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Pendulums/Aid Climbing
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kaneftbc


Apr 29, 2011, 7:43 AM
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Pendulums/Aid Climbing
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I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?


altelis


Apr 29, 2011, 7:47 AM
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Re: [kaneftbc] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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kaneftbc wrote:
I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?


Probably makes more sense to have this in Big Wall/Aid forum...

SIMPLEST way? Unclip rope from piece. Done.


csproul


Apr 29, 2011, 7:47 AM
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Re: [kaneftbc] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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http://www.supertopo.com/...-Contents/a139n.html


charlie.elverson


Apr 29, 2011, 8:10 AM
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Re: [kaneftbc] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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This is a great, detailed video of lowering out.http://www.vimeo.com/4388859?ab


USnavy


Apr 29, 2011, 2:17 PM
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rocknice2


May 2, 2011, 7:01 PM
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Re: [kaneftbc] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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kaneftbc wrote:
I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?

Leave a bail biner at the fulcrum. You can do it without leaving a biner but you need to feed through a loop of rope and depending how big the swing is, it can be a real PITA.

If you have 2 ropes or a tag line the second can be pulled to the leader. No need to swing


charlie.elverson


May 2, 2011, 8:24 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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That's pretty much what Tobin Sorenson did on Mt. Watkins.


USnavy


May 2, 2011, 8:51 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] Pendulums/Aid Climbing [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
kaneftbc wrote:
I am looking for suggestions about leading and following pendulums when aid climbing. What's the simplest way to do it?

Leave a bail biner at the fulcrum. You can do it without leaving a biner but you need to feed through a loop of rope and depending how big the swing is, it can be a real PITA.

If you have 2 ropes or a tag line the second can be pulled to the leader. No need to swing

Hua? You (the leader) just clip a quickdraw to the fixed piece, clip the rope to it and lower down and swing over. The second than feeds the rope through the piece and lowers out. There will pretty much always be a fixed sling on the piece (on the trade routes anyway) for the second to lower out off of, no leaver biner needed. If you dont have enough rope, you thread the rope through the piece and rappel yourself out, in either case it shouldent take more than 30 seconds to set up.


(This post was edited by USnavy on May 2, 2011, 8:59 PM)


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