|
|
|
|
USnavy
May 13, 2011, 9:39 AM
Post #1 of 9
(3826 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
We got in a shipment of ovals from Mad Rock and I found some of them have different rating stamps and certifications on them despite they are the exact same model. One set of biners is labeled as being CE and UIAA certified and is stamped with a strength rating of 24 / 8 / 7KN. The other is not stamped with any certifications and is rated for 23 / 7 / 7 kN. Mad Rock lists the biner as holding 23 / 7 / 7 kN on their website, which is what the biner without UIAA and CE labels lists. I can understand some of the biners not being stamped as being UIAA or CE certified, maybe Mad Rock started mass producing them before they were certified, but why the differences in strength ratings? The top picture shows the ratings of the top biner, and the bottom biner shows the ratings of the bottom biner. The UIAA label is on the left and its missing from the top biner.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 13, 2011, 9:43 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
May 13, 2011, 10:53 AM
Post #2 of 9
(3809 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
USnavy wrote: The other is not stamped with any certifications and is rated for 23 / 7 / 7 kN. Mad Rock lists the biner as holding 23 / 7 / 7 kN on their website, which is what the biner without UIAA and CE labels lists. It doesn't answer the question of when or why Mad Rock changed the ratings, but this doc does explain why the 23/ 7 / 7 kN 'biner doesn't have a UIAA label: http://www.theuiaa.org/..._connectors_2009.pdf
In reply to: 2.2.1. Major axis gate-open strength of type K connectors When tested with the gate opens in accordance with the test method in EN 12275:1998 and 2.2.3. below, type K connectors shall withstand a minimum load of 8 kN. edit for clicky Edit x2: after some snooping around Google, the CE 2008 would seem to indicate that the carabiner was manufactured/certified in Taiwan.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on May 13, 2011, 11:07 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
May 13, 2011, 11:26 AM
Post #3 of 9
(3790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
sbaclimber wrote: USnavy wrote: The other is not stamped with any certifications and is rated for 23 / 7 / 7 kN. Mad Rock lists the biner as holding 23 / 7 / 7 kN on their website, which is what the biner without UIAA and CE labels lists. It doesn't answer the question of when or why Mad Rock changed the ratings, but this doc does explain why the 23/ 7 / 7 kN 'biner doesn't have a UIAA label: http://www.theuiaa.org/..._connectors_2009.pdf In reply to: 2.2.1. Major axis gate-open strength of type K connectors When tested with the gate opens in accordance with the test method in EN 12275:1998 and 2.2.3. below, type K connectors shall withstand a minimum load of 8 kN. edit for clicky Edit x2: after some snooping around Google, the CE 2008 would seem to indicate that the carabiner was manufactured/certified in Taiwan. Thats for class K carabiners. Class K carabiners are used on via ferrata lanyards. Oval biners are class X biners, and they have lower strength requirements. If you go back to the UIAA's website and click the pictorial icon, than press your right arrow key, you can see the strength requirements for the different types of biners.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
May 13, 2011, 11:52 AM
Post #4 of 9
(3784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
USnavy wrote: sbaclimber wrote: USnavy wrote: The other is not stamped with any certifications and is rated for 23 / 7 / 7 kN. Mad Rock lists the biner as holding 23 / 7 / 7 kN on their website, which is what the biner without UIAA and CE labels lists. It doesn't answer the question of when or why Mad Rock changed the ratings, but this doc does explain why the 23/ 7 / 7 kN 'biner doesn't have a UIAA label: http://www.theuiaa.org/..._connectors_2009.pdf In reply to: 2.2.1. Major axis gate-open strength of type K connectors When tested with the gate opens in accordance with the test method in EN 12275:1998 and 2.2.3. below, type K connectors shall withstand a minimum load of 8 kN. edit for clicky Edit x2: after some snooping around Google, the CE 2008 would seem to indicate that the carabiner was manufactured/certified in Taiwan. Thats for class K carabiners. Class K carabiners are used on via ferrata lanyards. Oval biners are class X biners, and they have lower strength requirements. If you go back to the UIAA's website and click the pictorial icon, than press your right arrow key, you can see the strength requirements for the different types of biners. D'oh! Good catch, my bad.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
May 13, 2011, 1:06 PM
Post #5 of 9
(3771 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Not the first time I've seen or heard about two biners of the same model having different strength ratings. Can only guess why the stamp changed though.
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
May 13, 2011, 5:57 PM
Post #6 of 9
(3726 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Really? Pretty funny from an expectations perspective...
|
|
|
|
|
justanotherclimber
May 14, 2011, 7:08 PM
Post #7 of 9
(3660 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2005
Posts: 60
|
does it ever occur to you to actually contact the manufacturer first, or do you prefer to ask these questions before giving the people who actually make the product a chance to answer your questions?
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
May 14, 2011, 9:23 PM
Post #8 of 9
(3622 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
justanotherclimber wrote: does it ever occur to you to actually contact the manufacturer first, or do you prefer to ask these questions before giving the people who actually make the product a chance to answer your questions? Funnier still...
|
|
|
|
|
Khoi
May 14, 2011, 9:27 PM
Post #9 of 9
(3618 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
|
justanotherclimber wrote: does it ever occur to you to actually contact the manufacturer first, or do you prefer to ask these questions before giving the people who actually make the product a chance to answer your questions? I assume this was directed to USNavy.
|
|
|
|
|
|