|
|
|
|
donniecs
May 9, 2011, 12:50 PM
Post #1 of 9
(5758 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 22, 2010
Posts: 3
|
I started another thread titled "beginner gear recommendations" and in that thread I was originally leaning towards double plastic boots. It seems that everybody recommended staying away from plastic boots and going with leather which after further research does make sense for me. With boots being the biggest purchase starting out (although axes can be close depending on what you get) I thought that I'd seek some advice for boots since there are a lot of models out there.
I envision the boots getting used mostly for ice climbing in the WI1-3/4 range (if I can ever get to that level) on ice in within several hours of Maryland (VA, PA, and further north when I can line up trips). I'd also like to get up to the Presidentials a couple weekends a year for some mountaineering (pending available partners that can make the trip). So basically what I'm asking is a versatile boot that would be good for the above mentioned scenario. I was originally looking at the Scarpa Omegas so I'd be looking in the $400 price range.
Thanks for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
kaizen
May 9, 2011, 2:26 PM
Post #2 of 9
(5744 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2009
Posts: 154
|
La Sportiva Nepal Evo. Great boot, often found on 25% discount this time of year, and should provide enough warmth for most of your needs. Obviously your foot with heavy socks needs to fit well.
For ice tools, check out the bd reactors. Great tool for pure ice in those grade ranges.
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
May 9, 2011, 3:54 PM
Post #3 of 9
(5727 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
If you ever make the trip up to Canada, MEC has the best deal around on new leashless tools.
In reply to: http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442619857&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302691849
For boots, there are some pretty sweet deals on used boots out there (see mountainproject) if you know your size. There are also occasionally some random boots on SAC. I recently picked up a pair of Millet Radikals from them for $15, but you have to be really fast clicking to get those kind of deals. They usually sell out in seconds.
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
May 11, 2011, 9:03 PM
Post #4 of 9
(5683 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
donniecs wrote: I started another thread titled "beginner gear recommendations" and in that thread I was originally leaning towards double plastic boots. It seems that everybody recommended staying away from plastic boots and going with leather which after further research does make sense for me. With boots being the biggest purchase starting out (although axes can be close depending on what you get) I thought that I'd seek some advice for boots since there are a lot of models out there. I envision the boots getting used mostly for ice climbing in the WI1-3/4 range (if I can ever get to that level) on ice in within several hours of Maryland (VA, PA, and further north when I can line up trips). I'd also like to get up to the Presidentials a couple weekends a year for some mountaineering (pending available partners that can make the trip). So basically what I'm asking is a versatile boot that would be good for the above mentioned scenario. I was originally looking at the Scarpa Omegas so I'd be looking in the $400 price range. Thanks for the help!
So, I've noticed you keep making references to "mountaineering in the Presidentials", but its still not really clear what you think this means. There really aren't general mountaineering routes, as people typically understand that to mean, in New England (save, perhaps, Kathadin). There are longer technical ice routes on Mt Washington that require a longish approach, and if you want to summit after, then a LONG day. But its really either technical ice, or snow walking. There really aren't steep snow gullies or even snow fields, knife-edge ridges and 4th-class sections that are climbed.
Either you want to do primarily ice climbing and I would go for a single leather boot, like the Nepal Evo (or other similar boot, whatever brand/model fits your foot best). This would work fine for any single day trip in the Presi's or the Dacks.
Or, you want to do primarily multi-day trips, which in NH/VT/NY would be essentially NON-technical terrain, and I would go with a double boot (plastic or leather).
