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sungam
Jun 4, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Okay, we had the crags a little while ago, but I want to know what the worst "best" route you've done is. I mean one that really has a name for being fantastic, an uber classic - but when you jump on it it doesn't live up to the hype or even just plain sucks.
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lofstromc
Jun 4, 2011, 10:18 PM
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Prince of Darkness at Red Rocks, NV.
Boring
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Tipton
Jun 6, 2011, 8:48 PM
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Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC.
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 6, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Tipton wrote: Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC.
Agreed. Then again, maybe I've just climbed it too many times.
Don't get me wrong... it's a good route. It's just not that good.
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donald949
Jun 6, 2011, 8:59 PM
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Double Cross
*runs for cover and ducks*
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j_ung
Jun 6, 2011, 9:46 PM
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Sometimes, a route becomes classic simply because of its proximity to something really good. Discombobulated at Endless Wall owes all its stars to Legacy, IMO.
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caughtinside
Jun 6, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Hmm, I wouldn't call some classics the worst, but I think hype can diminish the experience on some climbs. You want to be able to talk to your buddies about these famous routes, so you go do them. So does everywhere else. Crowds are my #1 buzzkill personally.
Worst famous routes:
Royal Arches. Fun day, but minimal engaging climbing.
Traveler Buttress. 50 classics can be a killer.
Bear's Reach. Good, but so redonkulously overhyped thanks to that osman speed solo vid. Only the 3rd best 5.7 at the crag.
Illusion Dweller in Josh. Again a great route, but it being the only 5 star crack under 5.11 in the book is overhyping it.
Ro Shampo. Good but overhyped.
Supercrack.
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horseshoe
Jun 6, 2011, 11:39 PM
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j_ung wrote: Tipton wrote: Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC. Or Table Rock in its entirety for that matter. Compare that place to Shortoff or Hawksbill, and it's a wonder it's got any routes on it at all.
In fairness, I have heard a lot of people mention Jim Dandy as a first lead. That makes it popular, but not a classic. It has an easy approach and remains a good place for the beginning leader.
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cfnubbler
Jun 7, 2011, 12:00 AM
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sungam wrote: Okay, we had the crags a little while ago, but I want to know what the worst "best" route you've done is. I mean one that really has a name for being fantastic, an uber classic - but when you jump on it it doesn't live up to the hype or even just plain sucks.
Yellow Spur, Eldo. A bunch of loose (very, very loose in places), only modestly interesting pitches, with two very good ones at the top. I'd give it a star, or two tops, but for a route described as "one of Colorado's most sought after rock climbs" I was completely underwhelmed.
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johnwesely
Jun 7, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Rico Sauve at the New is a total pile.
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lena_chita
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Jun 7, 2011, 1:43 AM
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Vomit Launch or Zebra Seam at Smith.
I may be prejudiced, because my first responce was 'anything at Smith Rock'. I know, nobody agrees with me on that.
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2011, 2:47 AM
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High E
Bear's Reach
The Saigons at NoCo
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dagibbs
Jun 7, 2011, 3:28 AM
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"Steiger" on Punta dell'Albigna in the "Val Masino Alps" or "Bergell" area of the Swiss Alps.
For the area in the valley around Capana Albigna, this was listed as "the" climb to do. Lots of people on it, groups moving quickly doing it as a short-rope simul climb, etc -- all the evidence of a "classic".
I found it to be a decent climb -- there were a couple pretty good pitches -- but I found other climbs in the area more interesting, with better moves, etc. It wasn't a bad climb, but it sure didn't feel like the "best" climb that it was hyped as, and that others seemed to be treating it as.
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justanotherclimber
Jun 7, 2011, 4:26 AM
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Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks- bad rock, shitty pro, and a single redeeming move in the first 200'- above lies mediocre climbing at best. How that thing became a classic is beyond me.
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j_ung
Jun 7, 2011, 10:58 AM
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How about the Original Route on Whitesides? Let's see... A free-solo first pitch that may or may not be the "original" route, more choss than I would wish on my worst enemy and crux moves that are literally a boulder problem, since they're only six feet off a gigantic ledge. Or, if you prefer, you can try to free the bolt ladder higher up, which is nothing but a huge reach. Did I mention it's right off the belay? Have fun with that. Of it's ten pitches, I think I enjoyed two.
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Tipton
Jun 7, 2011, 12:10 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Tipton wrote: Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC. Agreed. Then again, maybe I've just climbed it too many times. Don't get me wrong... it's a good route. It's just not that good.
I'm adding The Great Arch at Stone Mountain also.
