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devkrev
Apr 11, 2011, 11:40 PM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
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cracklover wrote: devkrev wrote: johnwesely wrote: iamtacos wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful. *Flame suit on* So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear... I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive. Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E. dev FYI, just so you know, this is not universal. I climbed at the Gunks for nearly ten years, and always brought my hexes with me. Unlike many climbers, I did not bring doubles in cams. I preferred to cover that range with hexes. However, in climbs at 5.9 and up, I found that hexes had much less utility. At 5.9, I'd only want them about half the time, and above that, only rarely. GO
A great thing about climbing is that words like "always" and "never" almost always never apply.
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ckirkwood9
Apr 18, 2011, 6:56 PM
Post #27 of 36
(4757 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 262
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My rack (admittedly a little large but I’m a gear ho)
* aliens: black - yellow (yes many don't trust them, but a good many gunks climbers still use them OH and many don't like the larger sizes... i have them but rarely place them)
* black diamond camalots: .3-4 (fav piece YELLOW - it saved me on a 30-foot whipper in Vegas when a hold broke)
* standard set of nuts - i have BD.
* 4 lockers for setting up anchors or crux placements where unclipping would be detrimental
* 10-12 extendable trad draws (i used camp nanos on both ends with 24" mammut slings)
* 2 extendable trad draws (lockers on both ends with 48" mammut slings)
* an extra red mammut sling (not sure of size)
* 20' cordalette for building anchors
The pieces i use most in the gunks are the small aliens and the camalots up to size 1, occasionally the larger sizes will come in handy though. I know a lot of gunkies like tri-cams, they're not for me though. I've heard it said that they're great for those placements where NOTHING else will work.
Have fun dropping into the rabbit hole of gear ~
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rangerrob
Apr 18, 2011, 10:12 PM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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Your rack doesn;t seem overly large. There are a lto of people out there climbing with a double set of cams in the Gunks. I'm talking from black alien sized right on through gold or blue camalot sized. Plus 2 or three tri-cams, nuts. Now that's a lot.
I tennd to carry more slings, but that's because I am frequently scared and I place a lot of gear. I carry around 14 tripled slings, and a 4 footer over the shoulder. Most times I have left over, but it SUUUUCKS running out of slings and having to use nuts and tri-cams as slings.
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esander4
Apr 18, 2011, 10:32 PM
Post #29 of 36
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Registered: Nov 8, 2010
Posts: 245
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ckirkwood9 wrote: My rack (admittedly a little large but I’m a gear ho) * aliens: black - yellow (yes many don't trust them, but a good many gunks climbers still use them OH and many don't like the larger sizes... i have them but rarely place them) * black diamond camalots: .3-4 (fav piece YELLOW - it saved me on a 30-foot whipper in Vegas when a hold broke) * standard set of nuts - i have BD. * 4 lockers for setting up anchors or crux placements where unclipping would be detrimental * 10-12 extendable trad draws (i used camp nanos on both ends with 24" mammut slings) * 2 extendable trad draws (lockers on both ends with 48" mammut slings) * an extra red mammut sling (not sure of size) * 20' cordalette for building anchors The pieces i use most in the gunks are the small aliens and the camalots up to size 1, occasionally the larger sizes will come in handy though. I know a lot of gunkies like tri-cams, they're not for me though. I've heard it said that they're great for those placements where NOTHING else will work. Have fun dropping into the rabbit hole of gear ~
Yeah that's not a large rack, that's more of a standard rack.
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joeforte
May 26, 2011, 3:40 AM
Post #30 of 36
(4535 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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My Gunks rack:
1 each Black-grey Aliens
1 each .75-2 BD Camalots
4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4")
1 set of nuts
1/2 set of offset nuts
pink and red tricams
8 24" slings (trad-draw style)
3 48" slings
1 72" sling
2 15' lengths of 7mm cord
I used to carry doubles of cams, and a #3 and 4, but I rarely used them. I leave them home and bring the 4 hexes and 1/2 set of offsets instead. Much lighter less bulky. Cheaper to bail on too, if you ever had to.
If you want to buy trad gear, first start with a set of nuts. They are the most important piece of any trad rack. Then you can pick up some 24" and 48" slings. You can lead a lot of easy trad routes with just nuts and slings. Later you will add cams. First, try out a bunch and see what you like best.
