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tylert222


Mar 8, 2011, 5:13 PM
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Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE!
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Im a poor climber so my rack consist of just hexes,nuts, and a couple tri-cams. Anyone else just use the above?
I figured thats all they used before cams so i can do without them. I never trad climb over 40 ft usually.


uni_jim


Mar 8, 2011, 5:54 PM
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Re: [tylert222] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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tylert222 wrote:
Im a poor climber so my rack consist of just hexes,nuts, and a couple tri-cams. Anyone else just use the above?
I figured thats all they used before cams so i can do without them. I never trad climb over 40 ft usually.


It can be fun to go all passive, but I like my cams too. Why are you only climbing such short pitches?


tylert222


Mar 8, 2011, 7:52 PM
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Re: [uni_jim] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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haha, cause thats the highest crack around here where i live, and i get shaky with heights, but i love climbing.


bagels


Mar 8, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Don't worry, that's all the gear I've had to use for the past couple years. It's gonna make you into a fantastic trad guru.


healyje


Mar 9, 2011, 2:43 AM
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Re: [tylert222] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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http://www.horyinfo.cz/...ku=zorka-prachtelova


(This post was edited by healyje on Mar 9, 2011, 2:45 AM)


cush


Mar 9, 2011, 6:38 AM
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Re: [tylert222] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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most people only use passive gear when they want to give themselves more of a challenge. people use cams on harder stuff. keep on climbing as you've been doing though. you get to the point that you're climbing tough stuff with just nuts, hexes, and tricams and you're going to feel like a borderline superhero when you buy a rack of cams and start placing those.

climbing on just passive gear is a great way to start off on the road to becoming a badass trad climber. keep it up.


rangerrob


Mar 9, 2011, 8:12 AM
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Agree with last poster, Henry Barber would agree as well. In case you don't know who he is......he's one of the original badasses, and he still doesn't use cams.


sanarteaga


Mar 9, 2011, 8:15 AM
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Re: [tylert222] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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I kinda lived the same thing. Started with a stoppers set, then bought hexes up to no 12 (all this for less than 150usd). Back then I would climb multipiches 5.6 to 5.8.

However as I started to climb harder I realized cams were much needed. Bough a cams set, started to climb 5.9s. Then bought a 2nd cams set... started to climb 5.10s

Starting with passive pro is a great way to learn the ropes, get some mileage and save some bucks... at some point you will feel the need for cams... but you really dont need em to begin with.


mrtristan


Mar 9, 2011, 9:57 AM
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bagels wrote:
Don't worry, that's all the gear I've had to use for the past couple years. It's gonna make you into a fantastic trad guru.

Read: Bitter old trad climber


jeepnphreak


Mar 9, 2011, 2:05 PM
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Do you want to augment that rack for cheap.

Learn to tie monkey fists and water knots double and triple fisherman's knots in to different size webbing and cord for variable sized stoppers knots.




robx


Mar 30, 2011, 3:19 PM
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Re: [tylert222] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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tylert222 wrote:
Im a poor climber so my rack consist of just hexes,nuts, and a couple tri-cams. Anyone else just use the above?
I figured thats all they used before cams so i can do without them. I never trad climb over 40 ft usually.

same situation.


jacques


Apr 1, 2011, 8:16 AM
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tylert222 wrote:
Im a poor climber so my rack consist of just hexes,nuts, and a couple tri-cams. Anyone else just use the above?

I climbed 5.10, like fastest guns at poko and initmidation at cathedral just with passive chuck. When I have the choice, I use big hexes, stopper, tricam and cam. Biggest is the surface of contact between the rock and the cam, better is the protection. On a tricam, the point are very sharp and can broke the rock. For example, take a speologist hammer and a normal hammer. The point end of the speologist hammer will cut the rock and the one square inches of the normal hammer will not. Cam are like two tricam back to back. Each side of the cam are like speologist hammer. Conclusion: it is better to begin to climb with passive stopper. aid climbing is a good way to think how to place very good stopper.


michael1245


Apr 1, 2011, 8:26 AM
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tylert222 wrote:
haha, cause thats the highest crack around here where i live, and i get shaky with heights, but i love climbing.

cheers bro! I swear, I get dizzy bouldering sometimes.


darkgift06


Apr 1, 2011, 8:45 AM
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I started the same way... I'm now buying cams 2 at a time to add to my rack.

during the start of my trad climbing I had friends who would let me lead with there rack from time to time & thats how I got used to cams.


potreroed


Apr 21, 2011, 9:00 PM
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I climbed for many, many years with hexes and stoppers and tricams before I could afford spring-loaded camming devices. Don't worry, keep the faith, and one day your ship will come in.


gunkiemike


May 7, 2011, 5:18 PM
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Climbing with only hexes and nuts will probably keep you climbing VERY conservatively (remember the "Leader must not fall" era? That's cuz they didn't have any better gear!). But it will also develop your ability to read the rock that will make you better with cams, when you get them.

BUT...having Tricams! Now you're styling. If you get real good with them, you can do without cams for a long time.


donald949


May 13, 2011, 1:09 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:
Climbing with only hexes and nuts will probably keep you climbing VERY conservatively (remember the "Leader must not fall" era? That's cuz they didn't have any better gear!). But it will also develop your ability to read the rock that will make you better with cams, when you get them.

BUT...having Tricams! Now you're styling. If you get real good with them, you can do without cams for a long time.
Actually, it was cause the ropes were such junk. But it was alpine climbing, and the ropes were manila. They would get wet from the snow/ice, and rot out.

To the OP, hexes and nuts is how I started. poor college student etc. After dropping 100 for a rope, another 100 for the shoes. Didn't have much left. Could get a fist full of stoppers for the price of a freind. If you could find them.

