|
cracklover
Jun 7, 2011, 3:00 PM
Post #26 of 69
(3001 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
justanotherclimber wrote: Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks- bad rock, shitty pro, and a single redeeming move in the first 200'- above lies mediocre climbing at best. How that thing became a classic is beyond me.
If you'd said High E, sure. It has one really cool move, followed by a cool 50 feet of climbing. Very good, but not even the best 5.6 in the Gunks.
But Shockley's? Nah, you're nuts. The first pitch is a short forgettable approach pitch, but the rest of the climb is stellar.
I actually can't think of any climbs I've done that I'd put in this category. The closest would probably Burnse's suggestion of the Saigons in NoCo. Except that I don't think they're on anyone's Best list.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
sandstoned
Jun 7, 2011, 3:20 PM
Post #27 of 69
(2989 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 127
|
sungam wrote: sandstoned wrote: I also agree with Sungam- RoShampo is just another sport route at the Red. It was CI that said that. There was a huge queue of bros witing to get on it when I was there.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Jun 7, 2011, 3:28 PM
Post #28 of 69
(2982 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
sandstoned wrote: sungam wrote: sandstoned wrote: I also agree with Sungam- RoShampo is just another sport route at the Red. It was CI that said that. There was a huge queue of bros witing to get on it when I was there. Ah, my bad. Well, you didn't miss too much, at least you got to hang out with some bros, or brahs, or both. Hang dogs is probably a good group name for them I'm guessing...
|
|
|
|
|
redonkulus
Jun 7, 2011, 3:43 PM
Post #29 of 69
(2973 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2010
Posts: 216
|
sungam wrote: sandstoned wrote: sungam wrote: sandstoned wrote: I also agree with Sungam- RoShampo is just another sport route at the Red. It was CI that said that. There was a huge queue of bros witing to get on it when I was there. Ah, my bad. Well, you didn't miss too much, at least you got to hang out with some bros, or brahs, or both. Hang dogs is probably a good group name for them I'm guessing... Actually I missed out on hanging with the bros, I saw the queue and walked on.
Did any of them look like the bros in this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HOUGDOV4x8
Edit: clicky
(This post was edited by redonkulus on Jun 7, 2011, 3:44 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jun 7, 2011, 3:55 PM
Post #30 of 69
(2962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
I may get a lot of flak for this, but I did think of one route that totally felt not-as-good-as-the-hype.
Crimson Crimson Chrysalis. It was a good route, but just not all that. I think maybe I just felt let down by all those bolts everywhere, many of which were next to great gear.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jun 7, 2011, 4:06 PM
Post #31 of 69
(2951 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I think I'd add the Kor-Ingalls. Still an interesting route up a great tower with history, but funky climbing. Isn't it another one of the fifty classics?
|
|
|
|
|
Diphthong
Jun 7, 2011, 4:24 PM
Post #32 of 69
(2941 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
|
Cobra Crack.
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Jun 7, 2011, 5:19 PM
Post #33 of 69
(2909 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
rtwilli4 wrote: The Yellow Spur? Really? Sure the first few pitches are not memorable but can you really tell me that traversing from under that HUGE roof onto the arete, and then climbing to that exposed summit wasn't fun? Probably not the best route in Colorado, but then that is not what the guide says. It says, very accurately, that The Yellow Spur is "one of Colorado's most sought after rock climbs." And sure it's loose... it's Eldo! Why would you go there and expect anything different? quote] Yes, I'm serious. And I didn't say the last two pitches aren't enjoyable (they are). The pitch you're descibing is IMO a total pile except for the last few moves where you actually traverse the roof. A loose, low angle gully, which is how I would describe most of that pitch, is not something I expect to find on a so called mega-classic, in Eldo or anywhere else. In any case, I'm merely offering my opinion, and you are exercising your right to disagree!
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #34 of 69
(2905 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
I just don't remember it being that loose. I know one of the belays was on a ledge w/ a lot of loose stuff, but I remember expecting choss since that's what you always hear about Eldo... and was surprised at how little there was.
Don't get me wrong, it certainly was nothing like the crags we have in the east, but our mountains are so much older and more weathered than the stuff out west that it's not really fair to compare.
Anyways, I didn't really have much expectation for the route I guess, so in the end I thought it was great. But I seem to be having selective memory...
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jun 7, 2011, 5:34 PM
Post #35 of 69
(2898 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
rtwilli4 wrote: I just don't remember it being that loose. I know one of the belays was on a ledge w/ a lot of loose stuff, but I remember expecting choss since that's what you always hear about Eldo... and was surprised at how little there was. Don't get me wrong, it certainly was nothing like the crags we have in the east, but our mountains are so much older and more weathered than the stuff out west that it's not really fair to compare. Anyways, I didn't really have much expectation for the route I guess, so in the end I thought it was great. But I seem to be having selective memory...
The first pitch of Yellow Spur is pretty exciting, too. You have to pull a sort of funky move through a good size roof with gear anywhere from 5 to ten feet below you (depending on what you use or not to avoid drag) with the ground only 25 feet down. It definitely commands attention for a move or three.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 5:43 PM
Post #36 of 69
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
Yea I remember that. My partner led (basically soloed) that pitch. If I had fallen off (how could anyone fall off of those jugs) I would have had a huge, rope cutting fall.