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joeforte
May 26, 2011, 3:51 AM
Post #31 of 36
(4534 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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devkrev wrote: johnwesely wrote: iamtacos wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful. *Flame suit on* So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear... I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive. Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E. dev
I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you hear my cowbells and realize I'm on a .12.
On hard, pumpy routes, I'd much rather have a few light hexes as doubles or big gear than those heavy C4s. Don't get me wrong, I love the C4's, but they weight a ton. I only carry 3: .75, 1 and 2.
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devkrev
May 26, 2011, 8:18 AM
Post #32 of 36
(4512 views)
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
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joeforte wrote: devkrev wrote: johnwesely wrote: iamtacos wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: IMO, don't waste your money on tricams or hexes. And buy the #3 camalot last. The grey DW guide usually mentions when the #3 is useful. *Flame suit on* So you are suggesting dispensing with the larger passive pro altogether? That seems to go against the majority opinion, not to mention loosing all sizing redundancy and the benefit of lighter weight (and substantially cheaper) passive gear... I can't imagine that carrying hexes has been the majority opinion since I have been alive. Hexes are good to carry at the gunks, they identify you as a visitor/new climber, so people know when to give you directions to High E. dev I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you hear my cowbells and realize I'm on a .12. On hard, pumpy routes, I'd much rather have a few light hexes as doubles or big gear than those heavy C4s. Don't get me wrong, I love the C4's, but they weight a ton. I only carry 3: .75, 1 and 2.
I love guys like you. Nothing better than seeing the look on your face when you spray about how hard you climb on the internet and realize it means nothing 
I don't climb hard pumpy routes, I'm too weak.
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sp115
May 26, 2011, 2:29 PM
Post #33 of 36
(4486 views)
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515
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joeforte wrote: My Gunks rack: 1 each Black-grey Aliens 1 each .75-2 BD Camalots 4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4") 1 set of nuts 1/2 set of offset nuts pink and red tricams 8 24" slings (trad-draw style) 3 48" slings 1 72" sling 2 15' lengths of 7mm cord
May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?
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msaks
May 26, 2011, 9:48 PM
Post #34 of 36
(4452 views)
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Registered: Aug 14, 2003
Posts: 24
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sp115 wrote: joeforte wrote: My Gunks rack: 1 each Black-grey Aliens 1 each .75-2 BD Camalots 4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4") 1 set of nuts 1/2 set of offset nuts pink and red tricams 8 24" slings (trad-draw style) 3 48" slings 1 72" sling 2 15' lengths of 7mm cord May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?
And no red alien/purple camalot size piece? Not as essential as a green or yellow alien size cam but nevertheless seems like a significant gap in pro.
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joeforte
May 26, 2011, 11:57 PM
Post #35 of 36
(4435 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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sp115 wrote: joeforte wrote: My Gunks rack: 1 each Black-grey Aliens 1 each .75-2 BD Camalots 4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4") 1 set of nuts 1/2 set of offset nuts pink and red tricams 8 24" slings (trad-draw style) 3 48" slings 1 72" sling 2 15' lengths of 7mm cord May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for?
So I don't have to use up a 48 and a 24 when I need a long extension, slinging long trees, far away anchor point, etc. It is dyneema so it take up little space, weights practically nothing, and does not stretch (which is good for that far away anchor point)
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joeforte
May 27, 2011, 12:08 AM
Post #36 of 36
(4434 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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msaks wrote: sp115 wrote: joeforte wrote: My Gunks rack: 1 each Black-grey Aliens 1 each .75-2 BD Camalots 4 hexes, torque nuts to be exact (1"-4") 1 set of nuts 1/2 set of offset nuts pink and red tricams 8 24" slings (trad-draw style) 3 48" slings 1 72" sling 2 15' lengths of 7mm cord May I humbly inquire as to what you use the 72" sling for? And no red alien/purple camalot size piece? Not as essential as a green or yellow alien size cam but nevertheless seems like a significant gap in pro.
The grey alien and purple C4 are close enough in my book. If you look up the stats, there is no gap. Green C4 covers down to .95, grey alien up to 1.2. Plus I carry pink and red tricam, which cover that range as well.
Grey alien= .68-1.2
Purple C4= .77-1.3
Green C4= .95-1.61
Like I said, I used to carry doubles in cams, and big cams, overlapping pieces, etc.. Now that I am more experienced, I prefer multi-purpose gear, with more variety and less quantity. I never feel like I am lacking pro.
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