There are double leather boots that climb very well, but they are PRICEY. Probably not a first/second/third boot. Considering that you are mostly planning on doing technical ice I would go with the single leather. Living in Maine I used first the Koflach Arctic Expe and then the Nepal Evo. The Nepal was the MUCH better boot, including on long days on Mt. Washington. You could probably get away with a 2 day trip in the Nepals if you were willing to put the entire boot in your bag at night. Or, a better option, would be to buy a single leather boot and if you want to use a dbl boot when in the Presi's just rent a pair for the weekend at IME in N. Conway.
|
|
|
|
|
adeptus
Aug 27, 2011, 8:45 AM
Post #5 of 9
(5235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 322
|
|
|
|
|
|
eric_k
Aug 27, 2011, 1:51 PM
Post #6 of 9
(5224 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 190
|
I have a pair of Trango Evo Extreme LT GTX. http://www.sportiva.com/...xtreme-evo-%20lt-gtx
Long title but a great boot. Anyone correct me if I am wrong. But these are like the Nepal but a little lighter and less warm. I have used mine for everything from ice climbing in Alaska to a trip up Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier in winter like conditions (deep wet snow and cold temps). My feet have never really been cold in them and they were comfortable for long days.
If you plan on doing mostly Water Ice, these would be great. If you plan on doing a lot of muliti day alpine stuff, a boot like the Nepal would be a better suit.
|
|
|
|
|
tolman_paul
Sep 1, 2011, 7:57 PM
Post #7 of 9
(5144 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385
|
Check out Sierra Trading post, they almost always have a couple styles of mountaineering boots they are blowing out, and you should be able to find an additional 20% coupon code. I've gotten two pairs of mountaineering boots through them, one pair of Salomans that are pretty much worn out from lots of hiking, and a pair of Scarpas that still aren't broken in. With some searching and a bonus coupon you should be able to find a pair of boots in the $200 range. The Asolo Broad Peaks would be right there if you have an additional 20% off coupon.
While I'd thought a stiff double boot was necessary for ice climbing, I've found it simply isn't so. And the leather mountaineering boots are much friendlier when hiking in them.
Both pairs of boots have been plenty warm down to -10, but belaying in those conditions and dinner plating the ice isn't that fun.
|
|
|
|
|
juho.risku
Sep 19, 2011, 5:41 AM
Post #8 of 9
(5017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2009
Posts: 42
|
I ended up with Scarpa Phantom Guides: http://www.tribevine.com/...arpa/Phantom%20Guide ...my principal use for these boots is waterfall ice, but I'm doing some winter mountaineering as well. So far I've used them also on couple of summer alpine trips and even though they seemed kind of warm for such, they worked surprisingly well there too. They were about 370€ in Chamonix last summer, so they might be a bit expensive for your budget range though.
Another interesting boot that I saw at the Outdoor Show last summer was Mammut Nordwand TL (would certainly consider if I would be purchasing boots now): http://www.tribevine.com/...Mammut/Nordwand%20TL ...in short it seems that a interesting variety of warm light single boots with integrated gaiter are coming up.
|
|
|
|
|
westhegimp
Nov 6, 2011, 11:52 PM
Post #9 of 9
(4773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2006
Posts: 51
|
Not too cold out here in California. So I bought the Lowa Mountain Expert GTXs from REI. $250? I coated them with some nikwax water proofing stuff. They work great! They are slightly insulated so they are warm for what we get into out here in Lee Vining. Coldest day trip was 5 deg F. Not sure if these would be enough for multi-day climbing in this weather but for a day out in the ice they work fine. I don't usually have cold feet though. :) I bought them a full size and a half big, because that's what they had, and I wear a liner sock and an expedition weight sock. They work fine with the Black Diamond Cyborg Pro/step ins.
I like these boots for technical ice. They seem stiff and supportive for the task. They are also flexible enough to allow for some fancy foot work with the pons on. They are fairly warm too. The thing that I did not expect though is how well these things hike! These are the most comfortable boots I own. Nice going up as well as descending. I would rather wear these that my light hikers!
Anybody else have these?
Wes
http://www.rei.com/product/780836/lowa-mountain-expert-gtx-mountaineering-boots-mens,-red/black?preferredSku=7808360080?cm_mmc&mr:trackingCode=EF8BBAA5-0A02-DF11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
