|
Paxton3
Apr 27, 2011, 2:15 PM
Post #26 of 35
(4632 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2011
Posts: 1
|
Hey, I would definitely take the season & temps into consideration. When I was young and dumb and had just got a car (16) we went out West on a climbing road trip in the middle of summer to Hueco, JTree, and Sedona. Needless to say it sucked hard core - it was too hot to even touch the rock in AZ and all I remember from J-Tree was the stench of the pit toilets!
August - go North: Wyoming (Wild Iris) or Vancouver (Squamish)
January: Mexico (Potreo Chico)
April - June: Salt Lake (American Fork)
I definitely take the predicted weather into way more consideration than what is the super best climbing according to someone else... I find I only do about 10-20 routes when on a vacation anyway and then move on to another crag. Very seldom do I ever just hate an area, the best routes are the ones you climb in the sun without cold hands or sweating or being rained upon.
|
|
|
|
|
A-Bowl
Apr 27, 2011, 4:40 PM
Post #27 of 35
(4607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 76
|
A lot of good places have been suggested but I think if you're looking for stellar sport climbing at the right temperature in the summer in a unique alpine setting then check out Pine Creek canyon in Bishop ca. Most other areas around there are too hot and the sport climbing around tahoe area isn't as good. This also sets you up to do some sport climbing up in tuolumne which is amazing knob pulling. Pine creek has one of my favorite 3 pitch 11c climbs... each pitch 11c and amazing as well as many wild roofs and interesting other 11s... slab and steep. it is very featured granite. Enjoy!
|
|
|
|
|
eddie_munster
Apr 28, 2011, 4:48 PM
Post #28 of 35
(4576 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
|
rtwilli4 wrote: The east has the best sport climbing besides a few select areas out west. If you were climbing 5.13 I might say go to Rifle or Smith but at you're grade you should just go spend a month at the Red. THEN... AFTER THE RED... go spend the rest of your time at the New. Seriously... you're crazy to go out west. You couldn't have possibly climbed all of the 5.11's w/in your weekend territory.
Actually, although the red is great for 5.12 and up, Owens River Gorge is a way better crag for 5.10 and 5.11. I'd say it is the biggest and best sport crag in the U.S. for 5.9 through 5.11. If you're in Bishop, you might also check out Pine Creek, which has a lot of 5.11.
(This post was edited by eddie_munster on Apr 28, 2011, 4:52 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
eddie_munster
Apr 28, 2011, 5:22 PM
Post #29 of 35
(4568 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
|
jt512 wrote: jape wrote: Owens Gorge + Clark Canyon (CA) Really? I find that Owens is mediocre and that Clark outright sucks. Jay
Really? I noticed you frequent New Jack City. Like that place shines over Clark? As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country. Did your ego get hurt? I noticed you haven't done anything from Owens. Grades are stiff there compared to New Jack or places like the Red.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Apr 28, 2011, 5:38 PM
Post #30 of 35
(4563 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
eddie_munster wrote: jt512 wrote: jape wrote: Owens Gorge + Clark Canyon (CA) Really? I find that Owens is mediocre and that Clark outright sucks. Jay Really? I noticed you frequent New Jack City. Like that place shines over Clark?
Yeah, by like a factor of 100.
In reply to: As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country.
If by "the country" you mean rural central California, then, maybe.
In reply to: Did your ego get hurt? I noticed you haven't done anything from Owens. Grades are stiff there compared to New Jack . . .
I've never noticed that.
Jay
Edit: Correct order of magnitude.
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 28, 2011, 6:09 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Diphthong
Apr 28, 2011, 6:06 PM
Post #31 of 35
(4552 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
|
eddie_munster wrote: As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country.
You've just invalidated any credibility you may have had of knowing what the hell you're talking about.
|
|
|
|
|
jbone
Apr 28, 2011, 7:32 PM
Post #32 of 35
(4538 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 463
|
olderic wrote: Here you go: 1. She's the Bosch 2. Barbecue the Pope 3. Expressway 4. Steve's (Hunchback) Arete 5. Fear and Loathing - the grade is a bit higher but no move is harder then easy 11. I'm not telling you where they are but any experienced sport climber will know. Part of the fun - for you - should be learning about different areas.
I'll second this list, even though 2 of the 5 I haven't been to.
|
|
|
|
|
lithiummetalman
Apr 28, 2011, 7:54 PM
Post #33 of 35
(4520 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286
|
Tahoe
(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Apr 28, 2011, 7:55 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Apr 29, 2011, 1:40 AM
Post #34 of 35
(4489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
If you're accustomed to the Red and the New, then you're going to be very underwhelmed with the sport climbing in Red Rocks. Don't get me wrong: I LOVE Red Rocks, but the sport climbing there is 2nd tier at best. While the long routes back in the canyons are world class, the sport climbing is fairly mediocre.
|
|
|
|
|
eddie_munster
Apr 29, 2011, 3:37 AM
Post #35 of 35
(4470 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
|
Diphthong wrote: eddie_munster wrote: As for Owens, it's one of the best crags in the country. You've just invalidated any credibility you may have had of knowing what the hell you're talking about.
two people voted on Expressway as a top 5.11. That's not even the best 5.11 at Owens, it's just well known. There's hundreds and hundreds of 5.11's there.
(This post was edited by eddie_munster on Apr 29, 2011, 3:40 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
