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davidkarkut


Jan 2, 2003, 9:23 AM
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Planning JT vacation - need some advice/instruction/help  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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First posting here, so forgive newbie gaffs...

Dave and Dawn here. My wife and I are looking at a JT visit (2-3 days?) in early March '03. We've been indoor climbing in Vancouver, BC for 2-3 yrs and can comfortably do routes in the 5.10 to 5.11- range (Dawn can do 11s). Here's the catch: we want to move to outdoor climbing on a CA/JT vacation but have little/no anchor setting knowledge and no trad climbing/protection experience. We do have our own rope and quickclips (10), though.

It would be great to join up with some local climbers (a couple or just good folk) who could help us make the jump to real rock. Failing that, we'd appreciate having info about a course/guide service that would get us safely high (without too hard a $ hit, as the Canadian/US exchange is brutal).

Thanks in advance for any help!


Partner artm


Jan 2, 2003, 9:30 AM
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Joshua Tree Rock Climbing school and Vertical Adventures both operate out of J-Tree and I believe they have classes that should suit you.


i.karen
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Jan 2, 2003, 9:31 AM
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Well, If Adam and I were home by then we would be happy to take you around. We are in Maryland and will be here till end of May. But we have some great friends who would probably be out there around that time. But just post in the West Coast Forum for any takers.

Karen


marknd


Jan 2, 2003, 9:36 AM
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Although mainly a trad spot, I believe JT has plenty of bolted routes as well. I haven't been out there yet, but I have the Vogel guide book. I live a few hours away, so feel free to email me before you come down.


i.karen
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Jan 2, 2003, 9:41 AM
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J-Tree has some sport and Top-roping but you still need to know how to set up anchors. The sport routes are run out, most of them. Better to hook up with someone or hire a guide.


full-time-climb
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Jan 2, 2003, 9:45 AM
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Welcome to RC.com...Seems as though you are doing it right. Find someone you trust or a guide. Don't go it on your own. Bad can happen. Have fun! JTree is great.
John


marknd


Jan 2, 2003, 9:52 AM
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what does "run out" mean?


fo_d


Jan 2, 2003, 10:00 AM
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Also it seems that many of the bolted routes are slabs (and runout as i.karen said) and many people including myself who dont live around granite dont really do well on slabs, so it could be a 5.8 but feel 5.10.

I'm positive if you keep posting and asking questions, you'll find someone to show you around.

Les

Adam & Karen, its a shame we wont get to see you in April when Dan and I do J-tree, but we wont be able to wait any longer and our local climbing is in full swing come May, so maybe next time.

Runout = a long distance between bolts

[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2003-01-02 10:01 ]


vulgarian


Jan 2, 2003, 10:38 AM
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Joshua Tree is wonderful.

The rock is quartz-monzonite and is quite grainy. This lends to terrific friction. It can also tear up your hands pretty quick if you're cranking hard.

There is too the classic J-Tree top-out which consists of a climb which may begin in the near vertical and then "round-out" at the top. As it rounds out the positive edges seem to disappear into small concave and convex features. It is easy to get sketched here but if you remember the terrific friction you have under your feet you will soon learn to climb through it with little trepidation. This is where a lot of the "run-out" claims are made. Usually as you are topping out at these "rounded-out" terminations to climbs you are well above your last bolt. Of course this just adds to the pucker factor. Remember again, this is Josh and the friction is amazing.

It sounds like you guys probably need some gear and instruction. I would recommend one of the aforementioned guide services. They will make your trip more fruitful. The first time my brother and I went there, we just walked around amazed and didn't climb a thing the whole first day.

-edit-

In fact, I would emphatically recommend a guide. They know what to climb (time efficiency), they have thier own gear ($ saved), they are only there for you (steeper learning curve), and they can help in sooooo many other ways, ie. food spots, entertainment (tall tales). I also know fellow Canadian and my own personal hero, Peter Croft guides out there.



[ This Message was edited by: vulgarian on 2003-01-02 10:54 ]

[ This Message was edited by: vulgarian on 2003-01-02 14:42 ]


micronut


Jan 2, 2003, 5:10 PM
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J-Tree is NOT the place to learn how to climb outdoors by yourself!!!


mike


Jan 2, 2003, 5:27 PM
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Give real consideration to a guide. My second day on rock ever was a JT. My partner could climb but had done little leading. We would have completely lost out there. Let them know before hand that you want instruction not to just get pulled up a route. The good guides are happy to do that. As a result I had a blast and am going back next month. (no guide this time).


baldguy


Jan 21, 2003, 10:56 AM
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We're in the same boat as Dave and Dawn. I can easily sport lead .10a indoor, but it all changes once you get outside and the floors aren't padded nor are the bolts pre-clipped. And while I've set up toprope anchors before outside, I'm feeling sketchy about going off on my own in JTree. I've got Vogel's book now, and am methodically going through it in search of topropes, but I'd really love to be able to do a couple sport leads that aren't too runout, so if anybody can recommend anything I'd be grateful (even if it's just 1 or 2 routes). Also, some guidance on gear needed for toprope anchors would be greatly apprecieated.

(Dave/Dawn - we'll be there from Feb. 28th-Mar. 4th ... any interest in splitting a guide if you're there the same dates?)

I can't wait! I was in JTree once before on a non-climbing trip, and I was so jealous every time I some somebody on the rock...

Thanks everybody!


jt512


Jan 21, 2003, 11:21 AM
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Here's a link with some good info about toproping at J Tree: http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/toproping_2.htm

Note that nearly all toproping at Josh involves setting your own equalized TR anchor using trad gear; rarely, are there bolt anchors at the top or boulders you can sling. If you are uncertain of your anchor-building skills, you'll definitely want to hire a guide, take a class, or climb with a more experienced partner. As others have mentioned, both Vertical Adventures and the Joshua Tree Rock Climbing School are top-notch.

Most formations at J Tree have walk-off descents. You can climb the descent route and set up TRs; however, beware that J Tree "walk-offs" usually involve considerable exposure, non-trivial route-finding, and may involve some fifth-class soloing.

As others have mentioned, most bolted routes at Josh are not sport routes. They are lead-bolted trad routes, with bolts which may be spaced 20- to 30-feet apart. However, Josh does have sport routes, too. Most are 5.11 and up. Many are too new to be in any published guide book; however, there is a listing of them at Nomad Ventures, a (very good) climbing shop in the town of Joshua Tree, near the entrance to the Park.

-Jay


azmonsoon


Jan 21, 2003, 3:25 PM
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Adam and Karen,
Go to the Atlantis Wall at Lost Horse. Great top rope practice site. Easy walk up. Nice big bolders to sling to back up your gear. But please be careful. The landing will not be nice if you dirt.


jhwnewengland


Feb 3, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Quote:Adam and Karen,
Go to the Atlantis Wall at Lost Horse

Ha ha, that's funny! Adam and Karen know J-Tree, I assure you!


mike


Feb 3, 2003, 7:24 PM
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My second day on rock was at JT last February, in three guided days I learned a lot about footwork, crack climbing, gear placement, knots, and general safety, extended myself, and had a great time. I'm going back in a few weeks and I will have a guide for a few days, I want to work on escapes and a few other things. If you can afford it, a reputable private guide is a good way to be introduced to rock.


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