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wildtrail


Jan 1, 2003, 11:45 AM
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Aid
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I've been climbing for a long time and I'm thinking about getting into aid climbing. Well, short aid climbs as I'm not a fan of extreme height. I have just a few questions.

What is the difference between "C" and "A"?

What is A1, A2, A3, A4, A5? What differentiates 1, 2, 3, etc?

Steve


beyond_gravity


Jan 1, 2003, 12:03 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=4156&forum=19&8

You're probably gonna be asked to delete this post


wallrat


Jan 1, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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  Steve, the "A" scale is sort of a cross between the "5th class" scale we use for free routes, and the British "E" scale involving seriousness. The "C" prefix only denotes that the pitch goes clean, that is without hammering, pins etc. The best place to get a good idea of what A1 and A5 involve is either Tuans, or FISH'es site. But briefly, A0 is hanging on a piece, A5 is so much mank that if you fall, you'll rip the whole pitch and land on a jagged pile of rocks that'll make Sushimi out of you. Forget the idea of staying low on aid, Steve. Higher is safer...more room to fall. G.W.

[ This Message was edited by: wallrat on 2003-01-01 12:37 ]


Partner tim


Jan 1, 2003, 12:57 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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See here:

Aid Ratings Explained

should probably add this to the FAQ auto-answers list...



copperhead


Jan 1, 2003, 3:51 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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This is a very good question. Please leave it here. wildtrail, can you edit your title to include ratings?

I don't think anyone really knows what the rating system means (including myself). Should it be modified?


bigwalling


Jan 1, 2003, 4:05 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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I think we should add an R or an X for pitches with bad falls. Say you can fall 40 feet and the pitch is rated A2. That means you have about 20 feet of body weight, which is A1(nw) in my opinion. Yet 40 feet below you is the ground, which has some flakes that will stab though your body should you fall. Well I would call that pitch A2 R/X.

No R or X= fairly clean fall.
R= Some broken bones but you likely won't die
R/X= You have a good chance at dieing.
X= If you beileve in God you better be right with him if you fall!

So you might die on and A1+ new wave pitch if it has the R/X thing.



copperhead


Jan 1, 2003, 4:17 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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copperhead


Jan 1, 2003, 4:32 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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Jake has just outlined why the traditional system doesn't really work. The system doesn't differentiate between technically easy climbing with bad fall potential (ground/ledge/flake), and technically difficult climbing with a clean fall. The two may be rated the same, yet they are very different. What is bodyweight? Un-rated? Sandbagging?

Opinions?


smithclimber


Jan 1, 2003, 4:35 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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I think that's a bit of a silly notion.

A4 and A5 are ALREADY R/X rated!

A1 R/X??? Part of what makes a route A1 is that the fall is not going to be longer than about 20'. A1 = good gear placements Hard to smack into the talus when nearly every piece is bomber.


bigwalling


Jan 1, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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Every pitch I've led is A1. Even if they were rated A3 in the guidebook. Ratings suck! It is just a way to make yourself look like a badass. Which we all want to be(well Bryan already is).


timpanogos


Jan 1, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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I personally love PTPP’s explanation of the CRS method. Look for the NBD, NTB and PDH and how the DFU modifier can be added to any of these ratings.

Chad

[ This Message was edited by: timpanogos on 2003-01-01 22:01 ]


brutusofwyde


Jan 1, 2003, 11:10 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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A=take a hammer
C=hammerless

C4F means that your friends climbed it the week before and fixed any placements where a hammer would have been needed, then you bagged the first clean ascent.

But A0 means you freed it, without a hammer, french style.

A1 = you didn't fall

A5x = you did fall, once, and are currently listed among the names of world class climbers in the Necrology section of the AAJ.

Hope this explains it! Of course, if you're not confused yet, let me know and I can explain further.

Brutus


bigwalling


Jan 3, 2003, 6:12 PM
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Aid [In reply to]
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Here is what I think is the best. Don't rate climbs. This is very simple system. Climbs get a reputation even if they are unrepeated. IF the F.A. guy was a bad ass aid climber who was known for not placeing many bolts, yu wouldn't go up there if you weren't prepared for likely bad anchors.

Don't be a jerk and add holes/bolts to existing climbs!


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