD vapor lock, Petzl ATTACHE 3D, Mammut Bionic Mytholito, DMM SENTINEL HMS, but all of them seams to be too small...
The BD Rocklock or Petzl William are big enough to handle a munter with 2 ropes.
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psprings
Apr 28, 2011, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Another thing to remmeber is that if you are using an HMS, you want as close to round barstock as possible. The 3D/I beam HMS biners suck for Munter hitches, so if you are planning on using the Munter, get a fully rounded bar-stock biner.
The best one to me is the Rock Exotica Pirate. 80g, full size, rounded barstock, CE and UIAA approved, and made in the USA. $13.00.
(This post was edited by psprings on Apr 28, 2011, 12:10 AM)
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qwert
Apr 28, 2011, 8:28 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Wild country synergy lite is what i use.
Big enough for my uses.
Hot forged but round stock where it counts.
78g
Oh, and just to reiterate, that i understood you right:
You want to have a biner that enables you to rappel with a munter, should you drop your rappel device, right?
You do not have the stupid idea to leave your rappel device behind for wheight reasons.
qwert
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rightarmbad
Apr 28, 2011, 10:19 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Mar 22, 2005
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I have half a dozen BD Vapour locks for my trad rack.
No problems with a munter.
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psprings
Apr 28, 2011, 1:56 PM
Post #6 of 7
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rightarmbad wrote: I have half a dozen BD Vapour locks for my trad rack. No problems with a munter.
I've got a couple too. They "work", but comparing the feeding to a biner that doesnt have that lip from the I-beam and you'll see about how much more energy is required to feed the rope.
For emergency rapping, yeah, probably doesnt matter.
However, since I dont use an ATC guide/plaquette/autoblocking belay device, Munters are awesome for belaying up a second. And if you are using it for belaying up a second, you definately notice any efficiency that isnt being captured when you are pulling rope through.
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Tjin
Apr 28, 2011, 9:08 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Jul 6, 2010
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qwert wrote: Oh, and just to reiterate, that i understood you right: You want to have a biner that enables you to rappel with a munter, should you drop your rappel device, right? You do not have the stupid idea to leave your rappel device behind for wheight reasons. qwert
That is correct.
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