There is virtually nothing fun about this route, it is the same move from bottom to top unless you just leave the dihedral and climb the slab up. The fact that someone will be climbing up 20 feet behind your second and you'll climbing 20 feet behind someone else's second just makes it even more crappy.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 7, 2011, 12:21 PM
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devkrev wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: High E... Dang, I was hoping to be the first one to say it.
Me too.
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TarHeelEMT
Jun 7, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Tipton wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: Tipton wrote: Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC. Agreed. Then again, maybe I've just climbed it too many times. Don't get me wrong... it's a good route. It's just not that good. I'm adding The Great Arch at Stone Mountain also. There is virtually nothing fun about this route, it is the same move from bottom to top unless you just leave the dihedral and climb the slab up. The fact that someone will be climbing up 20 feet behind your second and you'll climbing 20 feet behind someone else's second just makes it even more crappy.
Gotta disagree. That's a fun route, even if it is crowded
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kachoong
Jun 7, 2011, 1:01 PM
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The classic route I can't get up... until I end up doing it.
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sandstoned
Jun 7, 2011, 1:21 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Vomit Launch or Zebra Seam at Smith. I may be prejudiced, because my first responce was 'anything at Smith Rock'. I know, nobody agrees with me on that.
Ha. I agree with you. Smith is not as cool as it thinks it is. Zebra-Zion: good, but not that good. I also agree with Sungam- RoShampo is just another sport route at the Red.
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rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 1:25 PM
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I'm actually having a hard time picking a single route. I never expect to be amazed by a route... that's just silly. It's all rock climbing in the end. I have fun every single time I tie in, and I will never ask for anything more.
I think it's lame how many people do routes just so they can say "I did this, it's classic, you HAVE TO DO IT!" If you hear enough people say this you begin to feel inadequate until you've done that route. Well, that is nonsense. A lot of those routes just aren't any better than their neighbors. But most of us (myself included) will still go and do the CLASSIC route, leaving the other excellent routes to locals. In the end it's the routes that are NEXT to the classics that are the most fun, because you're often the only one on it!
All that said, my summer will be full of repeating classic climbs on famous summits. I'm sure at least one of the routes I plan to do would fall into the category of disappointing if I spent the next month reading beta and hearing people talk about how classic the routes are. Instead I'm just going to figure out the closest free place to stay and let the climb speak for itself.
Some of you guys are being a bit harsh though. You have to take things in context.
Jim Dandy, and most of Table Rock, is where beginners and people who climb twice a year go to climb. Of course if you don't fall into one of those groups you will be disappointed.
The Great Arch is the most defining feature on an otherwise blank slab. It's a giant dihedral at like 45 degrees. OF COURSE you do the same move over and over again. Looking up at that climb, did you really think that it was going to give you any surprises? If you want varied slab climbing just walk a few hundred yards to the right.
Supercrack (Luxury Liner) is famous because it was the first known climb of it's kind. It was done on hexes for Christ's sake! Sure there are better climbs just around the corner but how can you go to Indian Creek and NOT do the Supercrack of the Desert?
Ro Shampo is many climbers' first and only 5.12. It's more like an 11b, but who cares? It's got a 10 minute approach, it's wildly overhanging with huge jugs, and it's graded nearly an ENTIRE NUMBER GRADE soft! Sure it's hyped! I guess that doesn't matter anymore though... it's currently off limits (read: CLOSED).
The Yellow Spur? Really? Sure the first few pitches are not memorable but can you really tell me that traversing from under that HUGE roof onto the arete, and then climbing to that exposed summit wasn't fun? Probably not the best route in Colorado, but then that is not what the guide says. It says, very accurately, that The Yellow Spur is "one of Colorado's most sought after rock climbs." And sure it's loose... it's Eldo! Why would you go there and expect anything different?
I can't comment on the Gunks but if and when I climb there I think I will stay away from anything as talked about has High E. I don't think I've ever gone a month without reading about that climb somewhere. It can't be THAT good.
I dunno, I'm a skeptic and usually quite cynical. That leaves the climb to either be as good as I expect or better. I certainly don't ever come down disappointed. The very worst case scenario is that I get to brag to everyone about how many "classics" I've done 
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Gmburns2000
Jun 7, 2011, 1:48 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: devkrev wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: High E... Dang, I was hoping to be the first one to say it. Me too.
HA HA!
Losers.
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sungam
Jun 7, 2011, 2:55 PM
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sandstoned wrote: I also agree with Sungam- RoShampo is just another sport route at the Red.
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