|
AKboulderer
Jun 15, 2011, 7:50 PM
Post #1 of 20
(9635 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2011
Posts: 33
|
I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply.
AKboulderer
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Jun 15, 2011, 8:41 PM
Post #3 of 20
(9594 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer
It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts
|
|
|
|
|
surfstar
Jun 15, 2011, 9:04 PM
Post #4 of 20
(9575 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2011
Posts: 206
|
AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer
$58.49 or 4-13 http://www.alssports.com/...AAKEAKDGMHDP/Product
Spend enough to get free shipping
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Jun 15, 2011, 10:39 PM
Post #5 of 20
(9531 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
moose_droppings wrote: AKboulderer wrote: I'm looking at maybe buying some stoppers for trad climbing. The ones i am l'm looking at are the Black Diamond wired stopper set 4/13 for $90. If anybody knows of any better value or any advice at all,please reply. AKboulderer It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts
<3 Wallnuts and Peanuts
|
|
|
|
|
bearbreeder
Jun 16, 2011, 6:57 AM
Post #6 of 20
(9456 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
huevos are almost the same as BD stoppers ... just cheaper
i prefer DMM offsets myself
it all depends on yr preference and where you climb ...
|
|
|
|
|
porthillsclimber
Jun 16, 2011, 8:06 AM
Post #7 of 20
(9442 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2006
Posts: 25
|
if you want the best i would go for a set of DMM wallnut and a set of offsets. you will probably pay more for DMM than BD though.
|
|
|
|
|
crw5074
Jun 16, 2011, 9:19 AM
Post #8 of 20
(9431 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2008
Posts: 7
|
DMM offsets!
(This post was edited by crw5074 on Jun 16, 2011, 9:19 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
ianwatson
Jun 17, 2011, 1:39 PM
Post #9 of 20
(9347 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 66
|
i have camp, i got them cheap and they work fine.
|
|
|
|
|
rtwilli4
Jun 17, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #10 of 20
(9317 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
|
You can't beat the value of the ABC Huevos. They were my first set of stoppers and I still have them. Get them if you're on a budget.
If you're not, go DMM. I've climbed plenty of pitches w/ just the offsets and never really thought "man I wish I had some standard shaped nuts." The Wallnuts also rock, but I've had complaints that they aren't as easy to clean...
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jun 17, 2011, 5:30 PM
Post #11 of 20
(9296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
In the end it comes down to rock type and competency. Rock type for natural fit to nut geometry; competency for being able to use the advantages of any given [subtle] design feature to its fullest. In the beginning pretty much any of them will work fine for you.
|
|
|
|
|
cellige
Jun 17, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #12 of 20
(9290 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2010
Posts: 14
|
I believe the metolius curve nuts to basically be the perfect nut design. 3 points of contact, straight taper for correct holding friction that is not variable and the ability to fit small flares of varying degree. If only they had some bigger sizes...
Cheers!
|
|
|
|
|
Colinhoglund
Jun 17, 2011, 6:23 PM
Post #13 of 20
(9273 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2008
Posts: 338
|
Like with most gear it's all about what your used to. I like BD because that is what I and my friends use. I however have one friend who has wallnuts and loves them. Purely because I'm not used to their sizing I prefer BD. However if I really wanted to, I could get used to em and would like them I'm sure.
As per best set? Anything with a reasonable amount of curvature on both sides will work fine. There are some strait taper nuts out there, avoid them accept for in the smallest sizes. (ie. Bd 1-3 are strait). Look around at your local crag and see if there is a local favourite.
|
|
|
|
|
deschamps1000
Jun 17, 2011, 7:23 PM
Post #14 of 20
(9255 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 343
|
If this is your first set of nuts don't buy offsets. Eventually you may want them but start with a normal set.
That is - as long as your local climbing area is not pinned out.
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Jun 17, 2011, 7:35 PM
Post #15 of 20
(9249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
Blue ones, the red ones are better for sport.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 17, 2011, 10:40 PM
Post #16 of 20
(9185 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
moose_droppings wrote: It comes down to personal opinion, and mine is DMM Wallnuts
Yup. Wallnuts are my personal choices as well. The Wallnuts are the lightest for the size (have the best strength to weight ratio I think), and are tapered one way to fit into offset/tapered cracks very well. However, I like and use the more radically tapered DMM (HB) offsets of all sizes often. Own 2 sets of large and 4 sets of the brass offsets and have on rare times used all of them on some routes before.
It was pointed out to me that the Wild Countrys are the best because if you miss the fit, all you have to do is turn it 90 degrees and the larger size is the next size stopper's narrow size. For new folks learning, that is a great feature, plus they are a very good product with excellent taper that you would still enjoy placing even once you are no longer a noob.
That being said, the BD and ABC's are everywhere, and your partners will most likely have experience with them. Knowing the color/size correlation can increase your speed of placement and on occasion mean the difference between dropping it in perfect and clipping or pumping out.
|
|
|
|
|
kikitastrophe
Jun 18, 2011, 12:17 PM
Post #17 of 20
(9117 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2009
Posts: 25
|
I definitely prefer the wild country rocks - the stopper portion is longer than any other of the nuts leaving more potential for contact and a longer taper...
http://www.spadout.com/p/wild-country-rocks-nuts-set/
|
|
|
|
|
phillygoat
Jun 18, 2011, 5:53 PM
Post #18 of 20
(9075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
|
Agree with the Wild Country recommendation- the longer taper is nice.
These and a set of Offsets and you're good to go!
|
|
|
|
|
|