Climb on, Don


jorgegonzalez


May 13, 2011, 4:02 PM
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BITD all I had was my nuts and hexes, and as I always say, I still prefer them. "The bigger the nuts, the harder I climb."


gunkiemike


May 13, 2011, 6:05 PM
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I know for a fact that the Leader Must Not Fall (LMNF) ideal persisted long after manila ropes went away. My college buds and I subscribed to the LMNF rule even as we climbed on shiny new Mammut and Chouinard kernmantle ropes. Well, we had Goldlines too, but they sucked in a big way; actually they sucked every way possible short of rotting like manila. Speaking of which, manila was replaced by nylon a LONG time ago. I doubt there's anyone on this forum who climbed in pre-nylon days. Anyway, we didn't push ourselves on lead because the gear sucked. We fell - rarely - but not because we felt it was OK to do so. Others were pushing hard above the same gear at the time (standards were moving quickly into 5.doubledigits), but alas, we were mere mortals.


ceebo


May 14, 2011, 8:01 AM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Hexes and nuts. CLICK THIS OR ELSE! [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
Do you want to augment that rack for cheap.

Learn to tie monkey fists and water knots double and triple fisherman's knots in to different size webbing and cord for variable sized stoppers knots.

[image]http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/bilder/354.jpg[/image]

I would feel safer to free solo than fall on that ;p.


healyje


May 14, 2011, 12:27 PM
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gunkiemike wrote:
Climbing with only hexes and nuts will probably keep you climbing VERY conservatively (remember the "Leader must not fall" era? That's cuz they didn't have any better gear!).

I have to disagree with this. We always viewed the "leader must not fall" thing as more a matter of style / philosophy and in the end as a statement of competency in ones nutcraft - every one we knew were falling like so much rain. We never really understood the point of it outside of know when the "leader must not fall" and there are those times, but as an ideal or an "era"? I always thought it was ridiculous, had nothing to do with the quality of passive protection per se, and it was certainly never an 'era' - more like a bad and limiting meme.


cfnubbler


May 14, 2011, 2:07 PM
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cush wrote:
most people only use passive gear when they want to give themselves more of a challenge. people use cams on harder stuff. keep on climbing as you've been doing though. you get to the point that you're climbing tough stuff with just nuts, hexes, and tricams and you're going to feel like a borderline superhero when you buy a rack of cams and start placing those.

climbing on just passive gear is a great way to start off on the road to becoming a badass trad climber. keep it up.

I can't decide if this is a troll, or just plain silly.


scrapedape


May 16, 2011, 6:55 AM
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healyje wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
Climbing with only hexes and nuts will probably keep you climbing VERY conservatively (remember the "Leader must not fall" era? That's cuz they didn't have any better gear!).

I have to disagree with this. We always viewed the "leader must not fall" thing as more a matter of style / philosophy and in the end as a statement of competency in ones nutcraft - every one we knew were falling like so much rain. We never really understood the point of it outside of know when the "leader must not fall" and there are those times, but as an ideal or an "era"? I always thought it was ridiculous, had nothing to do with the quality of passive protection per se, and it was certainly never an 'era' - more like a bad and limiting meme.

How about before your time, Joe? Before the nuts & hexes era?


donald949


May 16, 2011, 8:33 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
I know for a fact that the Leader Must Not Fall (LMNF) ideal persisted long after manila ropes went away. My college buds and I subscribed to the LMNF rule even as we climbed on shiny new Mammut and Chouinard kernmantle ropes. Well, we had Goldlines too, but they sucked in a big way; actually they sucked every way possible short of rotting like manila. Speaking of which, manila was replaced by nylon a LONG time ago. I doubt there's anyone on this forum who climbed in pre-nylon days. Anyway, we didn't push ourselves on lead because the gear sucked. We fell - rarely - but not because we felt it was OK to do so. Others were pushing hard above the same gear at the time (standards were moving quickly into 5.doubledigits), but alas, we were mere mortals.
True it did persist well past the manila rope. And you could be right about the early soft pitons being not good to leader fall on either. Now that I think about them too.
But I think the concept of the leader must not fall lived past its day. Rules are born of hard experiences, and only change slowly, as they are shown to be outmoded. Although there have been times I have been way above my last pro, and been in the no fall zone.
On the subject of gold line, never climbed on one, although we new people that had them. They never used them either, the just left them in the corner. So they really must have been bad. But you are the first person I've heard that also had a Chouinard rope. I still have mine, but its long since retired.


healyje


May 16, 2011, 10:45 PM
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scrapedape wrote:
healyje wrote:
gunkiemike wrote:
Climbing with only hexes and nuts will probably keep you climbing VERY conservatively (remember the "Leader must not fall" era? That's cuz they didn't have any better gear!).

I have to disagree with this. We always viewed the "leader must not fall" thing as more a matter of style / philosophy and in the end as a statement of competency in ones nutcraft - every one we knew were falling like so much rain. We never really understood the point of it outside of know when the "leader must not fall" and there are those times, but as an ideal or an "era"? I always thought it was ridiculous, had nothing to do with the quality of passive protection per se, and it was certainly never an 'era' - more like a bad and limiting meme.

How about before your time, Joe? Before the nuts & hexes era?

From my perspective it was an idealized relic that [unfortunately] survived the pre-carabiner era of manila ropes and threaded ring pins.

I did start on goldline, a set of stoppers and hexes, non-locking biners, and hip belaying. I had total confidence in the stoppers and hexs I placed - hell, I was confident of the stacked stoppers and hexs I placed. I never felt anything but confident about my pro unless I was deliberately placing marginal pro - no different than I do today. In fact, I still can't imagine placing a cam where you can get a nut - it makes no sense whatsoever to me.

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