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jun 7, 2011, 6:23 PM
Post #37 of 69
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
rtwilli4 wrote: The Yellow Spur? ... Probably not the best route in Colorado, but then that is not what the guide says. It says, very accurately, that The Yellow Spur is "one of Colorado's most sought after rock climbs." And sure it's loose... it's Eldo! |
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jun 7, 2011, 6:30 PM
Post #38 of 69
(2853 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
You know much better than me. I lived in Steamboat... when I was a ski bum. Other than that I don't know shit about Colorado.
Is it too hot in August for the S. Platte area? When is the best time to go?
|
|
|
|
|
wmfork
Jun 7, 2011, 6:50 PM
Post #39 of 69
(2841 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2006
Posts: 348
|
rtwilli4 wrote: Is it too hot in August for the S. Platte area? When is the best time to go? |
|
|
|
|
edge
Jun 8, 2011, 4:22 PM
Post #40 of 69
(2724 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Here in New Hampshire I nominate:
Reppy's Crack. A crack in a slab, and a boring one at that. It's visual appeal alone has launched a thousand ascents.
The Eaglet. That's a long hike for some uninteresting climbing to a "pinnacle."
Standard Rte on Whitehorse. There are much more interesting routes on the slabs.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jun 8, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #41 of 69
(2718 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
For Arapiles I vote Muldoon... even though if it were at many other crags it would still be classic. There's a lesser-known route of the same grade, and MUCH better, right next to it.
The phenomenon of "adjacency" is common and gives those who know an enjoyable alternative.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jun 8, 2011, 6:23 PM
Post #42 of 69
(2679 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Most of the routes mentioned are still good routes, just perhaps not mind blowing to the people involved.
Kor-Ingalls on Castleton, though, is a stunning pile of shit and is the worst route on the formation by a mile.
|
|
|
|
|
Diphthong
Jun 8, 2011, 6:39 PM
Post #43 of 69
(2670 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
|
kachoong wrote: For Arapiles I vote Muldoon... even though if it were at many other crags it would still be classic. There's a lesser-known route of the same grade, and MUCH better, right next to it.
+1
And just around the corner to the left, Pilot Error. And up the hill on the right, Moby Dick.
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jun 9, 2011, 12:16 AM
Post #44 of 69
(2636 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
edge wrote: Here in New Hampshire I nominate: Reppy's Crack. A crack in a slab, and a boring one at that. It's visual appeal alone has launched a thousand ascents.
By itself, I might tend to agree, but in the context of linking it to Moby, I think it's pretty good. Plus, how many splitter cracks do we have in the northeast?
In reply to: The Eaglet. That's a long hike for some uninteresting climbing to a "pinnacle."
Thanks for the heads up. Not that I would hike that long for 5.7, anyways 
In reply to: Standard Rte on Whitehorse. There are much more interesting routes on the slabs. 
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Jun 9, 2011, 12:19 AM
Post #45 of 69
(2635 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
While we're talking about NH, I nominate Thin Air.
It's a decent route, but certainly is not deserving of all the hype.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
yanqui
Jun 9, 2011, 2:58 AM
Post #47 of 69
(2575 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559
|
Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek and Tribal Boundaries at City of Rocks are two short, mediocre climbs which for some unknown reason often get described as classics.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jun 9, 2011, 3:10 PM
Post #48 of 69
(2532 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
blueeyedclimber wrote: While we're talking about NH, I nominate Thin Air. It's a decent route, but certainly is not deserving of all the hype. Josh
No way. I cannot think of a better beginner climb at that grade in NoCo. And before you say Funhouse, remember that Funhouse has a section that is pretty R rated for leaders who's limit is 5.6.
Full disclosure: Thin Air was my first real lead, so it has a special place because of that, too.
But honestly, after the first 40 feet of climbing, it's all good (and quite varied) the whole rest of the way.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
chilli
Jun 9, 2011, 3:58 PM
Post #50 of 69
(2516 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2007
Posts: 401
|
TarHeelEMT wrote: Tipton wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: Tipton wrote: Jim Dandy - Table Rock NC. Agreed. Then again, maybe I've just climbed it too many times. Don't get me wrong... it's a good route. It's just not that good. I'm adding The Great Arch at Stone Mountain also. There is virtually nothing fun about this route, it is the same move from bottom to top unless you just leave the dihedral and climb the slab up. The fact that someone will be climbing up 20 feet behind your second and you'll climbing 20 feet behind someone else's second just makes it even more crappy. Gotta disagree. That's a fun route, even if it is crowded
i don't think there's anything spectacular about the repetition of the arch, nor do i think it's anywhere near as enjoyable as some of the true stone mountain slab around there. not to mention better views when you get out on top of that giant dihedral feature you're in there.
also, jim dandy has nothing exceptional about it. hell, there's a section like a frekin' sidewalk for a good bit of the route.
but i think in both cases, the quality of the climb for people looking for fun routes in the region is secondary to the facility of access for taking someone new to the area or a gf or friend or early in your leading career or whatever. And it's the access to beginners that makes those routes good.
e.g. white lightning at table, OR just go to hawksbill/ship! Also the great white way, grand funk, or the pulpit are all more fun at stone, but you're not going to lead those first, nor is your gf who's new to trad. thus jim dandy, the arch, etc. become classics for the newbies and a fun experience for you to share with said newbie. and i'm OK with giving them stars for that
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
