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Self rescue using only the climbing rope?
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Dawirdo


May 16, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Self rescue using only the climbing rope?
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This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4EJ2KHg1FU) shows how to tie a prusic without using a loop so you don't have to pass the rope back through itself (kinda hard to explain watch the vid and hopefully it will make more sense). I tried this using normal rope and it seems to work.

Knowing this is it concivable that you could prusic up a rope using only the free end of the climbing rope via the following method?

Take the free end of the climbing rope tie it into your harness, tie the prusic above you and then rap the rope below you around your foot stand up move the prusic up and repeat.

Granted you would need enough rope to tie the prusic tie into your harness and foot rap, so it only really applies if you get stuck half way trying to pass knot for example.


tower_climber


May 16, 2011, 11:24 AM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Clicky


altelis


May 16, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Anybody seen the bridge?
I can't seem to find the bridge?
Where's that confounded bridge?!?!



I've got a girl...


dynosore


May 16, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.


majid_sabet


May 16, 2011, 2:10 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

ohh man

do not even cut the rope

just untie the shoe laces and use them as a prussic and have the rope tail shorten (as backup)to your harness as you climb .


csproul


May 16, 2011, 2:14 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

ohh man

do not even cut the rope

just untie the shoe laces and use them as a prussic and have the rope tail shorten (as backup)to your harness as you climb .
I wear velcro shoes.


potreroed


May 16, 2011, 2:21 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

Do you ALWAYS carry a knife?? I do but I don't know if everyone else does.


Partner cracklover


May 16, 2011, 3:02 PM
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Re: [csproul] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

ohh man

do not even cut the rope

just untie the shoe laces and use them as a prussic and have the rope tail shorten (as backup)to your harness as you climb .
I wear velcro shoes.

Just velcro up the rope then. Velcro as ascender. Be sure to tie back-up knots, though. Velcro has been known to rip off.

GWink


dynosore


May 16, 2011, 3:38 PM
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Re: [potreroed] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

Do you ALWAYS carry a knife?? I do but I don't know if everyone else does.

I do always have a knife, and if I could type that would have said "extremely UNlikely". I do always have a few slings available.


billl7


May 16, 2011, 7:09 PM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Looks like something to use when you're desperate. Who-boy that's barely got holding power slipping so easily. Wonder how it performs under full body weight instead of half.


socalclimber


May 16, 2011, 7:34 PM
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Re: [billl7] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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I know I don't want to find out...


healyje


May 17, 2011, 12:22 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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It's entirely plausible. I forgot my harness one day the season before last and went out to do a two pitch 5.10. I ended up leading it tied into the end of the rope, hip belayed my second, and rapped it with a biner brake while using one end of the rope as a harness. Old school, but still works fine in a pinch.


squierbypetzl
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May 17, 2011, 1:01 AM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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I remember reading that friction knots work best with different diameter ropes. I'm too lazy to go get my rope and test it right now though, so pinch of salt and all that.

I usually prefer klemheists over prussics. They're unidirectional, meaning that it only grabs the rope of loaded in 1 direction (prussics are bi). I use'em a bunch when teaching people how to belay/lower on toprope.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmWzO3suOOk

dunno why the vids in spanish


(This post was edited by squierbypetzl on May 17, 2011, 1:16 AM)


Partner devkrev


May 17, 2011, 1:13 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

Do you ALWAYS carry a knife?? I do but I don't know if everyone else does.

If I learned anything from the Eiger Sanction and Vertical Limit, its that you should always carry a knife.

I carry one in a small pocket on my chalkbag, which I attach to myself with a few feet or prussik cord, that way I can remember to bring a bail kit without having to remember to bring a bail kit.

I do look funny ice climbing with a chalk bag though Tongue


Rudmin


May 17, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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I've tried with some small diameter cord and I've never had any success tying a prussik around a cord of the same diameter at itself. It just slips. It could work if you had double ropes, or maybe some really soft rope.


tower_climber


May 17, 2011, 2:55 PM
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Re: [Dawirdo] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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This technique is much more common in arborist circles where they have a rope thrown over a crotch in the tree and tied off to their harness. Google body thrust climbing to see what they do with that setup.

I could see using this in a worst-case scenario where you have no other gear with which to self-rescue. Though in all honesty, I'd probably rather use a taut-line hitch with the tail of my harness knot. It doesn't require, cutting off a piece of rope, tying loops on the ends of the rope section or clipping in to a carabiner.


(This post was edited by tower_climber on May 17, 2011, 3:00 PM)


billl7


May 17, 2011, 4:11 PM
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Re: [healyje] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
It's entirely plausible. I forgot my harness one day the season before last and went out to do a two pitch 5.10. I ended up leading it tied into the end of the rope, hip belayed my second, and rapped it with a biner brake while using one end of the rope as a harness. Old school, but still works fine in a pinch.

I think you are referring to fashioning a harness out of the climbing rope rather than the subject of this thread.

By the way, I'm a fan of the method you posted awhile back for using the rope as a harness.

Bill L


snoboy


May 18, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Re: [billl7] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Prusiks do not work well (at all?) with same size rope, but there are other knots that do. Examples are Blake's hitch, and tautline hitch. As mentioned above, arbourists do this sort of thing all the time.


suprasoup


May 18, 2011, 2:53 PM
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Re: [csproul] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
dynosore wrote:
..if, in some extremely likely scenario, I had no slings or cords whatoever, I'd cut a few feet off the end of the rope and voila.

ohh man

do not even cut the rope

just untie the shoe laces and use them as a prussic and have the rope tail shorten (as backup)to your harness as you climb .
I wear velcro shoes.
Use your hair thenWink


healyje


May 19, 2011, 2:47 PM
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Re: [billl7] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
healyje wrote:
It's entirely plausible. I forgot my harness one day the season before last and went out to do a two pitch 5.10. I ended up leading it tied into the end of the rope, hip belayed my second, and rapped it with a biner brake while using one end of the rope as a harness. Old school, but still works fine in a pinch.

I think you are referring to fashioning a harness out of the climbing rope rather than the subject of this thread.

By the way, I'm a fan of the method you posted awhile back for using the rope as a harness.

Bill L

I was speaking to the OP's scenario when I said it was entirely plausible, then went rambling off on an unrelated 'raw rope' story. Sorry. But as TowerClimber states, and any arborist could tell you, using a long tail on your knot allows you to do just this sort of thing and, yes, it works fine with same-diameter cords.


irrational


May 22, 2011, 7:18 AM
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Re: [healyje] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Most closed system friction hitches don't work well on dynamic rope. Arborist rope is 16 strand static static rope and handles very differently because it does not change shape much under load.


I've got it to work with the dynamic line but its really unpredictable, it will lock up or be wide open.


healyje


May 22, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Re: [irrational] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Use more wraps or do a different knot - it works fine.


irrational


May 22, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Re: [healyje] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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Not really I've tested it out on a 60 foot tree, it worked badly. You can add more wraps or tie a blakes hitch but it still does not give consistent performance and is prone to locking up. Even using a open system with a schwabish or VT you still have the problem of the rope changing shape under load arborist lines do not change shape (much) under load.


healyje


May 22, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Re: [irrational] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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I'm an ex-arborist and roofer and have used my climbing ropes extensively in both, have never had a problem, what are you using a sub-10mm of some sort.


irrational


May 22, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Re: [healyje] Self rescue using only the climbing rope? [In reply to]
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I'm an arborist too! :D
The only thing I can think of is that it was a new-ish 10.5 line but even my old . I wanted to use it as a long lanyard / short second line for working storm damaged stuff. How fuzzy is your climbing line ? Laugh

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