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AKboulderer
Jun 15, 2011, 7:50 PM
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I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer
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moose_droppings
Jun 15, 2011, 8:41 PM
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AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts
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surfstar
Jun 15, 2011, 9:04 PM
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AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer $58.49 or 4-13 http://www.alssports.com/...AAKEAKDGMHDP/Product Spend enough to get free shipping
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j_ung
Jun 15, 2011, 10:39 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts <3 Wallnuts and Peanuts
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bearbreeder
Jun 16, 2011, 6:57 AM
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huevos are almost the same as BD stoppers ... just cheaper i prefer DMM offsets myself it all depends on yr preference and where you climb ...
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porthillsclimber
Jun 16, 2011, 8:06 AM
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if you want the best i would go for a set of DMM wallnut and a set of offsets. you will probably pay more for DMM than BD though.
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crw5074
Jun 16, 2011, 9:19 AM
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DMM offsets!
(This post was edited by crw5074 on Jun 16, 2011, 9:19 AM)
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ianwatson
Jun 17, 2011, 1:39 PM
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i have camp, i got them cheap and they work fine.
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rtwilli4
Jun 17, 2011, 3:23 PM
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You can't beat the value of the ABC Huevos. They were my first set of stoppers and I still have them. Get them if you're on a budget. If you're not, go DMM. I've climbed plenty of pitches w/ just the offsets and never really thought "man I wish I had some standard shaped nuts." The Wallnuts also rock, but I've had complaints that they aren't as easy to clean...
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healyje
Jun 17, 2011, 5:30 PM
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In the end it comes down to rock type and competency. Rock type for natural fit to nut geometry; competency for being able to use the advantages of any given [subtle] design feature to its fullest. In the beginning pretty much any of them will work fine for you.
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cellige
Jun 17, 2011, 5:39 PM
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I believe the metolius curve nuts to basically be the perfect nut design. 3 points of contact, straight taper for correct holding friction that is not variable and the ability to fit small flares of varying degree. If only they had some bigger sizes... Cheers!
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Colinhoglund
Jun 17, 2011, 6:23 PM
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Like with most gear it's all about what your used to. I like BD because that is what I and my friends use. I however have one friend who has wallnuts and loves them. Purely because I'm not used to their sizing I prefer BD. However if I really wanted to, I could get used to em and would like them I'm sure. As per best set? Anything with a reasonable amount of curvature on both sides will work fine. There are some strait taper nuts out there, avoid them accept for in the smallest sizes. (ie. Bd 1-3 are strait). Look around at your local crag and see if there is a local favourite.
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deschamps1000
Jun 17, 2011, 7:23 PM
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If this is your first set of nuts don't buy offsets. Eventually you may want them but start with a normal set. That is - as long as your local climbing area is not pinned out.
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kennoyce
Jun 17, 2011, 7:35 PM
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Blue ones, the red ones are better for sport.
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billcoe_
Jun 17, 2011, 10:40 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts Yup. Wallnuts are my personal choices as well. The Wallnuts are the lightest for the size (have the best strength to weight ratio I think), and are tapered one way to fit into offset/tapered cracks very well. However, I like and use the more radically tapered DMM (HB) offsets of all sizes often. Own 2 sets of large and 4 sets of the brass offsets and have on rare times used all of them on some routes before. It was pointed out to me that the Wild Countrys are the best because if you miss the fit, all you have to do is turn it 90 degrees and the larger size is the next size stopper's narrow size. For new folks learning, that is a great feature, plus they are a very good product with excellent taper that you would still enjoy placing even once you are no longer a noob. That being said, the BD and ABC's are everywhere, and your partners will most likely have experience with them. Knowing the color/size correlation can increase your speed of placement and on occasion mean the difference between dropping it in perfect and clipping or pumping out.
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kikitastrophe
Jun 18, 2011, 12:17 PM
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I definitely prefer the wild country rocks - the stopper portion is longer than any other of the nuts leaving more potential for contact and a longer taper... http://www.spadout.com/p/wild-country-rocks-nuts-set/
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phillygoat
Jun 18, 2011, 5:53 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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Agree with the Wild Country recommendation- the longer taper is nice. These and a set of Offsets and you're good to go!
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