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climb_for_life
May 25, 2011, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2011
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So i am about to buy some more camalots and came across the rock empire axel cams. They look pretty sweet and save me a little extra money. I researched online and couldnt find a single review for them and cant get ahold of one myself without buying it first so i was wondering has anyone tried these out and if so what did u think of them all reviews welcome
Thanks in advance
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ncrockclimber
May 25, 2011, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2006
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You might want to check out Wired Bliss if you are looking for an inexpensive alternative to Camalots. Opinions on who makes the best cam and the pros / cons of different designs are numerous. However, I have yet to hear anyone say anything negative about Wired Bliss. You can form your own opinion after a few searches one here, Supertopo and MP.
Good luck with your purchase.
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climb_for_life
May 26, 2011, 5:10 PM
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Thanks for the reference but i am really just looking to hear from people who have used the rock empire axle cams and trying to figure out if they would recommend them
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mats.isaksson
May 27, 2011, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2009
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I´ve actually not tried them out, but for reference I´d just like to say that I never heard anyone recommend RE-cams for other than economical reasons. And the people that once did recommend them all moved on to better cams... If I remember correctly the range is a bit less than on the C4´s.
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maldaly
May 27, 2011, 9:55 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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When I had Trango we used Rock Empire as our source for the FlexCams. The quality was always perfect and their performance always exceeded the specs. They were a pleasure to deal with. We switched our manufacturer about 6-7 years ago because they weren't able to change the spec on the axle lengths in the larger sizes. From hand-size and up, the axles were too short compared to the head size so they weren't as stable as they could have been. The new FlexCam manufacturer was willing to calibrate the axle length with the cam size, making them stable through the range.
These look like pretty direct Camalot copies, not surprising since the Camalot double axle went off patent a few years ago. I see a couple of improvements: The double sling is huge and is something that BD can't do given their choice of cable material. The other improvement is the bigger cables on the REs will be more flexible then the C4 cables (I think) and also allows a single layer of webbing to go to spec strength. From the photo on the RE website, it looks like they're back to the old axle-length tricks, however. Without great photos and full specs I can't be sure but the website photos shows what seems to be a pretty short axle. I'll bet the bigger sizes are pretty unstable.
Climb safe,
Mal
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wlderdude
Jun 2, 2011, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
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maldaly wrote: When I had Trango we used Rock Empire as our source for the FlexCams. Mal
Malcom,
So are you no longer with Trango?
I used the old Rock Empire Robots, Trango Flex cams, and a few other pieces made by Huddy Sport when I used to trad climb. That would have been about 10 years ago. It looks like they have expanded their offering a bit, but not mixed things up much. The ones I used are not as nice as those made by the big boys, but they work fine.
If you are on a budget sometimes you have to choose between a few premium pieces or a set of cheaper ones. Good luck with your decision.
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patto
Jun 2, 2011, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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wlderdude wrote: Malcom, So are you no longer with Trango?
mats.isaksson wrote: If I remember correctly the range is a bit less than on the C4´s.
On course granite this isn't a problem but on smoother rock it can be. Locally I know of at least 3 incidents of C4 cams skating out of cracks that other cams have held fine in.
Anybody can make a cam with a large range if they choose to forgo holding power.
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